Back Wiure Electrical Receptacle With No Release

[George7941]

Came across this receptacle with no way to release the live and neutral wires. I pulled hard on the wires and both broke, leaving stubs in the receptacle. There was enough extra length of wires in the box, so all I had to do was strip some insulation off the wires and attach them to the new receptacle, using the side screws. The old receptacle failed because of the back stabbing.

On the back of the old receptacle is - Smith and Stone, Made in Canada.

 

[spasm3]

Is the hole near the screw the release?
Either way, not expensive to replace.

 

[Rand]

thats an odd one.. I always had this type.

 

[Hall]

Looks like that outlet maker follows NEC code pretty strictly. Stabbed connections aren't allowed to be re-used according to NEC so they give no provisions for releasing the wire.

 

[George7941]

Is the hole near the screw the release?
Either way, not expensive to replace.

The hole near the screw is for hooking the end of the wire into so that the wire can be bent around the screw, without using a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the wire. I did check the hole to see if it was for release.

Looks like that outlet maker follows NEC code pretty strictly. Stabbed connections aren't allowed to be re-used according to NEC so they give no provisions for releasing the wire.

Learned something new - did not know that stabbed connections should not be reused.

Stabbed connections should never have been allowed. Failed receptacles I encounter more often than not failed because of back stabbing.

 

[atikovi]

Stabbed connections should never have been allowed. Failed receptacles I encounter more often than not failed because of bsck stabbing.

That has to do with the quality of the receptacle more than the method.

 

[brianl703]

I just use a big pair of channelocks to crush the outlet and pull the wires from the remains. This is actually faster than trying to release the wire in most cases.

This doesn't work for WR (weather resistant) rated outlets--they are made of a tough plastic that's welded.

 

[George7941]

I just use a big pair of channelocks to crush the outlet and pull the wires from the remains. This is actually faster than trying to release the wire in most cases.

This doesn't work for WR (weather resistant) rated outlets--they are made of a tough plastic that's welded.

Good tip - will try that next time.

Reminds me - to release the wires from the push-in wire connectors like Wago 203 (not lever locks), crush the connector with dykes down the middle between the wires and the wires slide right out.

 

[Hall]

Learned something new - did not know that stabbed connections should not be reused.

As you've experienced though, many outlets allow you to release (and re-use) the backstab connection. I guess the official reason there would be so you don't have to shorten the wiring anymore than necessary. I know many will insist you need to cut off the 'stabbed' portion and re-strip it for 'clean' wire though....

 

[nomas]

Even quality receptacles are inexpensive . Replace with new .

 

[George7941]

Even quality receptacles are inexpensive . Replace with new .

No one is trying to save on the cost of a new receptacle.

 

[jhellwig]

Pull on the wire and twist the receptacle back and forth. The wire will walk out.

The back stabbed receptacle were a bad idea because of the cheapness of the outlet and then trying to daisy chain through them. Now back stabbing is limited to 14awg wire and not meant as a pass through to another outlet. Any decent outlet now comes with a washer or a nut to capture the wire without twisting it. Only the cheap outlets still have the back stab. Never understood it because the time it saves to curl a loop and tighten down the screw is minimal and you have to do it for the grounding wire anyways. Wagos and the ideal version of push on wire nuts work just fine so not sure how the outlets went so horribly wrong.

 

[mk378]

The cheap outlets have all the metal inside stamped from one piece of yellow metal. Using this metal as the contact spring did not exert enough force for reliable contact. Waygo connectors have a separate spring made of steel.

 

[George7941]

Pull on the wire and twist the receptacle back and forth. The wire will walk out.

The back stabbed receptacle were a bad idea because of the cheapness of the outlet and then trying to daisy chain through them. Now back stabbing is limited to 14awg wire and not meant as a pass through to another outlet. Any decent outlet now comes with a washer or a nut to capture the wire without twisting it. Only the cheap outlets still have the back stab. Never understood it because the time it saves to curl a loop and tighten down the screw is minimal and you have to do it for the grounding wire anyways. Wagos and the ideal version of push on wire nuts work just fine so not sure how the outlets went so horribly wrong.

The back stabbing does have one advantage - an extra pair of wires can be hooked up without resorting to wire nuts. Usually not a big deal to use wire nuts but if you are tight for space in the box, not having to use extra wire nuts helps.

 

[dlundblad]

Stabbing in the back on a plug is no good. Use the screws.

 

[atikovi]

Why? If no good wouldn't the electrical codes prohibit it?

 

[mk378]

an extra pair of wires can be hooked up without resorting to wire nuts.

The commercial grade or back wire outlets shown in the video can legitimately have four wires on each side. Six semi-legitimately by wrapping a wire under the screw heads.

 

[George7941]

Why? If no good wouldn't the electrical codes prohibit it?

Go on electrical forums like Mike Holt's and you will find professional electricians complaining bitterly about back stabbing.

 

[brianl703]

No one is trying to save on the cost of a new receptacle.

Some folks around here will. Friend of mine had the overhead lights stop working in his office trailer. Found out that they were fed from a receptacle which someone had replaced with a used one (the original outlet was a mobile-home style where the wires are pressed into the back). You could tell because the plaster ears were all removed, and nobody removes the plaster ears from an outlet unless they have to, and they didn't need to for this install.. Anyway, the used outlet was wired with the push-in terminals, one of which came right out of the outlet when it was removed.

Replacing the outlet fixed the problem. I don't doubt that the reason the push-in connections failed is because it was a used outlet someone saved a whole 39 cents on (probably what they cost when that thing was installed).

 

[dishdude]

These Leviton Edge receptacles look pretty interesting.