Just for clarity this is what I use as my go to one man break bleeder. The MSRP is now about $13. It always works and does not make a mess.
I used an industrial very high quality vacuum pump to try and bleed my brakes (used stainless steel lines to connect pump). It also did not get all the air out.. Pressure bleeder is flawless every time. I cannot understand why the vac pump didn't work, it doesn't make sense to me.I have this tool and have used it a lot. But sometimes it just can not pull enough suction on some systems. Especially on rear calipers. I have a Lisle one man bleeder tool that I bought 20 years ago for like 5 or 6 bucks. This has become my go to tool for bleeding brakes. It works like speed bleeders but you do not have to buy and install a bleeder on each wheel. I think it is very practical and effective. The Lisle or any bleeder like it gets my endorsement.
I look at it very simply. The vacuum force/pressure generated by the vac pump is not even close to the pressure generated by stepping on the brake pedal. Plus you can get leaks generated at the bleeder valve.I used an industrial very high quality vacuum pump to try and bleed my brakes (used stainless steel lines to connect pump). It also did not get all the air out.. Pressure bleeder is flawless every time. I cannot understand why the vac pump didn't work, it doesn't make sense to me.
Any ideas?
I knew the valve would be a weak spot so I threaded a stainless steel adaptor in it. I cannot tell you how much of a PTA it was finding an adaptor to fit the valve to the cable.. I actually used IIRC three adaptors to do it.I look at it very simply. The vacuum force/pressure generated by the vac pump is not even close to the pressure generated by stepping on the brake pedal. Plus you can get leaks generated at the bleeder valve.
I could almost always bleed front breaks with my Mighty Vac but some rear breaks were impossible. That extra length of brake line creates a lot more resistance.I knew the valve would be a weak spot so I threaded a stainless steel adaptor in it. I cannot tell you how much of a PTA it was finding an adaptor to fit the valve to the cable.. I actually used IIRC three adaptors to do it.
You're right about the hydraulic pressure, I never thought of that. I believed that a vacuum level in the 10^2 torr range would have been strong enough for it.
This is on Amazon for $8. I normally do gravity bleed but this could be a little faster.Just for clarity this is what I use as my go to one man break bleeder. The MSRP is now about $13. It always works and does not make a mess.
I have used this the most over the years but it didn't work when I was trying to bleed the brakes on my 98 Chevy K3500. I had to have someone pump the brakes from inside to get the fluid flowing.Vacuum Pump
Amazing deals on this Mityvac Vacuum Pump at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.www.harborfreight.com
I have that snap on one. I use it at times not on all my repairs. Works wellHi Guys,
I do have motive bleeder but looking for alternatives …
Has anyone used the Snapon One
Any other suggestions ?
( it must be one person operation )
Bleeding Brembo brakes
Snap-on Store
shop.snapon.com
Thx
I hope you've used it by now and are enjoying it.I bought the Speedi-Bleeder but have not tried it as yet.
I have a motive bleeder and I like it, but I do use the mity vac once in while. For the mity vac, you need to remove the bleeder screws first and wrap Teflon tape around the threads to keep from sucking air past them.I've got a vacuum bleeder but they suck air in around the threads of he bleeder valve so it is really hard to tell if you are getting all the air out. Usually the air in the fluid comes out in bigger bubbles, the air passing the threads is are small bubbles.
Got Brembos too and I just let them gravity bleed.