Originally Posted By: chucky2
I haven't been on this site in quite some time, thought I'd just drop by and see what was going on, thought maybe I'd drop some thoughts on this thread:
1.) Auto-RX works best when hot. It can take 20 minutes for your oil - not coolant - to get up to operating (read: hot) temp. If the majority of your miles have been under 20 minutes, then you're not really putting the Auto-RX in a position to work like it should.
2.) Auto-RX works best in high flow areas. While I'm for sure not a mechanic, the scenario's described before about how this engine circulates oil sounded credible. Given that, my reasoning would be to use the thinnest oil Toyota has cleared for use for your current temps in your engine. If they've cleared 20W, then run a conventional 5W-20; not a 0W-20, those are synthetic and shouldn't be used while on the Auto-RX regime. Using the thinnest oil should allow the Auto-RX to get into/around/past as many places as it possibly can. I remember way back a pretty highly regarded poster named MolaKule advocated this, and it struck me as making sense. Unless there's some overriding reason to use a thicker oil than the minimum spec'd for your engine @ your current outside temps, thin is what I'd be using. As far as oils, just stick with the cheapest conventional oil you can find that's SL or SM and ILSAC IL-3 or IL-4 rated. No Pennzoil Platinum, Ultra, Rotella 5W-40 (which I think Shell confirmed had esters in it now, so, that's a no-no for Auto-RX).
3.) Without going back through the thread, it was mentioned to replace the PCV valve and the thermostat, I think if you haven't done this, it'd be a worthwhile - and cheap - preventative measure(s). From back when I was a regular lurker here, I do remember that 3rd party PCV's appeared to work, but, ended up not actually working correctly, and that OEM PCV's that appeared to be clean did not always work. As cheap as an OEM PCV would be from www.rockauto.com (check if your local stores have it for at least close to as cheap, support local businesses too!), this would seem to be a cheap and easy thing to rule out as contributing to your problems. Same thing for the thermostat...if you're running colder than you should, that doesn't help your engine or the Auto-RX (since it likes heat to work).
4.) I'm sure you don't have the receipts any longer, but, unless something has markedly changed (and given how many people are victims of their products, I would actually hope that's happened), Fram's haven't had the best track record for sealed filter elements and good bypasses. If it's at all possible, I wonder if a Motorcraft filter can cross-reference appropriately to your engine? If so, that might be a good idea to run one. Not only are they very well built, but their bypass is located in the front of the filter, so you won't be washing all the [censored] back into your engine at startup. If not, then a NAPA Gold/Wix would be the next good bet.
5.) This talk about using different chemical products while using Auto-RX doesn't sound advisable honestly. We (You) already don't know what's going on in there, even before the Auto-RX. Now it's not known what's happening with the Auto-RX. Adding to the risk of all the [censored] floating around in your engine, you're thinking about subjecting it to different chemical concoctions...how is that going to affect the seals in the engine? Answer: No one knows! IMO, just stick with the Auto-RX at this point, after the last rinse phase, run another 3k with just conventional, to make sure the seals are back to their nominal state, then start playing around with other stuff if you want.
I wish you luck!
Chuck
When I read this post, it tells me that sales of auto-rx are not doing very well, if this product really worked, then auto-rx would still be a sponsor on this board, am I missing something.
I haven't been on this site in quite some time, thought I'd just drop by and see what was going on, thought maybe I'd drop some thoughts on this thread:
1.) Auto-RX works best when hot. It can take 20 minutes for your oil - not coolant - to get up to operating (read: hot) temp. If the majority of your miles have been under 20 minutes, then you're not really putting the Auto-RX in a position to work like it should.
2.) Auto-RX works best in high flow areas. While I'm for sure not a mechanic, the scenario's described before about how this engine circulates oil sounded credible. Given that, my reasoning would be to use the thinnest oil Toyota has cleared for use for your current temps in your engine. If they've cleared 20W, then run a conventional 5W-20; not a 0W-20, those are synthetic and shouldn't be used while on the Auto-RX regime. Using the thinnest oil should allow the Auto-RX to get into/around/past as many places as it possibly can. I remember way back a pretty highly regarded poster named MolaKule advocated this, and it struck me as making sense. Unless there's some overriding reason to use a thicker oil than the minimum spec'd for your engine @ your current outside temps, thin is what I'd be using. As far as oils, just stick with the cheapest conventional oil you can find that's SL or SM and ILSAC IL-3 or IL-4 rated. No Pennzoil Platinum, Ultra, Rotella 5W-40 (which I think Shell confirmed had esters in it now, so, that's a no-no for Auto-RX).
3.) Without going back through the thread, it was mentioned to replace the PCV valve and the thermostat, I think if you haven't done this, it'd be a worthwhile - and cheap - preventative measure(s). From back when I was a regular lurker here, I do remember that 3rd party PCV's appeared to work, but, ended up not actually working correctly, and that OEM PCV's that appeared to be clean did not always work. As cheap as an OEM PCV would be from www.rockauto.com (check if your local stores have it for at least close to as cheap, support local businesses too!), this would seem to be a cheap and easy thing to rule out as contributing to your problems. Same thing for the thermostat...if you're running colder than you should, that doesn't help your engine or the Auto-RX (since it likes heat to work).
4.) I'm sure you don't have the receipts any longer, but, unless something has markedly changed (and given how many people are victims of their products, I would actually hope that's happened), Fram's haven't had the best track record for sealed filter elements and good bypasses. If it's at all possible, I wonder if a Motorcraft filter can cross-reference appropriately to your engine? If so, that might be a good idea to run one. Not only are they very well built, but their bypass is located in the front of the filter, so you won't be washing all the [censored] back into your engine at startup. If not, then a NAPA Gold/Wix would be the next good bet.
5.) This talk about using different chemical products while using Auto-RX doesn't sound advisable honestly. We (You) already don't know what's going on in there, even before the Auto-RX. Now it's not known what's happening with the Auto-RX. Adding to the risk of all the [censored] floating around in your engine, you're thinking about subjecting it to different chemical concoctions...how is that going to affect the seals in the engine? Answer: No one knows! IMO, just stick with the Auto-RX at this point, after the last rinse phase, run another 3k with just conventional, to make sure the seals are back to their nominal state, then start playing around with other stuff if you want.
I wish you luck!
Chuck
When I read this post, it tells me that sales of auto-rx are not doing very well, if this product really worked, then auto-rx would still be a sponsor on this board, am I missing something.
