I've been watching this topic because I'm running AutoRx in a 3.0L sienna. I am at about 850 miles so far. I think I'm supposed to change the filter at 1250 miles but it seems they removed the sludge instructions from the website. However, I don't think I have sludge. I got this engine with 60k miles and the Denso PCV (probably original) was not clogged. The oil on the dipstick is still very light colored FWIW. I plan to cut open the filter at 1250 miles and expect it to be relatively clean.
Auto-RX in 3.0L Camry
- Thread starter zyxelenator
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Originally Posted By: PontiacFan
Originally Posted By: badtlc
and your independent tests remark doesn't make any sense. someone has to pay for it. have you ever seen a customer shell out their own dollars for no personal gain? Nobody pays for a test w/out some vested interest.
I am wondering how much auto-rx has paid on Research and Development, this 3rd party statement has me thinking they have not really tested this product. JMO
27 posts ..all negative about Auto-Rx ...interesting .. I love these little sessions ..same characters and a few new ones doing the same thing. Taking an Auto-rx thread and turning it into an MMO or (what's that stuff) Kreen infomercial.
I don't know what it looks life from inside your heads ..but from the outside ..it's like a wart on your nose the size of a quarter. Just can't deny it.
Oh, Frank shared the stats with me on where most sales come from. It's BITOG ..
Keep up the good work. Frank sends his regards and thanks you all for your support ..albeit totally unintended.
See you in a few months to see if y'all are still spinning around here. "Til then ..ado!
Originally Posted By: badtlc
and your independent tests remark doesn't make any sense. someone has to pay for it. have you ever seen a customer shell out their own dollars for no personal gain? Nobody pays for a test w/out some vested interest.
I am wondering how much auto-rx has paid on Research and Development, this 3rd party statement has me thinking they have not really tested this product. JMO
27 posts ..all negative about Auto-Rx ...interesting .. I love these little sessions ..same characters and a few new ones doing the same thing. Taking an Auto-rx thread and turning it into an MMO or (what's that stuff) Kreen infomercial.
I don't know what it looks life from inside your heads ..but from the outside ..it's like a wart on your nose the size of a quarter. Just can't deny it.
Oh, Frank shared the stats with me on where most sales come from. It's BITOG ..
Keep up the good work. Frank sends his regards and thanks you all for your support ..albeit totally unintended.
See you in a few months to see if y'all are still spinning around here. "Til then ..ado!
Originally Posted By: FL-400S
I've been watching this topic because I'm running AutoRx in a 3.0L sienna. I am at about 850 miles so far. I think I'm supposed to change the filter at 1250 miles but it seems they removed the sludge instructions from the website. However, I don't think I have sludge. I got this engine with 60k miles and the Denso PCV (probably original) was not clogged. The oil on the dipstick is still very light colored FWIW. I plan to cut open the filter at 1250 miles and expect it to be relatively clean.
E-mail them, they will send personal custom instructions based on your driving habit.
I've been watching this topic because I'm running AutoRx in a 3.0L sienna. I am at about 850 miles so far. I think I'm supposed to change the filter at 1250 miles but it seems they removed the sludge instructions from the website. However, I don't think I have sludge. I got this engine with 60k miles and the Denso PCV (probably original) was not clogged. The oil on the dipstick is still very light colored FWIW. I plan to cut open the filter at 1250 miles and expect it to be relatively clean.
E-mail them, they will send personal custom instructions based on your driving habit.
Anyway, car drinks oil pretty bad,(maybe hides it in glove box?) I believe it's a third quarter I added today. Only 1000 miles from change. First was Regular 5w-30 Penzoil, second Ultra 5w-30, third Regular again 10w-30. I guess will try 5 or 10w-40 next quart. And will make sure there is no old gasket left under filter. There is no leak, my dad is paranoiac about any spots on his driveway, haven"t spotted any so far, since I got a car.
Originally Posted By: Mystic
PontiacFan I was a big Auto-RX supporter here for a long time because the stuff actually seemed to stop a seal leak
Can you tell us why you are no longer a big Auto-Rx supporter.
Quote:
. But I agree it is really thick and I never liked the idea of adding it to oil in cold weather. I think the summer months are better for a product like this.
+1
Quote:
MMO is the exact opposite and will actually help the oil flow better in the wintertime, plus MMO is cheaper and more readily available.
+1 again
Quote:
I am giving MMO a trial in my oil right now
Please keep us updated on your results, how many OCI's do you plan on using MMO
PontiacFan I was a big Auto-RX supporter here for a long time because the stuff actually seemed to stop a seal leak
Can you tell us why you are no longer a big Auto-Rx supporter.
Quote:
. But I agree it is really thick and I never liked the idea of adding it to oil in cold weather. I think the summer months are better for a product like this.
+1
Quote:
MMO is the exact opposite and will actually help the oil flow better in the wintertime, plus MMO is cheaper and more readily available.
+1 again
Quote:
I am giving MMO a trial in my oil right now
Please keep us updated on your results, how many OCI's do you plan on using MMO
PontiacFan I don't know how long you have been a member so you may not know about all of the things that have happened here. I was a big supporter of Auto-RX for a long time because it actually seemed to stop a seal leak. Did it also clean my engine? I don't know. I think what turned me off more than anything else was when a guy here said that he had been paid (in money or product) to promote the product. I have no idea if that is correct or not but that entire situation disturbed me quite a bit.
And I have never seen any really conclusive evidence presented here that Auto-RX really cleans engines. Maybe it does and maybe it does not. I personally am willing to say that it might have some ability to stop seal leaks.
I have not been using MMO in my oil very long so I will wait until I have something to report. MMO is much cheaper than Auto-RX and more readily available. MMO is certainly a cheap experiment.
I am a straight forward kind of guy. I will report what I discover-good or bad or no apparent results.
And I have never seen any really conclusive evidence presented here that Auto-RX really cleans engines. Maybe it does and maybe it does not. I personally am willing to say that it might have some ability to stop seal leaks.
I have not been using MMO in my oil very long so I will wait until I have something to report. MMO is much cheaper than Auto-RX and more readily available. MMO is certainly a cheap experiment.
I am a straight forward kind of guy. I will report what I discover-good or bad or no apparent results.
Gary, I have always known you to give thought before speaking. This really has turned into a circus. I have never seen so much diligence to trash a product. Seems personal. More than a Ford vs Chevy kind of thing. Kind of pathetic really.
Today got a gallon of Rotella T6 5w-40, topped off, noticed that one of negative cables is disconnected from battery.Never saw it before, well, cleaned both cables connected it back, car seems to have less vibration in steering wheel on idle. I guess it's more due to oil added. Hope it will reduce usage.
Got a dilemma.After thinking for a while, 20 grade oil will have better flow to clean up sludged engine. Right? And less loads on oil pump. On the other side my engine burns oil,so I added 40 grade to slow down burning.
Should I stick with 20, 30 or 40 weight?
Logically I should stick with 20 grade for better flow until ARX treatment in progress, and then switch back to 30 or 40 grade to see if it will help to reduce oil consumption.
The best option is to get another car, but not right now, and I'm kinda interested to experiment. Any recommendations by grade in my case?
Should I stick with 20, 30 or 40 weight?
Logically I should stick with 20 grade for better flow until ARX treatment in progress, and then switch back to 30 or 40 grade to see if it will help to reduce oil consumption.
The best option is to get another car, but not right now, and I'm kinda interested to experiment. Any recommendations by grade in my case?
Originally Posted By: Mystic
PontiacFan I don't know how long you have been a member so you may not know about all of the things that have happened here.
I have been a member since January 20th, 2011.
Quote:
I think what turned me off more than anything else was when a guy here said that he had been paid (in money or product) to promote the product. I have no idea if that is correct or not but that entire situation disturbed me quite a bit.
If a product really worked for me then I would not care if someone was paid to promote that product. But, if the product did not work, and I found out someone was being paid to push the product, then I would be upset.
Quote:
MMO is much cheaper than Auto-RX and more readily available. MMO is certainly a cheap experiment.
+1
Quote:
I am a straight forward kind of guy. I will report what I discover-good or bad or no apparent results
Sounds like you are not a Paid Poster For Auto-Rx or any other oil additive that is discussed here on this site. Good Luck, will be waiting for your results.
PontiacFan I don't know how long you have been a member so you may not know about all of the things that have happened here.
I have been a member since January 20th, 2011.
Quote:
I think what turned me off more than anything else was when a guy here said that he had been paid (in money or product) to promote the product. I have no idea if that is correct or not but that entire situation disturbed me quite a bit.
If a product really worked for me then I would not care if someone was paid to promote that product. But, if the product did not work, and I found out someone was being paid to push the product, then I would be upset.
Quote:
MMO is much cheaper than Auto-RX and more readily available. MMO is certainly a cheap experiment.
+1
Quote:
I am a straight forward kind of guy. I will report what I discover-good or bad or no apparent results
Sounds like you are not a Paid Poster For Auto-Rx or any other oil additive that is discussed here on this site. Good Luck, will be waiting for your results.
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
. Any recommendations by grade in my case?
Until you finish your AutoRX cycle, stick with the 5w30.
When you're done with the autorx runs, then go with whatever you want(I'd go a little thicker to compare consumption).
What is the current consumption qts/mile?
. Any recommendations by grade in my case?
Until you finish your AutoRX cycle, stick with the 5w30.
When you're done with the autorx runs, then go with whatever you want(I'd go a little thicker to compare consumption).
What is the current consumption qts/mile?
Originally Posted By: unDummy
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
. Any recommendations by grade in my case?
Until you finish your AutoRX cycle, stick with the 5w30.
When you're done with the autorx runs, then go with whatever you want(I'd go a little thicker to compare consumption).
What is the current consumption qts/mile?
Horrible, It's only around 1100 miles after I changed oil and I already added 3 quart bottles and about half of gallon. It is been cold here and mostly short city trips, with lots of cold start ups.
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
. Any recommendations by grade in my case?
Until you finish your AutoRX cycle, stick with the 5w30.
When you're done with the autorx runs, then go with whatever you want(I'd go a little thicker to compare consumption).
What is the current consumption qts/mile?
Horrible, It's only around 1100 miles after I changed oil and I already added 3 quart bottles and about half of gallon. It is been cold here and mostly short city trips, with lots of cold start ups.
With that expense, I would definitely consider the 0w40, 5w40, 10w40, 5w50... for top offs. This will break the, do not use synthetic rule, with autorx.
For a test, give it a 1 quart top off of Lucas or equivalent 1st. This shouldn't affect your autorx run. Do not use more than 1 quart of oil honey in an oil interval. But, with your consumption, you could probably add a quart of motorhoney after every 6 quarts of consumption.
Any one of these for testing
or hypersnot
STP, Gunk, CRC... have pint sized equivalents. Buy in pairs.
sonofagun
gunkitup
For a test, give it a 1 quart top off of Lucas or equivalent 1st. This shouldn't affect your autorx run. Do not use more than 1 quart of oil honey in an oil interval. But, with your consumption, you could probably add a quart of motorhoney after every 6 quarts of consumption.
Any one of these for testing
or hypersnot
STP, Gunk, CRC... have pint sized equivalents. Buy in pairs.
sonofagun
gunkitup
sounds like it may be time for a rebuild if its that bad
Originally Posted By: electrolover
sounds like it may be time for a rebuild if its that bad
Problem is, we can't even get him to pull off the valve cover for a picture. And, he fell for the Autorx 14k run which I would've never even bother starting knowing the issues this engine has. Toss in the number of times that the engine's idiot light has come on in the past, says much for the fate of this 3.0!
I also look at the cut opened oil filter and am not impressed. I would expect tremendously more crud in that filter if it was a sludge monster. It had just a little. So, something isn't right. Could be just a clean engine with completely shot valve seals. Or, could be a sludged engine with no oil flow and a PCV sucking the quart per tank full.
sounds like it may be time for a rebuild if its that bad
Problem is, we can't even get him to pull off the valve cover for a picture. And, he fell for the Autorx 14k run which I would've never even bother starting knowing the issues this engine has. Toss in the number of times that the engine's idiot light has come on in the past, says much for the fate of this 3.0!
I also look at the cut opened oil filter and am not impressed. I would expect tremendously more crud in that filter if it was a sludge monster. It had just a little. So, something isn't right. Could be just a clean engine with completely shot valve seals. Or, could be a sludged engine with no oil flow and a PCV sucking the quart per tank full.
I hope I will pull of cover soon, when it gets warmer. Week or so. Dummy light turned on ones, pulled to gas station right away, engine was running around 20 sec. And later(week or so) it turner on and shut off (flicker) 2-3 times on the hills while braking for red light( oil was added in those cases too). After I started ARX, I'm able to check my level( I guess dissolved the [censored] in oil pan), and check it everyday and add as needed.
Will change and cut open one more filter soon. This time it's Fram, and it will be there for 1000 miles. Total miles with ARX will be 1500. 200 miles to go.
Also thought about changing fuel filter while removing valve cover(s). Which of those will be better: Mann, Fram or Beck Arnley?
it would really freak me out knowing all that disoved sluge was in my oil pan. i dont know how you do it. i would just flip out and go 500 mile ocis with pyb and MMO. stick to it tho as long as you keep the oil full it should be ok right? 14k with out draining???
besides how does the arx stay in and the oil goes away? i would think every time you added oil the arx would get diluted
besides how does the arx stay in and the oil goes away? i would think every time you added oil the arx would get diluted
I guess so. I was supposed to change oil after 5000. It says don"t add any ARX after filter changes or any other chemicals to oil, just fresh oil.
I forgot about seafoam, will run it thru tomorrow (but not to oil filler), it might help clean out pcv system. Also if this filter will have a lot of [censored], I will probably freak out, drain oil, run next for a 1000, then last bottle of ARX with fresh oil. for another 1-3k miles and filter every 1k.
I forgot about seafoam, will run it thru tomorrow (but not to oil filler), it might help clean out pcv system. Also if this filter will have a lot of [censored], I will probably freak out, drain oil, run next for a 1000, then last bottle of ARX with fresh oil. for another 1-3k miles and filter every 1k.
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