Awaiting new Hyundai Theta II Engine Install

[Bigvman23]

What does Eco mode do exactly other than change the shift points?

Even just changing the shift points, under an average "load"/throttle input, eco mode wants to get to the next gear pretty quickly. Too quickly most of the time i'd argue, keeping rpm way down and really lugging the engine. That's not good for it and can lead to excessive carbon buildup, especially if it's driven like that all the time. I used to keep mine in eco mode all the time, (I'm all about that MPG) but I now keep it in normal mode around town and country road driving. Eco only on highway/interstate now. I also give it the ol "Italian tune up" 2-3 times a tank of gas, especially right before a fill-up, getting those rpm way up there for a bit. Doing that increases pressure in the cylinder and puts some heat in there as well, all good for helping minimize carbon buildup on the piston and around the rings, which is super important for today's modern engines and especially GDI engines. Now if it only worked on the exhaust valves like that. Oh well.

 

[walterjay]

I would say yes. With the dilution they have 3k miles is sadly probably ideal.

I change my 2017 Theta II every 3,500 miles. Use 5W-30 exclusively and never use Eco mode.

 

[tired]

Where do I find evidence that M1 ESP 0-30 isn't just Grp III

Why are you worried about that? It's the performance that matters.

VOAs show high oxidation indicating ester content.

 

[MParr]

What does Eco mode do exactly other than change the shift points?

Lug the engine.

 

[Brigadier]

Why are you worried about that? It's the performance that matters.

VOAs show high oxidation indicating ester content.

I guess you didn't read my OP. Oh well.

 

[Brigadier]

There was no lawsuit. And why does base stock matter here? That oil carries several demanding approvals including VW 504 00 which is an actual performance metric rather than Internet blather about bases. For one thing, not all Group III base stocks are the same either.

That thing about Mobil "losing" and selling Group III bases as synthetic (afterwards) is way overhyped on the web. Mobil themselves were selling Group III base stocks worldwide as synthetics for years prior to the NAD decision. Mobil knew that if it did proceed to an actual lawsuit they would lose, but given there was no law involved (only marketing guidelines) the whole thing was a bit of a red herring.

So, you admit that M1 is Gp III. I don't believe Gp III 'synthetics' are enough for GDI engines, especially Hyundais. I said this in my OP. YMMV. Use what you want. Don't be offended if I use a better oil.

 

[kschachn]

So, you admit that M1 is Gp III. I don't believe Gp III 'synthetics' are enough for GDI engines, especially Hyundais. I said this in my OP. YMMV. Use what you want. Don't be offended if I use a better oil.

I really don’t care about base stocks. I care about the proven metrics of what an approval gives.

What does a Group IV do for you in regards to GDI?

 

[kschachn]

IMO, regular Gp III oils are no match for some of these GDI engines. They need help like the aforementioned ZRA, or a real synthetic PAO/Ester based oil.

Please explain how this helps. In technical terms.

 

[pbm]

I haven't read the entire 6 pages of 'posts' in this thread but here's my opinion...it's not the oil it's the engine.
Kirkland 5w30 should work fine in this non 'high performance' engine but the Theta II was a bad engine. IDK if it's because of the 'metal shavings' alleged to have been left in them at the factory or just poor engineering but as a guy who has owned 3 Hyundai's I now avoid the brand.

If somebody can confirm that H/K has gotten their act together on the new 2.5 engine I may once again consider them? It's sad that H/K kept selling these turds even after knowing their issues but their not the first company to do so....remember the Ford Focus A/T (Powershift IIRC) that killed what was otherwise a good car line....Ford sold it from 2012 to 2018 knowing it was flawed....they could have substituted a regular A/T and saved that model.

 

[tired]

I guess you didn't read my OP. Oh well.

I did. I don't think you understand. Who cares about what the base stocks are if it meets a demanding approval like MB 229.5?

Have fun running Red Line in your Hyundai. I'm sure P66 appreciates your contribution.

BTW: Here's a guy who ran Red Line since new in a Kia, with 4000 mile OCIs, and he still burned oil, that he is resolving with VRP, which is "just" a group III oil.

 

[Chris142]

What? For a faulty crank sensor and the car needs a new engine? C.mon. the dealer wants $$$ for a new engine. Dealer's not billing you, they're billing Hyundai

That particular code means the senser has picked up a knock that can't be stopped no matter how much it retards timing. It's usually #3 rod letting go.