Just make sure you crank the filter down extra hard on the mount. Silicone acts a bit different than nitrile or rubber. It's very slick and you may think it's tight, but it will also relax after a few heat cycles. I go back to mine after a few hundred miles and give them an extra little spin. Maybe 1/8 turn. Sometimes they are still tight and sometimes I get a little spin on them. The silicone is very heat resistant and pliable though.
Burst strength is 625 psi. It's about as high as spin on filters go, if not the highest. Fram HP1 I believe is 500, K&N 550, wix 51515R 500, so on and so forth. Seems silly and overkill but it translates to impact and puncture resistance as well.
If you can't already tell, I'm partial to the FRPP filter, though I will also use K&N. Not a big fan of the K&N HP-3001 lately though, as it seems they are all built a bit differently depending on age and country of manufacture. The K&N HP-1010 that I use on [censored] (funny that the shortened version of "Japanese" is censored) stuff always looks exactly the same. The HP-3001 does not. Some even have the bypass at opposite ends. Some dome, some base end. The Fram HP1 is very comparable to a dome end bypass K&N, and I would use one if I didn't care where my bypass was located, but alas, I am a stickler for a thread end bypass on Fords. The criteria for my Ford filters include;
-.020" shell
-silicone ADBV
-thread end bypass
-blend or synth media
-thick tapping plate
FRPP filter checks these boxes plus the silicone gasket. Cost doesn't matter to me, if anyone was wondering. I have a K&N screwed onto my Marauder at the moment, just to use it up since I sold the car it was going on. (Ford Freestyle) but have another FRPP 820S on deck.
