That's a good question. You might want to consider starting a seperate thread in the used oil analysis section.
Auto-RX in 3.0L Camry
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Sounds interesting.
I couldn't be bothered with used oil analysis myself as rust or the car will begin to nickel and dime me to death and that usually sends it down the road long before the engine dies.
Maybe someone else would be willing.
I couldn't be bothered with used oil analysis myself as rust or the car will begin to nickel and dime me to death and that usually sends it down the road long before the engine dies.
Maybe someone else would be willing.
Well, the point would really be to independently vet Kreen on an engine that's solid enough it's not going to need work during the test date range, thereby calling into question Kreen (positive or negative). I'd be willing to do it, but, I'm just not putting any significant miles on my truck - it'd take years.
You'd need someone willing who's got a solid engine, runs a lot of miles, and knows how to obtain a sample correctly each time. I think the hardest part is finding such a person....the used oil analysis and the Kreen is just money, with enough people contributing, that's usually doable.
Chuck
You'd need someone willing who's got a solid engine, runs a lot of miles, and knows how to obtain a sample correctly each time. I think the hardest part is finding such a person....the used oil analysis and the Kreen is just money, with enough people contributing, that's usually doable.
Chuck
Well, as I mentioned before I talked to the owner of small local shop, with cheapest labor charge in town. To remove valve cover, drop the pan (front axle needs to be dropped I believe) and clean all that [censored] will be around 450$. To change piston rings labor will be around 1400-1500. Swap engine 1600. Sorry but I'm not going to spend that kind of money on 12 year old car, that I got for 3500. I better keep until it dies as spare and also get Porsche 944 turbo (love that commercial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dvTVk0doJJM )and have fun with it. Or just get new Mazda ( I got discounts with my company).
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Wow, that really sucks it so much!
How much longer until you do your next Auto-RX milestone?
Chuck
How much longer until you do your next Auto-RX milestone?
Chuck
Originally Posted By: chucky2
Wow, that really sucks it so much!
How much longer until you do your next Auto-RX milestone?
Chuck
Next will be filter change at 2500, about 300 miles to go.
Wow, that really sucks it so much!
How much longer until you do your next Auto-RX milestone?
Chuck
Next will be filter change at 2500, about 300 miles to go.
If you haven't already, I'd make the suggestion again to go with the thinnest dino the manufacturer recommends in your engine...increased flow at the expense of viscosity and/or HTHS I think is more preferable at this point.
Changed oil filter today. Now it has Bosh. Seems it eats less oil now, and smokes less, maybe because it is getting warm, or because I mainly drive on highway again.
Shoot, knew I should have posted that last night!
Which oil did you use to fill the filter and top up with?
Highway runs are good for Auto-RX. I think some people years ago here reported in a thread that they had actual working temp guages for their engine oil, and it took around 20 minutes of operations before the oil was up to operating temp. Given that Auto-RX works best when hot (some would say lots better when hot), the longer the operation you can keep the engine in, the better as far as Auto-RX goes.
Chuck
Which oil did you use to fill the filter and top up with?
Highway runs are good for Auto-RX. I think some people years ago here reported in a thread that they had actual working temp guages for their engine oil, and it took around 20 minutes of operations before the oil was up to operating temp. Given that Auto-RX works best when hot (some would say lots better when hot), the longer the operation you can keep the engine in, the better as far as Auto-RX goes.
Chuck
Originally Posted By: chucky2
Shoot, knew I should have posted that last night!
Which oil did you use to fill the filter and top up with?
Highway runs are good for Auto-RX. I think some people years ago here reported in a thread that they had actual working temp guages for their engine oil, and it took around 20 minutes of operations before the oil was up to operating temp. Given that Auto-RX works best when hot (some would say lots better when hot), the longer the operation you can keep the engine in, the better as far as Auto-RX goes.
Chuck
I still have some Supertech left in my trunk, added it. It's 5w30. Also I have 1 more jug of 10w-40 Supertech that I bought last summer for different car, thought to use it next for top offs, since it gets warmer and I need to use it anyway, somewhere.
Shoot, knew I should have posted that last night!
Which oil did you use to fill the filter and top up with?
Highway runs are good for Auto-RX. I think some people years ago here reported in a thread that they had actual working temp guages for their engine oil, and it took around 20 minutes of operations before the oil was up to operating temp. Given that Auto-RX works best when hot (some would say lots better when hot), the longer the operation you can keep the engine in, the better as far as Auto-RX goes.
Chuck
I still have some Supertech left in my trunk, added it. It's 5w30. Also I have 1 more jug of 10w-40 Supertech that I bought last summer for different car, thought to use it next for top offs, since it gets warmer and I need to use it anyway, somewhere.
I don't think the 10W-40 would hurt, but, if you've got that much sludge deposit, you need flow, which means you're going to want to use the thinnest oil you can use in there, not a heavier oil. The cheapest well rated 5w20 conventional is pretty cheap, I say save the 10W-40 for down the road...
Chuck
Chuck
I will use it only to top off, it will be filled with 5-30 or 5-20 first.
Oh, I thought you had to change the filter (around 1/4 to 1/2 quart you'd need to add just for that), and then you're consuming also. That's why I was saying, keep using the thinnest dino when you do that, so your viscosity stays as low as possible, for as much flow as possible. Auto-RX has always been about heat and flow. The higher the heat (within reason of course) and the more flow, the better it cleans.
Chuck
Chuck
Originally Posted By: chucky2
Auto-RX has always been about heat and flow. The higher the heat (within reason of course) and the more flow, the better it cleans.
What are we to say to the SOCCER MOMS out there who do short trip driving. If auto-rx is to really work, then how long do users of this product need to drive there cars everyday.
Auto-RX has always been about heat and flow. The higher the heat (within reason of course) and the more flow, the better it cleans.
What are we to say to the SOCCER MOMS out there who do short trip driving. If auto-rx is to really work, then how long do users of this product need to drive there cars everyday.
Originally Posted By: PontiacFan
Originally Posted By: chucky2
Auto-RX has always been about heat and flow. The higher the heat (within reason of course) and the more flow, the better it cleans.
What are we to say to the SOCCER MOMS out there who do short trip driving. If auto-rx is to really work, then how long do users of this product need to drive there cars everyday.
Beats me, go over and ask at Auto-rx.com, I'm just saying, as long as I've been following Auto-RX, it's long been accepted that it works best in the high heat areas, and/or, areas that get a lot of flow. If you had a really sludged engine that had poor flow, and only took it on very short trip driving, I'd imagine that Auto-RX likely wouldn't be the product of choice.
Then again, I doubt too many people who would use Auto-RX are interested in getting poor results, which means if it takes longer trips, that's what they'll try and do to get some kind of results.
To each their own I say...
Chuck
Originally Posted By: chucky2
Auto-RX has always been about heat and flow. The higher the heat (within reason of course) and the more flow, the better it cleans.
What are we to say to the SOCCER MOMS out there who do short trip driving. If auto-rx is to really work, then how long do users of this product need to drive there cars everyday.
Beats me, go over and ask at Auto-rx.com, I'm just saying, as long as I've been following Auto-RX, it's long been accepted that it works best in the high heat areas, and/or, areas that get a lot of flow. If you had a really sludged engine that had poor flow, and only took it on very short trip driving, I'd imagine that Auto-RX likely wouldn't be the product of choice.
Then again, I doubt too many people who would use Auto-RX are interested in getting poor results, which means if it takes longer trips, that's what they'll try and do to get some kind of results.
To each their own I say...
Chuck
Little update.
Well right now oil burning bugs me more than thought that I might have sludge.
Recently I did round-trip for little more than 200 miles with average speed of 75 mph. Topped off oil before trip, checked after. After it was almost at low level mark, about 3-4 mm above the mark. So almost a quarter for under 300 miles. There was freezing temperatures at night again, and snow, day was around 40-45.
I did order and add almost full can of Liqui Moly MoS2 Antifriction Engine Treatment [link removed], which I found for less than 5$ at local Napa store. After driving for little more than 100 miles with it, there is much less smoke at start up, after car sits for long time (more than 3 hours, if it was not running for less time, there is no smoke at all,like it was before). Also engine starts easier, and I think little less vibration at idle, little higher rpms.
Also I received Oil saver yesterday, and added it. [link removed] Will keep checking oil to see does it helps, both chemicals. As I read threads here, and on couple European forums, Moly additive and moly oils are highly recommended for high mileage worn engines.
Well right now oil burning bugs me more than thought that I might have sludge.
Recently I did round-trip for little more than 200 miles with average speed of 75 mph. Topped off oil before trip, checked after. After it was almost at low level mark, about 3-4 mm above the mark. So almost a quarter for under 300 miles. There was freezing temperatures at night again, and snow, day was around 40-45.
I did order and add almost full can of Liqui Moly MoS2 Antifriction Engine Treatment [link removed], which I found for less than 5$ at local Napa store. After driving for little more than 100 miles with it, there is much less smoke at start up, after car sits for long time (more than 3 hours, if it was not running for less time, there is no smoke at all,like it was before). Also engine starts easier, and I think little less vibration at idle, little higher rpms.
Also I received Oil saver yesterday, and added it. [link removed] Will keep checking oil to see does it helps, both chemicals. As I read threads here, and on couple European forums, Moly additive and moly oils are highly recommended for high mileage worn engines.
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My plans are basically to thru the Liqui Moly line of chemicals. It's not gonna make thing worse.
Talked and had couple drinks yesterday with old European mechanic who recently moved here. Again he has 20+ years experienced, plus worked on track and offroad cars. He tried all the oils and chemicals that he was selling, on himself, relatives, coworkers, dogs and so on (I mean cars), before recommend it and put in customers car.He stated that he used Liqui Moly MoS2 Antifriction 10W-40 (I can get it at napa, it's syn blend with moly in it, silver colored)in his personal old Ford Scorpio, and it was running perfect. That's what I'm planning to put in next time. Also he stated that for my case(oil burner) and many other cases he seen best oil was Liqui Moly Synthoil Race Tech GT1 10W-60 (also availiable thu Napa). Said it's really hard to burn it, actually engine parts, were still covered with layer of oil (when they where taking engines apart) even if car was sitting off for more than 2 days. I'll try this oil too.
Talked and had couple drinks yesterday with old European mechanic who recently moved here. Again he has 20+ years experienced, plus worked on track and offroad cars. He tried all the oils and chemicals that he was selling, on himself, relatives, coworkers, dogs and so on (I mean cars), before recommend it and put in customers car.He stated that he used Liqui Moly MoS2 Antifriction 10W-40 (I can get it at napa, it's syn blend with moly in it, silver colored)in his personal old Ford Scorpio, and it was running perfect. That's what I'm planning to put in next time. Also he stated that for my case(oil burner) and many other cases he seen best oil was Liqui Moly Synthoil Race Tech GT1 10W-60 (also availiable thu Napa). Said it's really hard to burn it, actually engine parts, were still covered with layer of oil (when they where taking engines apart) even if car was sitting off for more than 2 days. I'll try this oil too.
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I decided to keep this car, until it dies and experiment with additives. My plan is: change oil filter at 3500 (3220 now), then another at 4500. Then oil change at 5500. Will put in Liqui Moly MoS2 Antifriction 10W-40 oil, with no ARX, keep it 3000 miles and filter change every 1000 miles. Then change to same oil and last bottle of ARX, keep it for 3000 with filters every 1000. Change again, same oil again, keeping 3000, filters every 1k miles. Then going back to normal diet. Depending on the time of the year will put Lubro Moly 10w-60 or 0w-40 both syn, will be good for 10k miles, planning to change filter at 5k, will probably use Bosch. If oil burning will still be severe, with 0w-40 winter oil, might switch it for Nippon 0w50 Full Syntec Japanese oil (will it glow in the dark after Fukusima blew up?
. Also planning to add Cera tech additive which is claimed to be better than Moly and used onces in 30k miles
Plus will add some valve cleaners and fuel system cleaners. Added about 4 fuel system cleaners, since got car (like Shell V-power, Chevron, and so on.)Last added was Lubro Moly Valve cleaner, which cleans fuel system too. Will inform about each additive. Right now car has 137k+ miles, after heat up runs like a clock, except for oil burning.
Also planning to do little tune up soon. Change air filter to KN&N high flow, fuel filter change, PVC valve again, and transmission oil to Lubro Moly Syntech 75W-90 + some moly for gears. Just looked underneath my car yesterday, it doesn't looks that anybody ever changed oil there. Might be trouble to unscrew drain and filler bolt, they look corroded and hard to take off. I have a question. How much oil to I put to this specific Gearbox? Girl at Napa told 4.4 quarts, but she was confused between Clutch fluid and Gearbox oil. It seems to much oil for transmission. Also might go to Europe next spring and try to get Liqui Moly 5W-50 Molygen Oil, as I know looks toxic green, and it's syntec with Moly. Found one and Ebay at GB but it's 15w-50 and 4 liter and they don't ship to USA. Also Found same but 5w-50 and Singapor, not sure about delivery and it cost there 96$ for 4 liter jug!!!
Plus will add some valve cleaners and fuel system cleaners. Added about 4 fuel system cleaners, since got car (like Shell V-power, Chevron, and so on.)Last added was Lubro Moly Valve cleaner, which cleans fuel system too. Will inform about each additive. Right now car has 137k+ miles, after heat up runs like a clock, except for oil burning.
Also planning to do little tune up soon. Change air filter to KN&N high flow, fuel filter change, PVC valve again, and transmission oil to Lubro Moly Syntech 75W-90 + some moly for gears. Just looked underneath my car yesterday, it doesn't looks that anybody ever changed oil there. Might be trouble to unscrew drain and filler bolt, they look corroded and hard to take off. I have a question. How much oil to I put to this specific Gearbox? Girl at Napa told 4.4 quarts, but she was confused between Clutch fluid and Gearbox oil. It seems to much oil for transmission. Also might go to Europe next spring and try to get Liqui Moly 5W-50 Molygen Oil, as I know looks toxic green, and it's syntec with Moly. Found one and Ebay at GB but it's 15w-50 and 4 liter and they don't ship to USA. Also Found same but 5w-50 and Singapor, not sure about delivery and it cost there 96$ for 4 liter jug!!!
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