Lets not forget that if for example Supertech oil gives you all the protection for what the engine needs the most expensive oil in the same use will not necessarly give you more of all the protection that the engine needs .Kind of the 20 foot ladder in a 5 foot hole analogy. Will there be a return on the difference between a $2.50 per qt oil as compared to an $11.00 per qt of oil. Other than spending your hard earned $$$$ on something not needed. Or will the $11.00 per qt oil give you longer engine life than a $2.50 per qt oil?
Best 4 cycle small engine oil for any price.
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Lets not forget that if for example Supertech oil gives you all the protection for what the engine needs the most expensive oil in the same use will not necessarly give you more of all the protection that the engine needs .Kind of the 20 foot ladder in a 5 foot hole analogy. Will there be a return on the difference between a $2.50 per qt oil as compared to an $11.00 per qt of oil. Other than spending your hard earned $$$$ on something not needed. Or will the $11.00 per qt oil give you longer engine life than a $2.50 per qt oil?
Agreed Steve S. I don't think the OP is measuring this in terms of value proposition though so hey I'm tossing out the high dollar suggestions for consideration.
I had to bring some grounding to the discussion. Like these who run premium syn ,a bypass filter and change the syn oil and all the filters at 5,000 miles and think they are doing their engine some good.
Think OP is doing for the fun of it for small engines. Some small engines don't have oil filters, so no filtering just the oil itself.
These engines hold from 1/2 qt to 3 quarts usually max.
Even if you changed the oil 5x per season at $10.00/qt it would cost around a hundred bucks or so.
Remember...this is an overkill thread.
Yes the engines would last longer...no doubt at all about that.
Even changing weekly with a .99 cent/qt 30wt conventional oil would be cheap and the engines would last longer. That would be $4.00/mos x 12 mos = $48.00.
How about changing after every cut....52 days x .99 cents = $52.00.
Yes the engines would last longer....I have changed my oil in the tractor 4x/season with M-1. It is worth it. It is not overkill to ME.
Even if you changed the oil 5x per season at $10.00/qt it would cost around a hundred bucks or so.
Remember...this is an overkill thread.
Yes the engines would last longer...no doubt at all about that.
Even changing weekly with a .99 cent/qt 30wt conventional oil would be cheap and the engines would last longer. That would be $4.00/mos x 12 mos = $48.00.
How about changing after every cut....52 days x .99 cents = $52.00.
Yes the engines would last longer....I have changed my oil in the tractor 4x/season with M-1. It is worth it. It is not overkill to ME.
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Precisely, Mamala.
I'm just doing it for the fun and it's an interesting endeavor. As far as the Supertech goes I'm open to anything. In fact, that will be a good one to include. Also, prices aren't included in the list because whether the oil is the most expensive or dirt cheap is immaterial to this discussion. I want optimum performance at any cost.
I feel bad not giving my equipment the best care. It's a shame to think of such a fine piece of engineering as disposable. I would rather put the price of 3 engines into maintaining my one than buy the replacements.
Not to mention how fun would it be for someone to mention some ridiculous expensive motor oil - like Motul or something similar - and say "Oh yeah, I use that stuff in my lawnmower."
I'm just doing it for the fun and it's an interesting endeavor. As far as the Supertech goes I'm open to anything. In fact, that will be a good one to include. Also, prices aren't included in the list because whether the oil is the most expensive or dirt cheap is immaterial to this discussion. I want optimum performance at any cost.
I feel bad not giving my equipment the best care. It's a shame to think of such a fine piece of engineering as disposable. I would rather put the price of 3 engines into maintaining my one than buy the replacements.
Not to mention how fun would it be for someone to mention some ridiculous expensive motor oil - like Motul or something similar - and say "Oh yeah, I use that stuff in my lawnmower."
...I have changed my oil in the tractor 4x/season...
See, this is the mentality I'm talking about.
See, this is the mentality I'm talking about.
I have tried Motul 15W-50; Redline 20W-50; Amsoil Servere Service 20W-50; Amsoil 10w30 ASE; 30WT Convertional Optimol; Mobil 1 15W-50 Redcap/Goldcap and Silvercap;Amsoil;0W-40 4-stroke;Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin.
Why? For the fun of it.
Primo mucho overkillo!
All in 16HP Briggs Vanguard made by Dhatsu. Commercial; iron lined; heavy duty main bearings to oil.
Virtually zero wear numbers!
The Hydro-Gear Transmission Mobil 1 10w30 and Amsoil 5W=30 Hydrostatic.
My conclusion "empiracally" meaning how well the engine/trans ran and UOA is that Mobil 1 10w30 for the trans is great; the Amsoil 5w30 product in the trans is working very well. I will use 10w30 ASE in the trans nexttime. Why? It goes a bit slower on a thinner oil. It won't hurt anything.
As far as the engine goes it likes Mobil 1 Goldcap better than anything out there. Smooth as silk....I have a high standard. Try it and see. I have been using Mobil 1 15W-50 for 10 yrs and know.
I am now running a Mobil 1 102 oil filter. I had used the B&S black filters until the yellow 2x came out. I will stick to Mobil 1 oil filters.
I will change the oil monthly for the heck of it and the filter a couple times a season.
The engine is the first thing to "go bad" on a $3500 Simplicity...I want it to last. 17yrs and going strong. It will last 50yrs with this care.
Synthetic oil/grease and yearly air filters as well with foam surround with an oil that will cling to the fiter.
I have seen identical tractors in the scrap heap in 10 years from neglect. WHy won't mine last 50 yrs? The dealer has has units go that long with a short block change at 40-50 yrs..
Why? For the fun of it.
Primo mucho overkillo!
All in 16HP Briggs Vanguard made by Dhatsu. Commercial; iron lined; heavy duty main bearings to oil.
Virtually zero wear numbers!
The Hydro-Gear Transmission Mobil 1 10w30 and Amsoil 5W=30 Hydrostatic.
My conclusion "empiracally" meaning how well the engine/trans ran and UOA is that Mobil 1 10w30 for the trans is great; the Amsoil 5w30 product in the trans is working very well. I will use 10w30 ASE in the trans nexttime. Why? It goes a bit slower on a thinner oil. It won't hurt anything.
As far as the engine goes it likes Mobil 1 Goldcap better than anything out there. Smooth as silk....I have a high standard. Try it and see. I have been using Mobil 1 15W-50 for 10 yrs and know.
I am now running a Mobil 1 102 oil filter. I had used the B&S black filters until the yellow 2x came out. I will stick to Mobil 1 oil filters.
I will change the oil monthly for the heck of it and the filter a couple times a season.
The engine is the first thing to "go bad" on a $3500 Simplicity...I want it to last. 17yrs and going strong. It will last 50yrs with this care.
Synthetic oil/grease and yearly air filters as well with foam surround with an oil that will cling to the fiter.
I have seen identical tractors in the scrap heap in 10 years from neglect. WHy won't mine last 50 yrs? The dealer has has units go that long with a short block change at 40-50 yrs..
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Which 'brand' of Mobil 1 is the Goldcap?
Good call on the Mobil 1 filter, but have you tried the 209? It's the same, just longer. Cross reference both filters on the wix and napa sites and you'll see that they're the same spec. except in length and burst pressure.
Good call on the Mobil 1 filter, but have you tried the 209? It's the same, just longer. Cross reference both filters on the wix and napa sites and you'll see that they're the same spec. except in length and burst pressure.
Well, the only Supertech data I can find that's even remotely current is the Synth. 5w30, so I'll be including that. With the half decent results people have with their oils, we need to pay more attention to them. There's practically no VOA evidence to go by on here and we're supposed to be the internet authority on oil... Anyway, I plan on VOA'ing their 15w40 to know what the story is there.
Expect the new chart within the hour.
Expect the new chart within the hour.
You said "internet authority"
That's good stuff. Stec is the Rodney Dangerfield of motor oil!
That's good stuff. Stec is the Rodney Dangerfield of motor oil!
Originally Posted By: pickled
Stec is the Rodney Dangerfield of motor oil!
It's rare when I say LOL I actually laugh out loud, but you got me there.
Stec is the Rodney Dangerfield of motor oil!
It's rare when I say LOL I actually laugh out loud, but you got me there.
There it is... That goldcap 15W-50 is a beast of an oil.
I just found the specs of Pennzoil Platinum 15W-50 and that's some tough stuff too, I just don't know where you'd get it.
Thanks for all the info and spreadsheets!
Ever look at the oil and think; this looks terrible and dark; I should send a sample in for UOA and the results come back great?
I have on several occasions and it puzzles me.
The dark stuff in there has got to be carbon in suspension with detergent molecules.
It can't be good to keep using it ....right?
Ever look at the oil and think; this looks terrible and dark; I should send a sample in for UOA and the results come back great?
I have on several occasions and it puzzles me.
The dark stuff in there has got to be carbon in suspension with detergent molecules.
It can't be good to keep using it ....right?
Well, here's my take...
FZ1, you're right about it only being 15-20oz. to change oil, but Pete, you have a point about the testing. Just as with a car, using used oil analysis on small engines should be able to help one determine an oil change interval with a given oil in a unit. A $30 used oil analysis might very well not be wasted if you chose an expensive oil and were able to save 3 or 4 quarts a year because of an extended interval that it helped you calculate. It could potentially pay off very well over the life of the engine. I would only do this, however, in an engine with oil filtration. Without filtration, it's either 25 hours or when it gets dark.
FZ1, you're right about it only being 15-20oz. to change oil, but Pete, you have a point about the testing. Just as with a car, using used oil analysis on small engines should be able to help one determine an oil change interval with a given oil in a unit. A $30 used oil analysis might very well not be wasted if you chose an expensive oil and were able to save 3 or 4 quarts a year because of an extended interval that it helped you calculate. It could potentially pay off very well over the life of the engine. I would only do this, however, in an engine with oil filtration. Without filtration, it's either 25 hours or when it gets dark.
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