Auto-Rx ..... SNAKE OIL or a real additive?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Pontual
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
The theory behind this product is that it's an ester and esters are highly polar. The thinking is that the esters will seek to bond to the metal parts and will displace deposits in the process.
I've run a few doses of ARX through a few engines.
You can absolutely see results.
I followed the instructions to the letter, which include avoiding syn oil when using a cleaning dose of ARX.
The company head used to be a site sponsor and some members of the time took delight in baiting him, which was easy since he always rose to the bait. One member claimed to have been comped cases of ARX in return for his writing nice things about it on this site, but he's long gone and that claim was never independently verified either way.
This is at least a safe product that will do no harm, which may not be the case with certain others touted as having strong cleaning performance.
These days, if I had an engine that was so heavily sludged as to be near its end unless it could be cleaned out, I'd probably try Kreen as a first resort.
In an engine in needed of a little TLC, maybe with a seeping RMS, I'd try something a little less extreme first, like ARX.


That's Baby Wipes Lanolin Esters. Should smell good when hot!


Really?
And you have what data to back this up?
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Before you buy it ask about the money back guarantee, they no longer offer.
lol.gif


There are superior products that really work and do have a real money back guarantee that cost less than half.


01.gif
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Originally Posted By: Pontual
That's Baby Wipes Lanolin Esters. Should smell good when hot!


Really?
And you have what data to back this up?


The patent looks clearly more like a "biodiesel" manufactured from Lanolin, using a number of different molecular sized alcohols.
 
I used it with noticeable results on two earlier model Saturn SL oil burners. In both engines, two clean phases cut oil consumption down by half or more. Would two short intervals with RedLine have done any better? Would modern day conventionals do just as well? It's anyone's guess. It worked for me in those engines over a decade ago though. Both were followed up with Rotella T 5w40 in spite of the "no synthetics during the 'rinse' phase" recommendation without any ill effect.

It didn't make any noticeable difference some years later in a TDI I had with some mild oil consumption issues. The oil consumption did get resolved after 30 or 40 thousand miles of quality synthetics in that one though.

--Matt
 
Last edited:
I replaced a rocker cover gasket on v6 3800 commodore and this stopped the rocker cover oil weep.

Around 5000km after the rocker cover replacement I did an ARX clean for approx 4000km rinse cycle and the rocker cover gasket that had just been replaced weeped oil again at about 2000km into the cycle.

The weep never stopped even with mineral oil. I wasted my time and money.

I will not use or recommend this product.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Slick17601
At one time Auto-Rx was the absolute darling of this board...it has fallen off the radar screen in recent years.
 
http://www.auto-rx.com/oils/
source of the below.

"If you choose to run Auto-Rx® Plus in a full-synthetic PAO-base oil (such as Mobil 1), you must increase the cleaning phase and rinsing mileage to 4,000 miles. PAO-based oils do not accept additives readily. They need coupling esters to hold the additive package in suspension. These coupling esters compete for the same space on metal surfaces as do the cleaning esters of Auto-Rx® Plus, which slows down the cleaning action and takes longer. Also, the PAO oils are not a good choice in the rinse phase because those coupling esters make the oil cling to metal, which interferes with Auto-Rx® Plus being able to rinse the metal surfaces fully. Therefore, if you use this type of oil, the cleaning process may not work as well as with conventional oils. All engines, including turbos, work well using conventional oil with Auto-Rx® Plus.

Some oils to consider for use when cleaning with Auto-Rx® Plus:

Shell Rotella T
Castrol GTX
Pennzoil in the yellow bottle
Pennzoil Group III Platinum
Mobil Super 5000
Conoco Phillips
Trop Arctic"

Rotella T6 5W-40 is NOT PAO based motor oil but cracked dino oil so it is fine.

I use Archoil AR9100 because it cleans (uses esters) like Auto Rx plus it has friction modifiers that Auto Rx does not have. AR2300 seems to be about the same thing as Auto Rx I gather. http://www.archoil.com/ar2300-nano-fluid-system-cleaner/

The need for the uses of this class of oil additive can be quite controversial.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Well quite an interesting back story. A chemist who is out front and doing PR on his product.

And good to hear that it does not harm. It would suck to dislodge a flake of varnish rather than disolve and hit a bearing.


Are you suggesting running ARX in an engine with no pickup screen and no oil filter? If not then it would be virtually impossible for said flake to hit said bearing.

That said, I still consider ARX akin to l'huile de serpent.
 
Last edited:
I've used it with good results. I picked up an used Volvo 960 that had 66K on the clock with what I would call bare minimum maintenance. Dino oil changes from day one. My cams and rockers looked like someone poured chocolate syrup over them, then let it bake on.

It wasn't sludge but a nasty thick chocolate colored varnish.

I used Auto RX, following the directions to the letter and when I was done both the rockers and camshafts were the color of brand new pennies. No they didn't return to brand spanking new aluminum or steel color but a very bright copper color.

It worked as described and I was very happy with the results. I probably could have done four or five synthetic oil changes and got the same cleaning done but not as quickly as I saw with one oil change and rinse. I really don't think the polished copper look of the valve train that occurred, would have happened without the Auto-RX.

I don't know if I had a major sludge problem if I would use it initially. Probably do two or three short oil changes with a "Cleaning" oil and then finish up with the Auto-RX once the worst of the problem was dealt with.
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
It works as advertised. The problem is that it works very slow and most people have an attention span that does not do slow.......

If you have a sludge problem and Auto-Rx does not "fix" it then it was beyond the realm of help other than a mechanical repair. In other words, it's worth the expense and effort before tearing down or selling your ride.
This is where I am. Before I pop the top off my engine and have it rebuilt I want to try to remove the sludge. I have been warned not to do it fast because you don't want chunks floating around your engine that could clog up your oil pump and then blow your entire engine. I am debating between using Marvel Mystery oil, Auto_RX, Seafoam and Kreen. Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of each? I hope I am not opening a pandoras box and this become a heated debate. I am just trying to make a decision on which is best for my 2003 ford explorer 4.6L.
 
We've used Kreen for years here. Auto RX was tried, failed to provide any noticeable results, and a refund was denied.

Kreen has been around since 1939 and has an honest guarantee. I have used it in about a dozen beater type cars and fleet trucks and in at least half of them the results were amazing.

I will always have a can or two here from now on. It is also a fantastic fuel system cleaner...
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Originally Posted By: Pontual
That's Baby Wipes Lanolin Esters. Should smell good when hot!


Really?
And you have what data to back this up?


The patent looks clearly more like a "biodiesel" manufactured from Lanolin, using a number of different molecular sized alcohols.


But the thing is thick as a corrugated paper box glue.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
We've used Kreen for years here. Auto RX was tried, failed to provide any noticeable results, and a refund was denied.

Kreen has been around since 1939 and has an honest guarantee. I have used it in about a dozen beater type cars and fleet trucks and in at least half of them the results were amazing.

I will always have a can or two here from now on. It is also a fantastic fuel system cleaner...

Can you please provide me a link to where you buy Kreen? Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Motsiball
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
We've used Kreen for years here. Auto RX was tried, failed to provide any noticeable results, and a refund was denied.

Kreen has been around since 1939 and has an honest guarantee. I have used it in about a dozen beater type cars and fleet trucks and in at least half of them the results were amazing.

I will always have a can or two here from now on. It is also a fantastic fuel system cleaner...

Can you please provide me a link to where you buy Kreen? Thanks!


Links to non-sponsoring products doesn't go over well here, it breaks forum rules. Google KANO Labs, and look for Kreen. It's a great product. HTH
 
I posted a trial of Auto-RX here over a decade ago, on a used Subaru XT-6. It used oil, and no amount of HDEO nor various viscosity changes over thousands of miles helped. I ran a compression test, and found one of the 6 cylinders was well below factory spec. I ran the Auto-RX according to the instructions at the time. I ran another compression test at the end of it all, and the compression on the low hole was comfortably back within factory spec. It also used much less oil thereafter, though I no longer recall whether it stopped entirely or not. The product worked properly and as advertised. I have used it in other applications since then, though none have needed anything like the help that Subie did.
 
I've seen so many pros and cons about the product commented in the topic that I don't believe in its reviews and some of the reviwers. Only trying by myself I could get a conclusion. But even the late Garry A. played in both sides and I don't know if he really changed his opinion over time.
 
Originally Posted By: Ohle_Manezzini
I've seen so many pros and cons about the product commented in the topic that I don't believe in its reviews and some of the reviwers. Only trying by myself I could get a conclusion. But even the late Garry A. played in both sides and I don't know if he really changed his opinion over time.


How do you know that, aren't you new here?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top