Auto-RX in 3.0L Camry

Status
Not open for further replies.
Unfortunately I don't have an owners manual. And couldn't find one for download. Never had problem with Nissan or Honda manuals, Always used to have service manuals for them, where u can see every screw.
 
Last edited:
84porscheownersmanualoilrec.jpg

But, I was told that modern cars require specific oil not depending on outside temp.
I just not sure is 99 Camry considered modern?
Again heard many times: for winter use 5w30,5-20 or 0w30 (for really cold winter). Summer 10-30, 10-40, 10-60 depends how hot it gets or how hot(tuned, pimped)ur engine is.
 
Originally Posted By: mongo161
BTW....Does anyone know what major oil company makes the "Genuine" Toyota Oil?

Toyota motor oil is made by Mobil. Mobil is using their Mobil Clean formula, not to be confused with Mobil Drive Clean 5000 which is higher priced. Mobil only packages their Mobil Clean in drums and bulk. Mobil's own literature terms this oil as "a entry level oil." The same Mobil oil is also the Honda factory oil and the GM Goodwrench oil.


Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Who_makes_toyota_motor_oil#ixzz1C1001Jyr
 
Originally Posted By: Johnny
That would be a great chart if your car was a Porsche. Don't go by that for your Camry.

Just grabbed random picture.
 
The most important thing that you can do is check and top off your oil daily. Keep that dipstick on the full line ALWAYS.

If the engine is running, it'll keep on running. Problem with these certified sludge monsters is when they run out of oil.

You should pull off your valve covers and take a look.
And, you need to use a bore-scope, through the drain-plug, to see how everything looks in the pan.

Change the PCV now. Change the thermostat and flush coolant to make sure engine runs at normal operating temp.

When you're all done with your autorx shenanigans, you need a good full synthetic oil that can take the heat, and a reasonable OCI with constant oil top offs as needed.
 
The problem with these engines is mainly the rear bank oil drainback holes in the cylinder head getting plugged shut. The holes are not large enough. As sludge starts to build up from infrequent oil changes or lots of short trip driving, the oil begins to collect in the top of the cylinder head instead of draining down, and eventually the 3 drainback holes can plug completely, causing the white smoke that you are seeing. I worked on a 2001 Avalon, same engine, and at every cold start he had 5 minutes of steady, white billowing smoke and all the other symptoms you mention. We went the ARX route, but had to keep adding Auto-Rx to the oil as we added oil to keep a therapeutic dose of the stuff in the crankcase. We were able to get the oil light to stay off, but never got rid of the smoke or excessive consumption, which actually got up to 1 qt every 2-300 miles. We cleaned and then rinsed for quite some time/mileage, and if anything, the smoke and consumption actually increased some as the gravity drainback holes became completely plugged shut.

While I like Auto-rx and have used and still use it with very good success, there are limits to what it can do. It must have flow to do any good, and when the gravity flow STOPS on these drainback holes, Auto-Rx cannot clean them out. Then you have engine oil pooled and sitting there on your valve stems, getting sucked down by manifold vacuum, or draining down the valve guides into the combustion chambers while the engine is off, making a mess of your plugs, catalytic converter, etc. Eventually you will notice the tendency to have preignition from all the oil and combustion chamber deposits forming. This can be lessened by going to a higher octane fuel or adding some type of water vapor induction like we did.

Eventually we went in there and cleaned it all up, which was quite a job. That is when we observed all of the above. When the job was done, then consumption went back to a much lower, normal level, with zero smoke at any time. Unfortunately, the car was totaled 2 weeks afterwards, so we never got to see the long-term results.

My advice to anyone with this engine is to be careful about doing too much cleaning all at once, since it seems very easy to plug up those rear drain holes completely if the process has started already. The only way to reverse that situation once it happens is to clean them out manually, which means going into the top of the engine and probably the bottom as well.
 
It may be a good idea to pull the front valve cover to get a better idea what you are dealing with,these engines are notorious.I ran ARX 2 bottle multiple applications in one that was pretty bad (no where near sludge monster status) for a whole year with miserable results.

Seeing you already have ARX by all means run it but don't be surprised if you get little or no results and a good chastising for being to stupid to follow directions when you complain.
All is not lost.There are other products that will clean the mess up pretty good for less than half the price.
 
Originally Posted By: bmwtechguy
The problem with these engines is mainly the rear bank oil drainback holes in the cylinder head getting plugged shut. The holes are not large enough. As sludge starts to build up from infrequent oil changes or lots of short trip driving, the oil begins to collect in the top of the cylinder head instead of draining down, and eventually the 3 drainback holes can plug completely, causing the white smoke that you are seeing. I worked on a 2001 Avalon, same engine, and at every cold start he had 5 minutes of steady, white billowing smoke and all the other symptoms you mention. We went the ARX route, but had to keep adding Auto-Rx to the oil as we added oil to keep a therapeutic dose of the stuff in the crankcase. We were able to get the oil light to stay off, but never got rid of the smoke or excessive consumption, which actually got up to 1 qt every 2-300 miles. We cleaned and then rinsed for quite some time/mileage, and if anything, the smoke and consumption actually increased some as the gravity drainback holes became completely plugged shut.

While I like Auto-rx and have used and still use it with very good success, there are limits to what it can do. It must have flow to do any good, and when the gravity flow STOPS on these drainback holes, Auto-Rx cannot clean them out. Then you have engine oil pooled and sitting there on your valve stems, getting sucked down by manifold vacuum, or draining down the valve guides into the combustion chambers while the engine is off, making a mess of your plugs, catalytic converter, etc. Eventually you will notice the tendency to have preignition from all the oil and combustion chamber deposits forming. This can be lessened by going to a higher octane fuel or adding some type of water vapor induction like we did.

Eventually we went in there and cleaned it all up, which was quite a job. That is when we observed all of the above. When the job was done, then consumption went back to a much lower, normal level, with zero smoke at any time. Unfortunately, the car was totaled 2 weeks afterwards, so we never got to see the long-term results.

My advice to anyone with this engine is to be careful about doing too much cleaning all at once, since it seems very easy to plug up those rear drain holes completely if the process has started already. The only way to reverse that situation once it happens is to clean them out manually, which means going into the top of the engine and probably the bottom as well.
So should I try Seafoam after ARX? And does those engines have gasket under valve cover? All u said about back drainage makes sense. I seen some oil there when changed plugs. Some smoke comes out just right at start up, and stops right away, just a puff.
Otherwise after driving another 50 miles yesterday I noticed that engine became little less noisy at cold start ups. I mean it is very quiet from the day I got it, comparing to Altima with 3.5 and chain with messy tentioners.
 
I'd give MMO a shot after the A-Rx. I've had several PM exchanges with people who have done it with very good results. Just keep an eye on the oil level and check the filter. I would run a good dino and a cheap filter for 3000 miles with the MMO during the A-Rx rinse cycle. MMO dose a nice job slowly dissolving sludge.
 
Just checked oil level after sitting for night, will add some. And took a closer look. Someone took off valve cover before, I can see liquid gasket sticking out in some places. Question will it easily come off? And should I use liquid one again or just order one from internet. There is confusion to me again, which side is front part of engine? Left or Right? As I remember--left. Also will need to remove coolant hose from radiator, it goes right above left part of valve cover. Don"t really want to mess with coolant spills,in my parents garage.
 
The left one.But in this case the left one would be the one right in front of you looking at the engine as it is transverse.

Not much coolant will come out if you drain a bit first.
IMO you really need to find out how bad or not this is.
IIRC a dab of RTV is used only on the bottom of the cam seals,get a new gasket if you pull the cover.
 
Got new PCV, took old one off. Took little rubber pipe of, it's clean. But the little metal pipe and in the hole in the back off engine, I can clearly see sludge. Got some out. Can I spray it to dissolve a little with carb cleaner right to the holes?
163681_1830006269947_1234067970_32227200_6403052_n.jpg
168110_1830003109868_1234067970_32227193_7112788_n.jpg
 
Maybe a small nylon bottle brush but i wouldnt spray carb or brake cleaner down there.
How long have you had this car?
Is there any recourse in your state?

I hate to tell you this but from what you say about the front valve cover being previously removed and now this sludge issue something smells real bad.
IMO you got taken.Someone dumped a confirmed sludge monster on you.
 
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Well, guess my filler cap is outdated. It says 10w30.


Most likely the original equipment oil cap was lost and someone stuck on what ever would fit. The '95 Camry V6's came with with a 5w30 labeled cap, seems unlikely that in '99 they would revert back to 10w30.
 
maybe difference I were it was manufactured? Japan or KY. It looks original, with twist mechanism and spring. Not cheapo plastic one from Autozone. PS. PCV Valve, guess will change it again after ARX treatment course.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom