Bad Compression in 2 cylinders, and opinions on using CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner for piston soak?

Personally, for my rings I’m going the expensive route - Valvoline Premium Blue Restore. It’s sold only at a Cummins location for $90ish with tax. It claims to remove carbon from piston rings. It’s an exotic mostly ester base.

I’ve used Liqui Moly Engine Clean and BG EPR with success in the past.
 
That stuff is like 50% ester and 30% PAO (synthetic oil base). Normally that much ester would eat away all seals. Since it doesn't, it must be bio based.

The only easily available bio based ester I can think of is biodiesel (make sure its 98%+ actual biodiesel not some 20% biodiesel blend with aggressive marketing). Please don't construe this as me recommending you fill your crankcase with 50% biodiesel! You could put 1:128 biodiesel:gasoline in your fuel safely, but it would lower your octane rating slightly so might not be cost effective.

Lubegard Biotech is bio ester based - 3 ounces per quart in the crankcase.


Auto-Rx has the cyclohex(anone,ane,ene) family in it and some ester but it is dosed in conservative quantities. The right way to do it IMO. Like BG 109 EPR and maybe others also have cyclohex*. Effective, sure, but a little old school in 2020. Heh, limonene (citrus oil cleaner) is a cyclohexene that could maybe be a cheap oil additive - and it smells good. PEA is considered the modern best practice (Gumout, CRC, Techron). B-12 Chemtool and Seafoam are very very old school petroleum and alcohol solvents. They do also work and are cheap (well Chemtool is, Seafoam is overpriced).

I still recommend putting these things in the fuel system. Like Gumout Multi-System. It's slower but a sure thing and zero chance of unintended damage/consequences.
Just finished a 9800 mile run of Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10w-30 in my Prius. Noticed during the oil change that my timing cover's RTV seal is starting to seep oil in a few spots....which is odd since I just resealed it about 25K ago and it was bone dry until the end of this Valvoline Premium Blue Restore cycle.
 
I agree with the above. Probably not a head gasket.

The B12 in the can with a screw on lid, is good stuff. It will help dissolve hard carbon and stuck rings. B12 even stripped the epoxy paint from my aircraft hangar floor. Regular chemicals, fuels/oils do not affect that paint at all.

Suggestion: Put all pistons mid stroke, leave oil in the pan, pour in B12, let sit for hours, or until it drains past the rings and into the pan. (I know you know this but a reminder is never bad, Don't crank engine with fluid in the cylinders! ) Drain the oil, and pour some gas into the oil fill after it's done draining, to flush out the B12. Then fill with a full synthetic oil with an HTHS of 3.8 and go drive.

Unrelated note: I went to purchase some screw top cans of B12 locally and all the local stores are out of it. I purchased the spray cans, which do not have the same paint stripping, carbon cleaning power.
 
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Old BMW guys used this European stuff called Ventil Sauber for hot soaking the pistons. Very aromatic Probably easier to get than Chem-Tool Please post a follow up.
 
NewtonPulsifier, many thanks for your very detailed post. You just sent me into a neverending investigation of each and one of the methods/substances you mentioned :D

Thanks nthach, it was a cheap kit I found on eBay, so I thought it's worth giving it a try. Its the first time I used a CO test, do you think that I'm right regarding my conclusions?

Cujet, thanks for your suggestion, I think that probably this is the route I will go. Few people mentioned that 15 minutes of soaking with the b12 chemtool would be enough. But I think I will leave it for hours as you said, as I would not like to waste two batches of fresh oil in case the first time I will not have success. Should I put back the plugs in while waiting? I saw that there is around 40-45% toluene 20-25% of acetone and 25% of ethanol that might evaporate very quickly before making any difference?
I have a few gallons of Motul x-clean 8100 5w40 with declared HTHS of 3.64, so I think that it will do the job.

I have the Liqui Moly Engine Clean and BG EPR stuff sold locally, do you think that I should do the engine flush all together? Or should I leave the procedure for another try later on in case the first procedure will fail?

Anyway as I mentioned earlier, I have two cans of B12 #0116 on the way from the US, that hopefully will arrive in the course of two weeks, and meanwhile, I will try to catch another 1,000km with the auto-RX in the oil, although I saw mixed opinions regarding this product.

OilUzer, next time I will try to choose a better label for a post. I hope you didn't run out of screen space because of me...
 
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I have the Liqui Moly Engine Clean and BG EPR stuff sold locally, do you think that I should do the engine flush all together?

As long as you do the engine flush carefully and don't introduce problems, it will be fine, I say go for it. I would not drive a vehicle that has significant solvent in the oil, but that's just me. As for using both products together at the same time, that would be an experiment! I've not seen engine flushes really clean a varnished up or sludged up engine, nor have I seen flushes unstick piston rings. Synthetic oil and regular oil changes are the best way to prevent those issues.

The BG will dissolve carbon over time, "if" that's your issue. I've seen it work.
 
Ah, sorry, I thought for some reason that bg 109 and the other substance are just flushing agents... should have done more research before posting my reply. Anyway, I would not drive a vehicle with such a solvent in the oil. At max, I will let my engine idle for 10-15 minutes before changing the oil, maybe without any additional flushing agent, as some of the B12 will surely make it's way to the oil, and act as a flushing agent by itself.

I will update with the results. Many thanks for the valuable information!
 
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