Baxter Performance Oil Filter Anti Drain Adapter???

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I'm not far behind. ๐Ÿ‘ FYI the Purolator Boss PBL22500 will work with the Baxter and has a 22psi bypass, but I know you're not to worried about that! ๐Ÿ˜‚ Also FWIW, the Amsoil EaO17 is compatible and has a 18-24 psi bypass.

Going off of that oil filter test, I'd rather run a more efficient filter than the BOSS. It's too bad they don't offer an Ultraguard in as big of one as the Wix 57045. The XG10575 is larger than the stock sized XG7317, but not as large as that Wix 57045 is.

I already got shipping confirmation.
 

dezlpwr

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2 psi is what he told me on the check valve.

He said that he has had people connect a bike pump to it to evacuate it who don't have air compressors. So I'm guessing you could do it with lower pressure but it just may take longer.....like you said.
Yep! Just got off the phone with Kevin. That is what he said. I just ordered mine. I got the last one in stock.๐Ÿ‘
 

ZeeOSix

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Going off of that oil filter test, I'd rather run a more efficient filter than the BOSS. It's too bad they don't offer an Ultraguard in as big of one as the Wix 57045. The XG10575 is larger than the stock sized XG7317, but not as large as that Wix 57045 is.

I already got shipping confirmation.
The XG10575 is plenty big for any Subaru ... same filter used on the 435 HP Ford V8s in Mustangs and F-150s.
 

ZeeOSix

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2 psi is what he told me on the check valve.

He said that he has had people connect a bike pump to it to evacuate it who don't have air compressors. So I'm guessing you could do it with lower pressure but it just may take longer.....like you said.
Then you certainly don't need 30 PSI if the anti-siphon valve opens at 2 PSI. I'd go with 10-15 PSI and just purge it a little longer.
 

dezlpwr

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Going off of that oil filter test, I'd rather run a more efficient filter than the BOSS. It's too bad they don't offer an Ultraguard in as big of one as the Wix 57045. The XG10575 is larger than the stock sized XG7317, but not as large as that Wix 57045 is.

I already got shipping confirmation.
That or the Amsoil filter. Both are 99%@ 20mic. Amsoil filter is just more dough. I have an Amsoil account and need to order their ZRod 20W-50 for my boat anyways so I'll add a few EAO17s while I'm at it.๐Ÿ˜Ž
I got a shipping notification within 20min.๐Ÿ˜ณ๐Ÿ‘
 
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I installed a Mishimoto catch can on the car with 20 miles on it. That's how OCD I am.๐Ÿ˜‚ It had about an ounce of fuelly, oily smelling liquid in it at 1000 miles. Crap that would have went into my intake and valves. Very happy I installed it.


Did they change the mounting on that? When I looked into one last summer they mounted on the plastic intsake in front of the motor. I do recall something needed to be done differently for the 2.5L though....maybe they moved it back on the firewall for that reason? Maybe they wanted it lower so it would gravity drain and liquids?

Anyway, can you access it to drain w/o having to remove anything? I'm still thinking about installing one, but I am concerned about doing so with our cold winters. I would NOT want the lines to freeze in winter....that would not be cool.
 

dezlpwr

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Did they change the mounting on that? When I looked into one last summer they mounted on the plastic intsake in front of the motor. I do recall something needed to be done differently for the 2.5L though....maybe they moved it back on the firewall for that reason? Maybe they wanted it lower so it would gravity drain and liquids?

Anyway, can you access it to drain w/o having to remove anything? I'm still thinking about installing one, but I am concerned about doing so with our cold winters. I would NOT want the lines to freeze in winter....that would not be cool.
I had to modify the firewall mounting bracket that it came with. Sometime after 2018 Subaru changed the AC lines/routing, probably when they switched to the new R1234Y Freon or whatever it is?๐Ÿคทโ€โ™‚๏ธOn my 2022 Crosstrek there are AC Lines in the way so I took ot to my buddy who's an awesome welder and he modified the bracket so it fits. Took him 15 minutes with sips of beer in between.๐Ÿ˜‚ I can easily access the catch can on the firewall and unscrew it to check and or empty. As of now, I'm getting 1-2oz of the liquid crap in it every 1000miles. At this rate you could easily go 5000miles without emptying but I'm going to check it every 1000 miles for now. Why not, takes only a couple minutes...
 
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Also, on my Toyota Tacoma, the oil filter is on top of the engine and is mounted vertical with base down. The filter never drains itself out through the center tube even if it sits a week. I have to punch a hole in the top of the oil filter when I do an oil change to make the filter drain

I was just talking to a buddy about this Baxter thing for my Subaru and mentioned to him about your Tacoma and how you had to stab the filter as it would hold oil. He used to have one and he told me to tell you this, "there is a rubber button you pull off and a 16oz bottle fit perfectly under it to collect the oil then spray it down. Change filter and spin cap on bottle and throw away.". May mean something to you, but it doesn't to me. :D
 

ZeeOSix

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I was just talking to a buddy about this Baxter thing for my Subaru and mentioned to him about your Tacoma and how you had to stab the filter as it would hold oil. He used to have one and he told me to tell you this, "there is a rubber button you pull off and a 16oz bottle fit perfectly under it to collect the oil then spray it down. Change filter and spin cap on bottle and throw away.". May mean something to you, but it doesn't to me. :D
Yeah, I know all about the nipple on the "catch basin" below the oil filter. It's much easier to just punch a hole in the top of the oil filter and let it drain while the sump is also draining. When I do it that way, the oil filter is completely empty and there is zero oil mess to clean up. :)
 
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I got a shipping notification within 20min.๐Ÿ˜ณ๐Ÿ‘

Did you get yours yet? Mine is scheduled to be delivered today already. Shipped from your neck of the woods on Tuesday and made it to WI in two days.

The ONE nice thing about having a dry filter now is I can just spin off the old one and install the adapter and new filter w/o losing any oil or dealing with any mess. :D
 
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Yeah, I know all about the nipple on the "catch basin" below the oil filter. It's much easier to just punch a hole in the top of the oil filter and let it drain while the sump is also draining. When I do it that way, the oil filter is completely empty and there is zero oil mess to clean up. :)
Would that eliminate the need to blow air into the Schrader valve with the Baxter setup? It wouldn't bother me in the least to let the oil filter sit with a hole or two poked into it for an hour or two w/o blowing air into the engine.
 
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Would that eliminate the need to blow air into the Schrader valve with the Baxter setup? It wouldn't bother me in the least to let the oil filter sit with a hole or two poked into it for an hour or two w/o blowing air into the engine.

I'm guessing it would. Probably wouldn't need an hour though. Like ZeeOSix mentioned, if you puncture it and then go and drain the pan, by the time the pan is drained I bet the filter would be drained out as well.
 
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I'm guessing it would. Probably wouldn't need an hour though. Like ZeeOSix mentioned, if you puncture it and then go and drain the pan, by the time the pan is drained I bet the filter would be drained out as well.
Thanks, that's what I was thinking. That makes the unit a bit more appealing to me than blowing air into it to drain the filter.
 
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Thanks, that's what I was thinking. That makes the unit a bit more appealing to me than blowing air into it to drain the filter.

Although, I think the chances of something getting in where it's not supposed to be is MUCH greater by poking a hole in the top (where you would be compromising the clean oil part of the filter and directly above the bypass valve AND inlet to the engine) vs blowing a little bit of air into the dirty side of the filter. Go too far with whatever you are poking a hole with and you could send pieces of the bypass valve (or possibly even can fragments) into the motor.
 
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Although, I think the chances of something getting in where it's not supposed to be is MUCH greater by poking a hole in the top (where you would be compromising the clean oil part of the filter and directly above the bypass valve AND inlet to the engine) vs blowing a little bit of air into the dirty side of the filter. Go too far with whatever you are poking a hole with and you could send pieces of the bypass valve (or possibly even can fragments) into the motor.
I doubt a clean awl poking through a clean filter top is going to cause an issue. I also think clear flood mode is still a great alternative as well, which is why I'm still very hesitant in pulling the trigger.
 

ZeeOSix

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Would that eliminate the need to blow air into the Schrader valve with the Baxter setup? It wouldn't bother me in the least to let the oil filter sit with a hole or two poked into it for an hour or two w/o blowing air into the engine.
If the check valve in the adaptor, and the filter's ADBV are both working right, then punching a hole in the fiter dome probably won't drain the filter. It drains on my Tacoma because there is no check valve on the center tube.

You could certainly try it to verify, but I doubt it will work when the adaptor is installed.
 

ZeeOSix

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Although, I think the chances of something getting in where it's not supposed to be is MUCH greater by poking a hole in the top (where you would be compromising the clean oil part of the filter and directly above the bypass valve AND inlet to the engine) vs blowing a little bit of air into the dirty side of the filter. Go too far with whatever you are poking a hole with and you could send pieces of the bypass valve (or possibly even can fragments) into the motor.
I use a sharp awl and only punch through just the dome wall, never goes into the media or through the end cap. I know that because of visual inspection when I cut the filters open. Nothing is going to get in that small hole, and it's on the dirty side of the filter too, even if something somehow did.
 
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I use a sharp awl and only punch through just the dome wall, never goes into the media or through the end cap. I know that because of visual inspection when I cut the filters open. Nothing is going to get in that small hole, and it's on the dirty side of the filter too, even if something somehow did.
That's how I do it, and I would have no worries about it at all getting dirt, paint, or anything else into the engine. I agree with what you said above, the air is needed to drain the filter. I'd feel safer popping a hole. Trying it would cost me quite a bit unfortunately. ;)
 

ZeeOSix

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That's how I do it, and I would have no worries about it at all getting dirt, paint, or anything else into the engine. I agree with what you said above, the air is needed to drain the filter. I'd feel safer popping a hole. Trying it would cost me quite a bit unfortunately. ;)
If it was mine, I wouldn't have a problem putting 10 PSI of air into the filter since I have a separator/filter on the outlet of my compressor. I think 10 PSI would be enough pressure to drain the oil in the filter out through the adaptor check valve.
 
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If it was mine, I wouldn't have a problem putting 10 PSI of air into the filter since I have a separator/filter on the outlet of my compressor. I think 10 PSI would be enough pressure to drain the oil in the filter out through the adaptor check valve.
I have one as well. I just don't have faith enough in it to be certain I'm not blowing crap into the engine from the compressor tank [less likely with the separator/filter], or the hose itself. I'll certainly do a bit more homework.
 
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