Auto-RX in 3.0L Camry

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Nothing but oil for the rinse phases. Don't do ANYTHING other than those directions for that 14k. I would only deviate by using a synthetic, preferably store brand generic synth, for all the rinse and future ARX runs. A lowly store brand groupIII oil shouldn't interfere with the esters of Autorx(trying to appease the ARX fan base), and shouldn't add to the sludge still building in your engine if/when you run too low on oil(which you should be checking and topping off daily anyway).

When you pull off a valve cover or two, or the oil pan, then we can talk about deviation/kerosene/kreen/MMO/biodiesel/lampoil.... Until then, you have your 14k directions.

If you want to, just before you pull the oil pan drain plug(at the 5500mile or any 3k mark), try this:
Add 2 quarts of solvent to the engine(do not run engine). Run a small hose/tube(like the ones used by oil extractors) down your dipstick tube. Connect it to an air pump or compressor. Let the airflow run for an hour. Then drain the oil/kero mix(again while NEVER RUNNING THE ENGINE) into a clean pan/bucket and let it settle/inspect. It'll give you an idea on what is in the engine. And, anything that the solvent(kerosene, diesel, biodiesel, engine flush, mineral spirits, gasoline, parts washer fluid) loosens up, will drain with your oil. If the contents of the drain bucket is scary, install drain plug, dump in 2 gallons of solvent, and repeat with the air pump. Air flow provides the washing machine affect. A gallon or 2 of diesel/kerosene/biodiesel... is <$10. Not running the engine makes it perfectly safe and is easier than pulling an oil pan.
 
Originally Posted By: unDummy


If you want to, just before you pull the oil pan drain plug(at the 5500mile or any 3k mark), try this:
Add 2 quarts of solvent to the engine(do not run engine). Run a small hose/tube(like the ones used by oil extractors) down your dipstick tube. Connect it to an air pump or compressor. Let the airflow run for an hour. Then drain the oil/kero mix(again while NEVER RUNNING THE ENGINE) into a clean pan/bucket and let it settle/inspect. It'll give you an idea on what is in the engine. And, anything that the solvent(kerosene, diesel, biodiesel, engine flush, mineral spirits, gasoline, parts washer fluid) loosens up, will drain with your oil. If the contents of the drain bucket is scary, install drain plug, dump in 2 gallons of solvent, and repeat with the air pump. Air flow provides the washing machine affect. A gallon or 2 of diesel/kerosene/biodiesel... is


I agree with everything you just said, except for what I have highlighted in bold print.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Originally Posted By: unDummy


If you want to, just before you pull the oil pan drain plug(at the 5500mile or any 3k mark), try this:
Add 2 quarts of solvent to the engine(do not run engine). Run a small hose/tube(like the ones used by oil extractors) down your dipstick tube. Connect it to an air pump or compressor. Let the airflow run for an hour. Then drain the oil/kero mix(again while NEVER RUNNING THE ENGINE) into a clean pan/bucket and let it settle/inspect. It'll give you an idea on what is in the engine. And, anything that the solvent(kerosene, diesel, biodiesel, engine flush, mineral spirits, gasoline, parts washer fluid) loosens up, will drain with your oil. If the contents of the drain bucket is scary, install drain plug, dump in 2 gallons of solvent, and repeat with the air pump. Air flow provides the washing machine affect. A gallon or 2 of diesel/kerosene/biodiesel... is


I agree with everything you just said, except for what I have highlighted in bold print.

+2
 
This morning noticed ticking noise, while engine was cold. After it warmed up, it was gone. Added oil before start, not a lot but still some. I will probably use Big O tires, (I believe they use Kendall oil, when I will go for rotate and balance next time) Or Pennzoil shop(All Pelzoil approved by ARX), it right next door. It might be that I will have problems with access to garage, so working on a car myself might be a problem.
 
How many miles are you into your run? Have you changed the oil filter a couple times already?
 
Originally Posted By: unDummy
How many miles are you into your run? Have you changed the oil filter a couple times already?

No, not yet. It's only 410 miles total for now.
 
I was thinking about mechanical flush after ARX, when they connect machine something like when they flush transmission, was mentioned here before. Will it be safe if? I guess part of [censored] will be gone after ARX, plus change filters often during first OCI after mechanical flush. I read some stories that it killed someones engines, but no one had changed a filter, at least ones. Another thing, couldn't find which shops are doing those flushes. Will ask local Tuning shop.
Will change and cut open filter later,like Sunday or Monday going to Atlanta to pick up biturbo bimmer, that my buddy bought, will use other car for trip.
 
I would personally avoid flush machines, could dislodge too much at once. If you want to use a flush after ARX, I suggest Lubegard engine flush. Its effective and contains no solvents.
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
Originally Posted By: unDummy


If you want to, just before you pull the oil pan drain plug(at the 5500mile or any 3k mark), try this:
Add 2 quarts of solvent to the engine(do not run engine). Run a small hose/tube(like the ones used by oil extractors) down your dipstick tube. Connect it to an air pump or compressor. Let the airflow run for an hour. Then drain the oil/kero mix(again while NEVER RUNNING THE ENGINE) into a clean pan/bucket and let it settle/inspect. It'll give you an idea on what is in the engine. And, anything that the solvent(kerosene, diesel, biodiesel, engine flush, mineral spirits, gasoline, parts washer fluid) loosens up, will drain with your oil. If the contents of the drain bucket is scary, install drain plug, dump in 2 gallons of solvent, and repeat with the air pump. Air flow provides the washing machine affect. A gallon or 2 of diesel/kerosene/biodiesel... is


I agree with everything you just said, except for what I have highlighted in bold print.


Incredible solution to those, like me, who don't want to have to drop their oil pan.

+ a million.
 
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
I was thinking about mechanical flush after ARX, when they connect machine something like when they flush transmission, was mentioned here before. Will it be safe if?


Without an inspection, its almost a guaranteed engine failure. If your engine is sludged up like the earlier link, your engine will seize during the flush procedure(running engine flush) or as you drive home(circulating solvent flush).
The oil flush machines work on engines that are relatively clean to begin with. The don't work too well with a badly sludged up engine or a known sludge monster.
 
Originally Posted By: unDummy
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Is zMax really a cleaner? While I like the idea of your test it would be unfair to test a product that really isn't intended to be a cleaner.


The unique ability of zMAX to soak into metal and reduce engine deposits results in:Increased Gas Mileage (helps maintain gas mileage in newer cars, and helps improve or restore gas mileage in older cars, by virtue of reducing engine deposits).Reduced Emissions (helps maintain emissions in newer cars, and reduce emissions in older cars, by virtue of reducing engine deposits ) Its a MicroLube®™© that reduces engine deposits. I guess reducing engine deposits has nothing to do with cleaning
lol.gif


Nothing wrong with MMO or Kreen. For now, the OP needs to wait until he's completed the silly 14k run requested by Autorx before attempting any other products.


It will help break up/down and prevent "carbon" deposits, but it will not clean up a sludged engine. It was never meant to clean up sludge and as for as I know never said it would. It also won't fix mechanical problems like to small of a oil return passage, and it will not help grow hair on old fat bald men.
 
Originally Posted By: bmwtechguy
While I like Auto-rx and have used and still use it with very good success, there are limits to what it can do. It must have flow to do any good, and when the gravity flow STOPS on these drainback holes, Auto-Rx cannot clean them out.


If this is true, then where are the DISCLAIMERS on the auto-rx site.
 
I think it is very good that some people here are willing to post before and after photographs of engine interior parts using various cleaners such as Auto-RX or MMO or Kreen. But after taking the photographs I don't think it works if you have a valve cover off anyway to help the cleaning along. A person just needs to make sure they explain that they did some manual cleaning.
 
Originally Posted By: PontiacFan
Originally Posted By: bmwtechguy
While I like Auto-rx and have used and still use it with very good success, there are limits to what it can do. It must have flow to do any good, and when the gravity flow STOPS on these drainback holes, Auto-Rx cannot clean them out.


If this is true, then where are the DISCLAIMERS on the auto-rx site.


Give me a break! You need a disclaimer to say it needs to circulate through the engine to work?
Do you also need a disclaimer on your knifes to tell you they are sharp, or your stove to tell you its hot?
I guess you need some level of common sense to use Auto RX.
 
He's new here, he should read as much as he can about A-Rx and base a decision on that. Or maybe he's tried it?
 
Update:
Changed filter today at 465 miles, current 510.
Found some black hard pieces in the filter. Filter is Super Tech, basically peace of hard paper. Now have OCOD installed. Will see it next, at 1500 miles.
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Looks good. Keep level topped off daily, and post pictures of the next filter(1500 miles from now).
 
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