Auto RX and new cars?

[Terry]

I agree the open forum is the best place to discuss these issues and air them out. The key is don't just read one comment or commentator and stop there. Keep an open mind and realize this board is different than any other, competitors are allowed to post really good info here for all to see and consider. Anyone who sells a particular product is going to be biased that way just understand that.

The only limit I have on myself and in answering questions is the proprietary data that I am restricted by secrecy or other agreements when I test a product or chemistry for hire. Usually if I get quiet or seem stupid all the sudden it is because of that.

Sometimes I'm just stupid !

 

[RTexasF]

Thanks all for the responses. How about a volunteer to post "Neutra 131 and new engines" for equal time, so to speak. I'll not post it, thank you,

but I'll read the results.

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

I myself don't feel it is needed in a new engine IMO. But as you have seen, there is many different opinions all have merit so I guess the choice is ultimatly yours.

Here is a picture of two filters from a lexus, owned by a principle of a high school,that had 100,000 miles on the engine with the oil light flashing on at times. He was told that he needed a new $6,000 engine because it was sludged up.??? I looked in it and saw a lot of metalic or carbonized particles all over the valve cap area which was very hard and could not be crushed by your fingers. The engine had no death rattles or knocks so at this point, I suggested the 131neutra on a strict program.

After the first 200 miles, filter was pulled, cut open and here is what it looked like:

And then we topped it off, and continued the run for another 500 miles and this was the end result of this filter,

.

Now, during the first 200 miles, his oil light flashing went away and never came back. The evidence of particles that was on the neck where the oil goes in, was gone. You could take your finger and wipe at it and there was no partilces like before.

The purpose of this is to show, this stuff does work and it does in fact clean slowly. If these heavy particles were able to be broke down and moved to the filter, then in my opinion, I have a hard time believeing that there is anywhere that the neutra 131 couldn't be effective. Of course, I think the auto rx could be more effective as it uses these little particles that actually are kinda like little scrubbing brushes for lack of a better discription. When they are crushed, they desolve but in the process, actually can physically dig at the dirt and such, especially in high shear zone areas, which can actually scrub the engine, where as the neutra does not have this.

[ November 21, 2002, 04:05 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]

 

[Bio-T]

Bob,
Thanks for the pictures, very clear as are 99% of all I have seen you post. I sure wish I had a camera that worked that good so I could post pictures. Maybe Santa will read this.

 

[Sparkydm]

One of the features Auto-Rx mentions is the ability to use a "house" brand oil, with Auto-Rx, and still have excellent results with oil analysis. It removes the need for the very expensive synthetic oils. If I didn't live in MI with the freezing winters, I wouldn't use synthetic oil either. I am running extended drain intervals with an oil bypass filter. I do have oil analysis done also. I'm not overly concerned about the oil cost since I keep it in longer.

 

[Rick20]

Yeah, the synthetic oil base is more durable than a mineral oil, may hang in there twicw as long. But my question is, does it contain enough staying power for the combustion contaminants and dirt and moisture twice as good.

Also, the wax lanolin in Auto-Rx has next to nothing to do with cleaning an engine. If anything they have more of an ep effect. Putting valve stems into a synthetic oil, or cleaner is an interesting test. I would hope that the cleaning was over months with no flow. If so then I would consider this to be fast cleaning. A safer approach is cleaning slowly only under heat and circulation. Deposits are formed over a good length of time, they should be removed very slowly also.

 

[Frank]

For readers of this post, it's start date was Nov. 2002, so read carefully for relevant posts as posted in June 2003. It's my hope that readers sincerely interested in Auto-Rx will benefit from below.

Hello ---- Auto-Rx works off of ratios depending on the host oil viscosity, that is the carrier. Engines go from 5-30 wt. and up; this calls for 2 ounces of Auto-Rx for each quart of engine oil. Transmissions host base oil viscosity is ISO 68 hydraulic oil and this calls for a single treatment of 6 ounces of Auto-Rx (you have large number of quarts of transmission fluid ) No oil will hold more synthetic chemistry than allowed by the base oil and it's additive package or you start changing the oil's viscosity and it's additive package. Auto-Rx non-solvent formulation does nothing to change oil viscosity or oil additive package. Oil is just a carrier. Power steering unit would be 1 ounce of Auto-Rx as it to is ISO 68 base oil, however, small number of fluid ounces to treat. Please visit www.auto-rx.com for correct application procedures for engines and www.auto-rx.net for correct application procedures for transmissions. E-mail me if I can be of help.
Frank

[ June 11, 2003, 02:28 PM: Message edited by: Frank ]

 

[Mystic]

How does Lube Control compare with the Auto-RX and the Neutra? I have not seen anybody make a comparison here.