Baxter Performance Oil Filter Anti Drain Adapter???

Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
71
Location
Gig Harbor, WA
We now have 1500 miles on our 2022 Subaru Crosstrek Premium 2.0 6MT. We love the car and plan on owning it a long time. I'm thinking about installing one of these units on it to do whatever I can to prolong the life of the engine. I changed the oil in the car after the break in period at 1000 miles and did an oil analysis because I'm OCD and wanted to check on the wear metals in the oil. It came back with high copper and very high silicon, which was to be expected for a brand new engine wearing in. When I pulled the black Tokyo Roki oil filter that came installed from the factory, I was surprised to see the oil had drained out of the filter even though it has an anti-drain back valve. I figured one of these units installed wouldn't hurt in terms of prolonging engine life. Besides warranty concerns, does anyone have experience with this unit, have one installed, or have comments on it? It has certainly got me interested....
 

ZeeOSix

$100 site donor 2022
Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
32,929
Location
PNW
Looks like a well made unit. Sounds like it has a check valve in the oil flow path after the filter to keep oil from drainig out the filter center tube. The Schrader valve must be used to drain the oil out of the filter and adaptor before an oil change. Didn't hear much about it in the video, or a demo of that being used.
 

dezlpwr

Thread starter
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
71
Location
Gig Harbor, WA
They mention installation of this valve in the installation instructions. That's it though. Surprised it wasn't in the video but the concept is easy enough to figure out.
 

ZeeOSix

$100 site donor 2022
Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
32,929
Location
PNW
They mention installation of this valve in the installation instructions. That's it though. Surprised it wasn't in the video but the concept is easy enough to figure out.
Do they want people to connect an air hose to the Schrader valve to blow out the oil, or simply open the valve to allow oil to drain by gravity? Wasn't clear to me.
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2020
Messages
1,635
would I run OEM only yes I had fram seep at the base in cold weather never oem
 

Job

Joined
Dec 4, 2018
Messages
3,028
Location
USA
With this device on there if you have engine problems good luck convincing the dealer this is not a modification. I didn’t run to the internet and search if they have some kind of approvals from Subaru.
The oiling system is not as simple as it seems. I have reversed some ideas as time goes on and I learn things. Here are some questions. What keeps the oil from draining down below the check valve versus above valve? It seems to take air entrance, like when the shrader valve they have is opened. Like a plugged air vent to a sink means the sink holds water until there is an air bubble released and it goes down a little. So the issue is air entrance, or leakage. Where are air leakage points in the oil filter system acting like an air vent to allow oil to drain out rapidly?
The second question is are you pushing the adbv open and finding no oil or looking at the empty center tube?
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
Messages
36,919
Location
NY
Do they want people to connect an air hose to the Schrader valve to blow out the oil, or simply open the valve to allow oil to drain by gravity? Wasn't clear to me.
I thought they want you to blow the oil out, I could be wrong. I was considering it at one point for my 3.6L Rubicon and passed. I'm not sure about blowing dirty shop air into my engine, or am I over thinking this and unclear on what the Schrader valve is used for?
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2016
Messages
165
Location
North Dakota
I thought they want you to blow the oil out, I could be wrong. I was considering it at one point for my 3.6L Rubicon and passed. I'm not sure about blowing dirty shop air into my engine, or am I over thinking this and unclear on what the Schrader valve is used for?
After doing my own lifter and rocker arm replacement on my 2012 Sport with the 3.6, I installed the Baxter oil filter adapter. I won't bore you with the details, but I came to the conclusion that the stock cartridge oil filter did a less than acceptable job with filtration. I also didn't like the idea of the faulty plastic integrated bypass.

Whether it can be argued as scientific or not, I can safely say that valvetrain noise on startup has been all but eliminated and my oil looks a lot cleaner than it did before. It's not exa cheap, but it is affordable insurance. I recommend it.

That said, my understanding with the schrader valve is that the application of air for the brief period required is to release the oil from the integral check valve that keeps the upper end supplied with oil (think secondary ADBV). You are overriding it to release all the dirty oil when changing it.
 
Joined
Jun 19, 2019
Messages
1,795
Location
Appleton, WI
i have a 2018 with same engine running OEM filters 100k on it I’m not seeing the benefits.

I know that the Subaru OEM oil filter is specified to flow at a maximum rate of 14.5 GPM per FSM. I'm failing to see what the exact benefit of this oil filter adapter product is and why I should be motivated to pay $230 for it.
 

ZeeOSix

$100 site donor 2022
Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
32,929
Location
PNW
I know that the Subaru OEM oil filter is specified to flow at a maximum rate of 14.5 GPM per FSM. I'm failing to see what the exact benefit of this oil filter adapter product is and why I should be motivated to pay $230 for it.
This specific filter adaptor is simply to ensure oil stays in the filter after the engine is shut-off. This adaptor has a check valve on the filter outlet side (an anti-siphon valve) to keep oil from draining out of the filter. Apparently that happens on some Subarus, regardless of how well the filter's ADBV works.
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2020
Messages
1,635
I know that the Subaru OEM oil filter is specified to flow at a maximum rate of 14.5 GPM per FSM. I'm failing to see what the exact benefit of this oil filter adapter product is and why I should be motivated to pay $230 for it.
You shouldn't run a quality oil and filter you won't gain a thing running some voodoo gadget
 

dezlpwr

Thread starter
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
71
Location
Gig Harbor, WA
Do they want people to connect an air hose to the Schrader valve to blow out the oil, or simply open the valve to allow oil to drain by gravity? Wasn't clear to me.
Well as I understand it, you just press in the schraeder valve like letting air out of your bike tire to remove some pressure in the filter before removal?
 

dezlpwr

Thread starter
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
71
Location
Gig Harbor, WA
I thought they want you to blow the oil out, I could be wrong. I was considering it at one point for my 3.6L Rubicon and passed. I'm not sure about blowing dirty shop air into my engine, or am I over thinking this and unclear on what the Schrader valve is used for?
You are correct! I just got this reply from Kevin Baxter. I am also a little leery of blowing 3 seconds of 140 psi air into my engine to bleed the oil filter down.😳 That is my only hesitation with this product. My compressed air usually has some moisture in it. @mphilleo your thoughts on this?

Baxter reply:
Normally anti-drain back valves work, however, the oil supply galley from the pump to the oil filter and oil supply galley from the oil filter to the engine run parallel inside the engine cover with only a steel plate cover to separate flow, no gasket is utilized. Head space air pressure trapped in the oil filter expands to atmospheric pressure when the engine is shut off. This condition forces the oil out of the oil filter through the center outflow port and empties the outflow supply galley feeding the engine. Air then passes by the steel plate separating the two galleys and allows oil to drain back between the oil filter and back to the pump. By keeping both galleys flooded, no oil flows and air does not enter when the engine is turned off.



Our patent pending check full flow check valve is a precision device and has never failed in our products or testing.



To empty the oil filter prior to filter replacement, apply 3 seconds of compressed air to the Schrader valve.
 

ZeeOSix

$100 site donor 2022
Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
32,929
Location
PNW
You are correct! I just got this reply from Kevin Baxter. I am also a little leery of blowing 3 seconds of 140 psi air into my engine to bleed the oil filter down.😳 That is my only hesitation with this product. My compressed air usually has some moisture in it. @mphilleo your thoughts on this?

Baxter reply:
Normally anti-drain back valves work, however, the oil supply galley from the pump to the oil filter and oil supply galley from the oil filter to the engine run parallel inside the engine cover with only a steel plate cover to separate flow, no gasket is utilized. Head space air pressure trapped in the oil filter expands to atmospheric pressure when the engine is shut off. This condition forces the oil out of the oil filter through the center outflow port and empties the outflow supply galley feeding the engine. Air then passes by the steel plate separating the two galleys and allows oil to drain back between the oil filter and back to the pump. By keeping both galleys flooded, no oil flows and air does not enter when the engine is turned off.

Our patent pending check full flow check valve is a precision device and has never failed in our products or testing.

To empty the oil filter prior to filter replacement, apply 3 seconds of compressed air to the Schrader valve.
Sounds like the air pressure simply pushes the oil out of the filter, through the media and out the check valve on the filter outlet side. It doesnt need any 140 PSI of air pressure. All it needs is enough pressure to push and move the oil out of the filter, probably 8-10 PSI for 10 sec would work. Theoretically, the compressed air should all go through the filter media if the ADBV seals well, so if the air is "dirty", it should be filtered by the media.
 

dezlpwr

Thread starter
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
71
Location
Gig Harbor, WA
Sounds like the air pressure simply pushes the oil out of the filter, through the media and out the check valve on the filter outlet side. It doesnt need any 140 PSI of air pressure. All it needs is enough pressure to push and move the oil out of the filter, probably 8-10 PSI for 10 sec would work. Theoretically, the compressed air should all go through the filter media if the ADBV seals well, so if the air is "dirty", it should be filtered by the media.
Interesting... I may pull the trigger on this adapter. Still on the fence though. In a separate emailed response he said:
We recommend 3 seconds, minimum 30psi / max 140psi.

The other benefit of this filter in my opinion is that it requires me to run a larger oil filter with more media and I am able to run a Fram Ultra XG10575 that has the ballpark bypass range of the stock Subaru oil filter. Ultra is 16-28 Stock is 23.2 I believe. I'm not too concerned about the bypass psi though. That's another whole debate that has been beaten to death with Subarus.
 
Joined
Sep 9, 2016
Messages
165
Location
North Dakota
You are correct! I just got this reply from Kevin Baxter. I am also a little leery of blowing 3 seconds of 140 psi air into my engine to bleed the oil filter down.😳 That is my only hesitation with this product. My compressed air usually has some moisture in it. @mphilleo your thoughts on this?

Baxter reply:
Normally anti-drain back valves work, however, the oil supply galley from the pump to the oil filter and oil supply galley from the oil filter to the engine run parallel inside the engine cover with only a steel plate cover to separate flow, no gasket is utilized. Head space air pressure trapped in the oil filter expands to atmospheric pressure when the engine is shut off. This condition forces the oil out of the oil filter through the center outflow port and empties the outflow supply galley feeding the engine. Air then passes by the steel plate separating the two galleys and allows oil to drain back between the oil filter and back to the pump. By keeping both galleys flooded, no oil flows and air does not enter when the engine is turned off.



Our patent pending check full flow check valve is a precision device and has never failed in our products or testing.



To empty the oil filter prior to filter replacement, apply 3 seconds of compressed air to the Schrader valve.
Everyone has to decide their threshold of tolerance for things, and I have mine too. In my opinion, based on what I know, the pros outweigh the cons.

I'll have to double check the instructions that came with mine, but if memory serves, it only needs 3 seconds of 30-40 PSI to release the check valve/oil. To me, that's nothing. The engine can tolerate far, far more pressure than that. As far as moisture in the air, one could always install an inline water/oil separator. But as we all know, condensation forms in the crankcase in greater volumes (which in theory should burn off after a long drive) than I'd ever supply with a short burst from my air compressor.

Again, just my opinion based on what I know.
 

dezlpwr

Thread starter
Joined
Feb 22, 2009
Messages
71
Location
Gig Harbor, WA
@mphilleo
Thanks, I agree with what you are saying. I installed a Mishimoto catch can on the car with 20 miles on it. That's how OCD I am.😂 It had about an ounce of fuelly, oily smelling liquid in it at 1000 miles. Crap that would have went into my intake and valves. Very happy I installed it. You've convinced me. I'm going to pull the trigger on the Baxter.😎👍
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
Messages
36,919
Location
NY
Sounds like the air pressure simply pushes the oil out of the filter, through the media and out the check valve on the filter outlet side. It doesnt need any 140 PSI of air pressure. All it needs is enough pressure to push and move the oil out of the filter, probably 8-10 PSI for 10 sec would work. Theoretically, the compressed air should all go through the filter media if the ADBV seals well, so if the air is "dirty", it should be filtered by the media.
Operative word is theoretical. Blowing compressed air into the engine was the turn off for me. Clear flood mode is always an option or a pre-luber if a person is really concerned with cold starts. Not sure how the system plays into a new car warranty either, the smart money is it gives the car maker an out on a big warranty claim if they notice it or should you make the mistake of not removing it when making a claim. hide
 
Top