Best Choice for EXTREME Cold
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Originally Posted By: volk06
QSUD 5w-30 has an MRV that is almost the same as M1 0W-30, a higher VI, and is quite a bit cheaper!
12,800 QSUD @35
13,250 M1 @40
That is impressive but keep in mind that a rather large increase can occur from -35 to -40 C.
QSUD 5w-30 has an MRV that is almost the same as M1 0W-30, a higher VI, and is quite a bit cheaper!
12,800 QSUD @35
13,250 M1 @40
That is impressive but keep in mind that a rather large increase can occur from -35 to -40 C.
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Originally Posted By: volk06
QSUD 5w-30 has an MRV that is almost the same as M1 0W-30, a higher VI, and is quite a bit cheaper!
12,800 QSUD @35
13,250 M1 @40
Notice that the 5w30 is at -35 and not -40 like the M1. At -40, the QSUD will be a lot heavier. You'd be surprised how much of a difference 5 degrees makes.
QSUD 5w-30 has an MRV that is almost the same as M1 0W-30, a higher VI, and is quite a bit cheaper!
12,800 QSUD @35
13,250 M1 @40
Notice that the 5w30 is at -35 and not -40 like the M1. At -40, the QSUD will be a lot heavier. You'd be surprised how much of a difference 5 degrees makes.
For instance, Petro Canada lists pumping viscosity for their Duron Synthetic 5w40 at two temperatures:
23,320 @ -35C
47,864 @ -40C
The viscosity doubled at only 5C lower temperature.
PC also lists Duron Syn 0w30 on the same data sheet; its cold pumping viscosity is 17,456 @ -40C.
PC's Supreme Synthetic passenger car 0w30 has a cold pumping viscosity of 24,800 @ -40C. It's interesting that their HDEO has better cold pumpability than their pass car oil.
23,320 @ -35C
47,864 @ -40C
The viscosity doubled at only 5C lower temperature.
PC also lists Duron Syn 0w30 on the same data sheet; its cold pumping viscosity is 17,456 @ -40C.
PC's Supreme Synthetic passenger car 0w30 has a cold pumping viscosity of 24,800 @ -40C. It's interesting that their HDEO has better cold pumpability than their pass car oil.
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How about Royal Purple's 0W-10 racing oil??
It is probably the thinnest you can find.
It is probably the thinnest you can find.
look at MRV spec, which is a measure of how the oil pumps at cold temps. Pour point doesn't really mean that much.
Mobil1 0W20 has the lowest resistance to flow at really cold temps, at least among oils I've seen (and for which specs are listed). Yeah, your vehicle specs 5W30, but unless you're doing heavy towing or extended mountain driving, the thinner viscosity isn't going to be an issue. It's actually thicker than many 5W20's in operation.
What sort of use will the vehicle see, anyway?
Mobil1 0W20 has the lowest resistance to flow at really cold temps, at least among oils I've seen (and for which specs are listed). Yeah, your vehicle specs 5W30, but unless you're doing heavy towing or extended mountain driving, the thinner viscosity isn't going to be an issue. It's actually thicker than many 5W20's in operation.
What sort of use will the vehicle see, anyway?
I would say Mobil AFE ow or AMSOIL 0w but then i heard that Toyota has a very thin oil as well so it may be worth looking into.,
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
wow how do people sleep through -40 ????
Sleeping in -40 is easy. It's getting out of bed and out of the house that's the hard part.
For oil, if there's concern it's going to be outside and have some unaided starts, I'd be going to something like PC 0w-30 synthetic or Delvac Elite HDEO or something in that range. The PC 0w-30 is SN/GF-5 if it matters.
I have done a lot of unaided starts, however, in such temperatures using 5w-30 conventional when I had my Town Car. More recently, the vehicles are always in a heated shop.
The issue with the Town Car, however, was that it was in mechanically great shape. Problems with fuel injection or a marginal battery just make things worse. A synthetic 0w-30 can give that extra bit of cushion, and probably help one sleep better at night.
However, I certainly haven't spun a bearing or had an engine explode on me in a cold morning. The most common noise I hear is actually the PS pump groaning from the cold.
I have a video or two of a few years ago when we got some COLD weather. There were some -35 starts on my old Taurus with conventional 5w30.
It took about 10 tries to get the starter to engage and then it sounded like an old diesel turning over and trying to start.
When it did start (or stay running without me trying to start it), I got an oil light for a few seconds and the sound of the PS pump woke the neighbors up I'm pretty sure.
15 minutes later when I went to leave, the trans fluid was so thick the car couldn't move. Ended up having to wait about 20 minutes before I could get the car to move.
I've also had the same experience in a F350 with gear oil in the trans. Started up fine, let out the clutch with it in neutral and it stalled. Also, being a very cold blooded ZF5 - it had only one gear - 3rd.
Both vehicles in this extreme cold the brakes were ... useless. They just didn't want to work. Heaters are ... useless as well and just blow cold air.
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
wow how do people sleep through -40 ????
Sleeping in -40 is easy. It's getting out of bed and out of the house that's the hard part.
For oil, if there's concern it's going to be outside and have some unaided starts, I'd be going to something like PC 0w-30 synthetic or Delvac Elite HDEO or something in that range. The PC 0w-30 is SN/GF-5 if it matters.
I have done a lot of unaided starts, however, in such temperatures using 5w-30 conventional when I had my Town Car. More recently, the vehicles are always in a heated shop.
The issue with the Town Car, however, was that it was in mechanically great shape. Problems with fuel injection or a marginal battery just make things worse. A synthetic 0w-30 can give that extra bit of cushion, and probably help one sleep better at night.
However, I certainly haven't spun a bearing or had an engine explode on me in a cold morning. The most common noise I hear is actually the PS pump groaning from the cold.
I have a video or two of a few years ago when we got some COLD weather. There were some -35 starts on my old Taurus with conventional 5w30.
It took about 10 tries to get the starter to engage and then it sounded like an old diesel turning over and trying to start.
When it did start (or stay running without me trying to start it), I got an oil light for a few seconds and the sound of the PS pump woke the neighbors up I'm pretty sure.
15 minutes later when I went to leave, the trans fluid was so thick the car couldn't move. Ended up having to wait about 20 minutes before I could get the car to move.
I've also had the same experience in a F350 with gear oil in the trans. Started up fine, let out the clutch with it in neutral and it stalled. Also, being a very cold blooded ZF5 - it had only one gear - 3rd.
Both vehicles in this extreme cold the brakes were ... useless. They just didn't want to work. Heaters are ... useless as well and just blow cold air.
I can't believe people haven't backed me up on the snowmobile oil suggestion...
Originally Posted By: dparm
I can't believe people haven't backed me up on the snowmobile oil suggestion...
Provide the MRV @ -40 and then we'll talk.
I can't believe people haven't backed me up on the snowmobile oil suggestion...
Provide the MRV @ -40 and then we'll talk.
Originally Posted By: Miller88
When it did start (or stay running without me trying to start it), I got an oil light for a few seconds and the sound of the PS pump woke the neighbors up I'm pretty sure.
15 minutes later when I went to leave, the trans fluid was so thick the car couldn't move. Ended up having to wait about 20 minutes before I could get the car to move.
That pretty much mirrors my experiences, although starting itself was never so bad (in a gasser, anyhow, LPG is different). The power steering pumps and AT suffer in that cold, for sure. It's a little impractical to put heaters on everything, though.
When it did start (or stay running without me trying to start it), I got an oil light for a few seconds and the sound of the PS pump woke the neighbors up I'm pretty sure.
15 minutes later when I went to leave, the trans fluid was so thick the car couldn't move. Ended up having to wait about 20 minutes before I could get the car to move.
That pretty much mirrors my experiences, although starting itself was never so bad (in a gasser, anyhow, LPG is different). The power steering pumps and AT suffer in that cold, for sure. It's a little impractical to put heaters on everything, though.
I'd run Mobil 1 0w30 or 20 if it meets GM specs, and I would just leave it running all night if you can't plug in.
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Ellison AFB, Fairbanks, AK.....had a heat wave this last summer when I was in AK. The temps in Fairbanks and North Pole, AK are the warmest in Alaska during the summer but they are the coldest because of their elevation and they are far inland. The "Wind Chill" coming from the North must be brutal.
Now it is dark.....24 Hours a day....with no warm up. You've got to be tough to live in that environment from October to May.
My hat is off to you Kevin.
Now it is dark.....24 Hours a day....with no warm up. You've got to be tough to live in that environment from October to May.
My hat is off to you Kevin.
have you guys tried using something like Redline C+ATF in the power steering res.?
Vis @ 100°C, cSt 7.5
Vis @ 40°C, cSt 32.3
Viscosity Index 213
Pour Point, °C -60
Pour Point, °F -76
Flash Point, °C 222
Flash Point, °F 432
Brookfield Vis @ -40°C, P 38
Vis @ 100°C, cSt 7.5
Vis @ 40°C, cSt 32.3
Viscosity Index 213
Pour Point, °C -60
Pour Point, °F -76
Flash Point, °C 222
Flash Point, °F 432
Brookfield Vis @ -40°C, P 38
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Kevin,
The Pour Point for Amsoil 0w-30 Sig. Series Oil (AZO) is -60F.
I run it in my 5.3L in Northern Minnesota. Last Winter, I ran it for hours at -39 and even went Ice Fishing at Lake of the Woods in it. Engine ran great.
You asked for the best. I recommend it. Scroll down to see the numbers:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/azo.aspx
The Pour Point for Amsoil 0w-30 Sig. Series Oil (AZO) is -60F.
I run it in my 5.3L in Northern Minnesota. Last Winter, I ran it for hours at -39 and even went Ice Fishing at Lake of the Woods in it. Engine ran great.
You asked for the best. I recommend it. Scroll down to see the numbers:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/azo.aspx
As others mentioned the pour point is not telling the whole story. I'd use a 0w20, either Honda's, Toyota's, or Mobil 1 AFE.
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