Best 5w30 Synthetics From Walmart

OVERKILL

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The Best oil would produce the least wear. Just because an oil is longer life doesn't mean less wear or a better oil.
But the reality is that the Long Life Euro oils are the ones that hold up in applications like the aforementioned Honda VCM mills, so in that sense, they are in fact better oils.

On the wear front, well, wear limits are well established in all of the OE approvals, however, if the oil is breaking down and leaving deposits, coking up the rings...etc, you've got more than wear to worry about.
 
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But the reality is that the Long Life Euro oils are the ones that hold up in applications like the aforementioned Honda VCM mills, so in that sense, they are in fact better oils.

On the wear front, well, wear limits are well established in all of the OE approvals, however, if the oil is breaking down and leaving deposits, coking up the rings...etc, you've got more than wear to worry about.
Is that because of the VCM functionality or the engine design itself? I recently put a VCM disabler on my niece's 15 Oddy... I never even heard of such a thing.
 

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Is that because of the VCM functionality or the engine design itself? I recently put a VCM disabler on my niece's 15 Oddy... I never even heard of such a thing.
Yes. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, some engine designs are considerably harder on oils than others. Those designs benefit from a more robust lubricant, which can typically be found carrying the myriad of Euro OEM approvals and designed for extended drain intervals.
 
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Yes. As I mentioned earlier in the thread, some engine designs are considerably harder on oils than others. Those designs benefit from a more robust lubricant, which can typically be found carrying the myriad of Euro OEM approvals and designed for extended drain intervals.
Is the Honda problem the VCM, the engine design or both?
I ask because I disabled the VCM and I am wondering about the engine's viability going forward.
 
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same issue as the OP. those of us with flat tappet cam'd classics have to be careful,or we chance wiping out a camshaft, personally i have been using the lucas classic 10w30 in my 3 classics a 70 chevelle ss 454 "ls 6" 64 gto tripower and a 64 vette just it's costly .
 
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Is the Honda problem the VCM, the engine design or both?
I ask because I disabled the VCM and I am wondering about the engine's viability going forward.

The Honda's pistons are still going up and down even when the pistons were "deactivated;" with them re-activated, as in, all firing without being disabled sometimes, I would think your engine would be just fine.

You've probably done the best thing by disabling VCM. Three different versions..


What's so bad about VCM?
While VCM is a great idea in theory, in practice it has some issues.

During VCM operation, the valves on the disabled cylinders are closed off while the piston continues to move up and down. This creates a vacuum effect in the cylinder, allowing some oil to get sucked past the piston rings into the combustion chamber. This oil continues to collect in the combustion chamber until VCM disengages, at which point the cylinder must burn off the oil before resuming normal operation. This is one way that VCM can cause burning oil.

When VCM is used repeatedly for long periods of time, it can also cause the piston rings to get gummed up with buildup, preventing a good seal and allowing oil to get past the rings into the combustion chamber even when VCM is not operating. This is another way that VCM can cause burning oil.

This oil burning can cause oil fouling of the spark plugs, leading to misfires. The oil burning combined with the misfires will destroy your catalytic converters (not cheap to replace!) over time.

Besides these engine problems, VCM operation also puts stress on the active control engine mounts, causing them to wear out fast. These engine mounts are not cheap. One mount alone (just the part, no labor included) can cost

Simply put, VCM is gambling on your engine for a gain of 1-2 MPG at best. Gas is cheaper than an engine, especially given the very slight MPG difference.
 
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IMBHO 'best' is nothing more than subjectivity... while at WM recently I found a 5 qt jug of Mobil 1 high mileage 5W30 on closeout for $24, so that sums up the best for my use and snagged it.
 

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Is the Honda problem the VCM, the engine design or both?
I ask because I disabled the VCM and I am wondering about the engine's viability going forward.
It's both, but it mostly relates to the VCM. You are right to be concerned, as the Oddy is one of the vehicles affected. @Trav can speak more to the specifics, but these engines will make a mess out of one of the banks and his recommendation has been a more robust oil, based on his experience with them keeping it clean.
 

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same issue as the OP. those of us with flat tappet cam'd classics have to be careful,or we chance wiping out a camshaft, personally i have been using the lucas classic 10w30 in my 3 classics a 70 chevelle ss 454 "ls 6" 64 gto tripower and a 64 vette just it's costly .
Depends on the flat tappet. A broken-in OE FT bumpstick does not have lofty AW requirements. Some of the wilder profiles and definitely if you are breaking-in a new one, may need a bit more than what you'll find in an OTS EC oil. If that's the case, a full-SAPS Euro lube is a good choice like M1 0w-40 or Castrol 0w-40.
 
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Yea I see all the advertised 20k mile intervals. Of course I would never do that, but even within my short OCI’s would those protect any better for the minimal $2 difference?
Valvoline EP is the only one that isn't marketed as a long drain oil. For 5k I would go with Valvoline Advanced.
 
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... ... What would be your top choice of 5w30 available at Walmart? Looking for the most protection/durability possible for the rarely driven hot rods.
5W a mistake. You do NOT want a high load of VM (viscosty index improvers)- they are nasty

#1 10W30 QS FS - not PP!
#2 Valvoline Advanced
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#5 Castrol Magnatec - NEVER Edge Black Bottle!

Been all over these oils the past few years. - Ken
 
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Modern service intervals anywhere between 3750 miles (Hyundai) and 15,000 miles (BMW I think, maybe other brands)... if you are running a shorter interval, any oil meeting spec is OK since it's being changed so often. If a longer interval, at minimum you should use an oil meeting spec but instead you might choose an extended service full syn since it's in the torture chamber a much longer time.
For my 6500-8000 mile intervals, Mobil 1 vanilla would be my go-to, plain and simple. That's just because of my experience with Mobil's quality and performance --- lots of other synthetics would serve my needs just fine including Supertech, Quaker State, Castrol, etc. Even Chevron Supreme syn blend would go the distance for me, with a much cheaper shelf price. I just prefer a major label full syn that can be had even cheaper than Chevron after rebates. It's been a long time since I paid over $15 for a 5-quart jug of full syn oil. Currently I am running Napa (Valvoline sourced) 5w30 full synthetic, 5 quarts for $12 on sale. Next up will be Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, 5 quarts for $13 with rebate. I just don't see price being a real issue when getting a name brand synthetic oil... maybe back in the day but not anymore.
 
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Depends on the flat tappet. A broken-in OE FT bumpstick does not have lofty AW requirements. Some of the wilder profiles and definitely if you are breaking-in a new one, may need a bit more than what you'll find in an OTS EC oil. If that's the case, a full-SAPS Euro lube is a good choice like M1 0w-40 or Castrol 0w-40.
Which is likely the answer to the OP's question.
 
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