Before or after???

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Hey people long time looker first time poster

Just got done installing trany bypass. I T-ed in on the cooler influedn and hade it go back in the dipstick.
Now it hit me, should I hade it come in after the coller???
Any inpoot welcome.
P.S. It's a 03 Cherokee with 4.0
Thanks in advance
Anton
 
Since you're not filtering full flow, it really makes no difference. The amount you're filtering isn't going to alter your cooling to any real amount. I think that you could have just plumbed it across the cooler (just between the in:eek:ut lines) and allowed the pressure differential to drive the bypass filter. All you need is 2PSID
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I was thinking installing axillery cooler after the filter. But then againg, should I do it before the filter??
What size coller would I need?
I know it probably won't matter but we all know more fluid and cooler fluid is GOOD
 
Isn't what the transmission filter for, to catch big "stuff" and buy pass will take care the rest?

I'm using M1 301 filter as bypass, is it ok to use that filter? If not witch one would you recomand and why.
 
M1-301 is not a bypass filter. It is a full flow filter. And, you should plumb it that way.
A T'd in full flow filter doesn't restrict enough and you ARE losing cooling capacity.

If you want a bypass for the ATF, you'll need to buy a "bypass filter".
 
Good catch, undummy! Whoa JeePing. Like undummy says ..that needs to be in line. ATF will just wiz right on through that full flow filter
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The cooling line doesn't directly return to the sump. In the 904/999/929/32RH/30RH it lubricates the rotating parts. I imagine that it does in your 4XXRE trans too. You would be robbing that flow in addition to losing cooling.

You can put that 301 in line without a care.
 
Well you guys sceared me so I whent ahead and plumbed it full flow.
How often should I change it?
Thanks
 
It doesn't matter since you're not filtering full flow. You're not going to catch any big chunks that may happen to pass through the system. I mean, you may, but by the mere fact that you're only filtering a small % ..there's a majority of the fluid that's just going to breeze by and do what it wants anyway
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You don't have to worry, imo, about how that diverted flow will effect cooling ..so grab which ever line you want.

Get as big a cooler as you can manage to fit with reasonable ease.
 
Its cheap and easy enough to change yearly, and at every ATF change interval. A big filter like that should easily last 30k miles without clogging.

Stick some magnets or use a filtermag on it also.

A better or larger filter can also be used.
 
Better or larger like?
I'm not trying to sound like smart *** but can you tell me what you would use in my case?
Thanks
 
I would try the Baldwin B7311MPG filter. Its a little longer and I've read somewhere that it rated at 6-microns.
Racor(LFS22825) also makes a 6-micron ATF filter kit. But, I can't find any info on the Racor thread size.

Another option is the Trasko hybrid filter. This will add bypass along with the full flow filtration.

There is nothing wrong with the filter you are using or any of other quart-sized boutique filters from: Amsoil/Pureone/Mobil1/Napagold/MotorcraftRacing/FramXG
But, since temperature seems to be the AT killer, I'd use the biggest filter possible. The large filter adds ATF capacity just like those fancy deeper pans.
If you have room, xreference the Wix 51773/51714/51459. They'll add ~1.5+ quarts extra ATF capacity vs. the ~1 quart from using the M1-301.

And, magnetic filtration is important. Stick some magnets on any filter you use. Filtermags, IMO, are too expensive. Neodymium or high powered magnets can be purchased cheaper online. Several 1" magnets, mounted around the filter, should be enough.
 
I mount it on K&N intake filter shild.
It's probably not the best place, but it's right buy the ATF cooler lines and it's very easy to change it too.
 
I "T" in my transmission bypass filters after the cooler. It just makes sense to do it that way so all the ATF goes through the cooler.

You will NEVER plug up a filter that's filtering your ATF. If you did, there are bigger problems at hand. I run my Amsoil BE90's for 125,000 miles and they still flow fine. So a time-based change interval of 1-2 years would be appropriate for most people.
 
I didn't think about it before i plumbed it. But it's a full flow now.
Thanks again for all the info.
 
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