After reading a few threads here I decided to use my leftover Castrol HM 5W-20 for the yearly OC on my 550 series mower. Its only 2 years old so hopefully there will be no problems in the Texas heat. It fired right up and ran fine for a 5 minute test. I will update after the first full run in several weeks.
B&S 550 Series with 5W-20
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I would not use that oil for that application in the Texas summer heat.
M1 15W-50, M1 V twin 20W-50, GC, Rotella T6, M1 0W-40, M1 Delvac 1300, would be my choices for the kind of heat Texas has.
If you want to go with low cost then Rotella T5 15W-40 would be a good oil.
You could probably use 5W-20 for winter Texas temperature, but starting off with a 20 for the top number is thin, even for 75 to 50 ambinet temps.
One of the things you should keep in mind is that most chemicla reactions double or half for every 10 degree C, or 18 degree F.
Keeping that in mind, think of oil as loosing half of its Viscosity for every increase of 18 degree F. The oil in an air cooled engine druing a normal use will probably reach 212 F if the ambient is 75 F. At 212 F most 30 weight (upper number) thin out to a 10 weight. And this is what your engien is designed to run at. If you are going to run that engine in Texas summer heat, you will require an oil that is above 30 weight to start with so when it is heated above 212 F it does not thin to something less than 10.
If you start with a 20 as the top number, you already lost the battle to keep your engine properly protected, because it will thin to less than 10 at 212 F when the engine is up to full operating temperature at 75 ambient.
M1 15W-50, M1 V twin 20W-50, GC, Rotella T6, M1 0W-40, M1 Delvac 1300, would be my choices for the kind of heat Texas has.
If you want to go with low cost then Rotella T5 15W-40 would be a good oil.
You could probably use 5W-20 for winter Texas temperature, but starting off with a 20 for the top number is thin, even for 75 to 50 ambinet temps.
One of the things you should keep in mind is that most chemicla reactions double or half for every 10 degree C, or 18 degree F.
Keeping that in mind, think of oil as loosing half of its Viscosity for every increase of 18 degree F. The oil in an air cooled engine druing a normal use will probably reach 212 F if the ambient is 75 F. At 212 F most 30 weight (upper number) thin out to a 10 weight. And this is what your engien is designed to run at. If you are going to run that engine in Texas summer heat, you will require an oil that is above 30 weight to start with so when it is heated above 212 F it does not thin to something less than 10.
If you start with a 20 as the top number, you already lost the battle to keep your engine properly protected, because it will thin to less than 10 at 212 F when the engine is up to full operating temperature at 75 ambient.
Thanks for the suggestions I will keep my eye on the clearance sections for a bottle of something thicker. Cheap lesson learned compared to a new engine. Worst case is a bottle of dollar store SAE30 better than running the 5W-20?
Originally Posted By: Hootbro
Most B&S engines do not recommend a 5W-20 above freezing temps and will actually consume that weight of oil rather quickly.
I would not do it.
+1, no way id use that in a mower, buy some sae30 or 10w30 if youd like, and forget it!
Most B&S engines do not recommend a 5W-20 above freezing temps and will actually consume that weight of oil rather quickly.
I would not do it.
+1, no way id use that in a mower, buy some sae30 or 10w30 if youd like, and forget it!
Originally Posted By: someguy
Thanks for the suggestions I will keep my eye on the clearance sections for a bottle of something thicker. Cheap lesson learned compared to a new engine. Worst case is a bottle of dollar store SAE30 better than running the 5W-20?
If the API spec on the SAE30 oil is SJ or higher, then you will be fine. Stay away from the cheap SA spec oil.
For about $4 you can get B&S labeled oil in the correct 18oz bottle at most Wal-Marts, Lowes or Home Depots. For that matter, less than $3, you can get a good name brand full quart of SAE30 oil. Do not understand why the insistence on being super cheap and seeking out dollar store oil?
Thanks for the suggestions I will keep my eye on the clearance sections for a bottle of something thicker. Cheap lesson learned compared to a new engine. Worst case is a bottle of dollar store SAE30 better than running the 5W-20?
If the API spec on the SAE30 oil is SJ or higher, then you will be fine. Stay away from the cheap SA spec oil.
For about $4 you can get B&S labeled oil in the correct 18oz bottle at most Wal-Marts, Lowes or Home Depots. For that matter, less than $3, you can get a good name brand full quart of SAE30 oil. Do not understand why the insistence on being super cheap and seeking out dollar store oil?
Hootbro I've asked friends and neighbors and everybody I know just dumps whatever they have sitting around in their mower. It seems that most people never change the oil but occasionally top off.
I did the 18oz bottle last year but the engine specs 20 so I had to top off anyway so that was just annoying. I was just planning to buy wherever it happens to be convenient since I'm good on the cars for now.
I did the 18oz bottle last year but the engine specs 20 so I had to top off anyway so that was just annoying. I was just planning to buy wherever it happens to be convenient since I'm good on the cars for now.
Originally Posted By: someguy
Hootbro I've asked friends and neighbors and everybody I know just dumps whatever they have sitting around in their mower. It seems that most people never change the oil but occasionally top off.
I did the 18oz bottle last year but the engine specs 20 so I had to top off anyway so that was just annoying. I was just planning to buy wherever it happens to be convenient since I'm good on the cars for now.
To each his own I guess. Those engines will run on vegetable oil if they had to.
I am sure your engine will not explode, but just watch for consumption.
Hootbro I've asked friends and neighbors and everybody I know just dumps whatever they have sitting around in their mower. It seems that most people never change the oil but occasionally top off.
I did the 18oz bottle last year but the engine specs 20 so I had to top off anyway so that was just annoying. I was just planning to buy wherever it happens to be convenient since I'm good on the cars for now.
To each his own I guess. Those engines will run on vegetable oil if they had to.
I am sure your engine will not explode, but just watch for consumption.
Run what the manufacturer recommends. I would neither run 5W-20 nor 15W-50. Stick with something in the 30wt range with the proper rating. 10W-30, 5W-30 or just straight 30W.
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