Attempts to minimize wear

[goodtimes]

Originally Posted By: circuitsmith
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
The Toyota hybrid system uses the engine to power a generator 100% of the time. Only an electric motor drives the wheels.


Um...NO!

http://eahart.com/prius/psd/


What I said is correct. The ICE is not mechanically connected to the wheels, only the electric motor.

 

[CR94]

Umm, no, circuitsmith had it right. The engine, the two motor-generators, and the wheels are all mechanically interconnected through the "PSD" planetary gearing.

 

[funflyer]

Originally Posted By: goodtimes
The Toyota hybrid system uses the engine to power a generator 100% of the time. Only an electric motor drives the wheels. On those, it is still possible to abuse the engine with the gas pedal. On the other end of it, the engine oil can be just warm even after a long run, I have changed oil and found that. Even though the coolant is at full temperature for a long time. But not always, I don't know why. It has never been blistering type hot since I have owned the car, an 07 Prius.



This statement is correct but only when the vehicle is in reverse.

 

[goodtimes]

Originally Posted By: funflyer
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
The Toyota hybrid system uses the engine to power a generator 100% of the time. Only an electric motor drives the wheels. On those, it is still possible to abuse the engine with the gas pedal. On the other end of it, the engine oil can be just warm even after a long run, I have changed oil and found that. Even though the coolant is at full temperature for a long time. But not always, I don't know why. It has never been blistering type hot since I have owned the car, an 07 Prius.


This statement is correct but only when the vehicle is in reverse.


Yep, I's is wrong as I's can be. It is correct the electric motor MG2 is only connected to the wheels though, as some kind of redemption factor. When I got the car in 07 I was up on it, but in 2016 all that I remember is the electric motor MG2 is connected to the wheels. It is a hard system to understand, and the engine is not driving the wheels like a regular car.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted By: kohnen
Alrighty, I figure that the best way to keep my engine from eventually burning oil is to keep the oil as clean as I possibly can. So, I'm doing the following:

1) Using a MicroGreen filter on the car. It has a built-in bypass filter that is claimed to filter down to 1 micron or so.

2) I'm using a magnetic oil drain plug made by Gold Plug. I've confirmed that it's good to 302°F. I figure that will pick up any iron particles that fall to the bottom of the pan.

3) I have two Filter Mags on the oil filter. These too are good to 302°F, and the purport to pull almost all of the magnetic material out of your oil.

4) I plan on replacing the oil and filter as per the OLM of the car.

I'm also using Mobil 1 5w30 EP

I figure that doing all of these is my best shot at absolutely minimizing the amount of abrasive material in the oil, which should minimize the wear on the engine.

(Yes, I know that I'm "wasting" money - I'm doing it for gits & shiggles. I also know that some folks don't believe anything that MicroGreen says.)

I'd love to know your thoughts on this approach.

Comments?


Depends on what kind of guy you are - keep it for a 3 year lease and dump it then only the most minimal routine applicable called for by the manual makes sense.

If you are "keep it and drive it till the wheels fall off" - kind of guy every thing you are doing will help and becomes noticeable over time - especially in state that smog checks vehciles regularly over a decade of looking at an engines emissions you can see the effect of miles.

Every trick in the book -magnets, mag plugs, high efficiency filters, better oil changed at sane intervals - it all helps a little bit and it all adds up over time to prevent wear.

Lots of guys get to high mileage, and many claim no love and only cheap filters and oil - but how tight are fresh are those mills?

Don't forget about the air filter - its as if not more important than that air filter in keeping wear down.

Having a farm in the family we had to get decades of continuous use out of equipment - it all matters.

Good luck and good running!

UD

 

[camrydriver111]

I think mechanical sympathy plays a big part as well.

How many people turn the key and take off? I wait a little bit and let the oil flow through the engine. My passengers are always like "why aren't we going?".

Then I take it easy on the car until it warms up.

So Cal is pretty easy on cars though.

 

[Xrs2zz]

Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
I think mechanical sympathy plays a big part as well.

How many people turn the key and take off? I wait a little bit and let the oil flow through the engine. My passengers are always like "why aren't we going?".

Then I take it easy on the car until it warms up.

So Cal is pretty easy on cars though.


Haha, my wife used to say the same thing until she finally got used to me waiting.

 

[kohnen]

Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
How many people turn the key and take off? I wait a little bit and let the oil flow through the engine. My passengers are always like "why aren't we going?".

Then I take it easy on the car until it warms up.

It's a Chevy Volt, so the engine is entirely computer controlled. And, yes, the computer lets the engine run unloaded for a while after it starts it before it applies a load. It's interesting to see how the computer cares for the engine.

Since it has the big battery & electric motor, I can drive it while the car is getting the engine gently up and running.

 

[kohnen]

Originally Posted By: GM4LIFE
Isn't that a little overkill?


BITOG folks engaging in overkill?!?! Never!

 

[kohnen]

Originally Posted By: UncleDave
Keep it for a 3 year lease and dump it then only the most minimal routine applicable called for by the manual makes sense.

If you are "keep it and drive it till the wheels fall off" - kind of guy every thing you are doing will help and becomes noticeable over time - especially in state that smog checks vehciles regularly over a decade of looking at an engines emissions you can see the effect of miles.

Every trick in the book -magnets, mag plugs, high efficiency filters, better oil changed at sane intervals - it all helps a little bit and it all adds up over time to prevent wear.


What happens in my family is I drive my new cars until the wheels of a car driven by a family member falls off. Then, they come asking me to sell them my car because they know I take care of my cars.

Lease?!?! It's ALWAYS a bad deal.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted By: kohnen
Originally Posted By: UncleDave
Keep it for a 3 year lease and dump it then only the most minimal routine applicable called for by the manual makes sense.

If you are "keep it and drive it till the wheels fall off" - kind of guy every thing you are doing will help and becomes noticeable over time - especially in state that smog checks vehciles regularly over a decade of looking at an engines emissions you can see the effect of miles.

Every trick in the book -magnets, mag plugs, high efficiency filters, better oil changed at sane intervals - it all helps a little bit and it all adds up over time to prevent wear.


What happens in my family is I drive my new cars until the wheels of a car driven by a family member falls off. Then, they come asking me to sell them my car because they know I take care of my cars.

Lease?!?! It's ALWAYS a bad deal.


Sounds like my family.

My sister usually gets my old cars because she beat her to death in a few years because of utter neglect combined with her husbands laziness.

Im a drive it till the wheels fall off guy for the most part.



UD

 

[kohnen]

Originally Posted By: UncleDave
Originally Posted By: kohnen
Originally Posted By: UncleDave
Keep it for a 3 year lease and dump it then only the most minimal routine applicable called for by the manual makes sense.

If you are "keep it and drive it till the wheels fall off" - kind of guy every thing you are doing will help and becomes noticeable over time - especially in state that smog checks vehciles regularly over a decade of looking at an engines emissions you can see the effect of miles.

Every trick in the book -magnets, mag plugs, high efficiency filters, better oil changed at sane intervals - it all helps a little bit and it all adds up over time to prevent wear.


What happens in my family is I drive my new cars until the wheels of a car driven by a family member falls off. Then, they come asking me to sell them my car because they know I take care of my cars.

Lease?!?! It's ALWAYS a bad deal.


Sounds like my family.

My sister usually gets my old cars because she beat her to death in a few years because of utter neglect combined with her husbands laziness.

Im a drive it till the wheels fall off guy for the most part.

UD


I'm also a drive-it-till-the-wheels-fall-off kind of guy. But, I've had family members ask me "When are you going to get a new car so I can have your old one?" - That's how much they realize that I take care of my cars.

Off Topic: The Chevy Volt is an electric car. I wonder if it's going to have the same obsolescence curve as cars do, or as cell phones & other high-tech gadgets do. If it's the latter, it really might make sense to lease them.

 

[WellOiled]

I have looked at MicroGreen's site and I am not convinced. If your goal is to minimize wear then follow manufacturer recommendations. They are usually conservative. There are many vehicles on the road running 5000 mile oil and filter changes. Many of these have 200k plus miles on them. They go to the junk yard for something other than engine problems.

 

[kohnen]

Originally Posted By: WellOiled
I have looked at MicroGreen's site and I am not convinced. If your goal is to minimize wear then follow manufacturer recommendations. They are usually conservative. There are many vehicles on the road running 5000 mile oil and filter changes. Many of these have 200k plus miles on them. They go to the junk yard for something other than engine problems.


I've looked at the MicroGreen site as well as the guts of their filters (both before and after being used). I'm sceptical about their ability to get you 30,000 miles on an oil change. But, I believe that they are at least as good as any quality filter available. So, I wait until they have one of their half-off sales and stock up.

I change my oil and filter according to the OLM on the car. It's a late model GM car, so it requires a dexos1 oil. Mobil Super™ Synthetic 5W-30 is dexos1 certified, and I go two levels above that by using Mobil 1™ Extended Performance 5W-30. And, I'm using magnets all over the place to pull out any ferrous material that I can.

So, in short, I *AM* following the manufacturer's recommendations with respect to how often the oil and filter are changed. But, I'm using superb oil, what I believe to be a superb filter augmented with two Filter-Mags outside the oil filter, a Gold Plug magnetic oil drain plug, and (soon) a Motion-Pro oil filter magnet that goes around the center threaded hole in the middle of the oil filter (so that it is in the incoming flow of oil to the filter).

I know that engines last and last if you perform reasonable maintenance on them. I've a 2007 Prius with 180,000 miles or so on it, and it runs like a top. But, it consumes a quart of oil every few thousand miles.

What I'm trying to do is get the level of wear so low that the engine doesn't even consume a significant amount of oil. What do I consider significant? I'd like the oil consumption to be low enough so that I don't need to add any oil between oil changes.

Is it worth the money? I'm not sure. I'm doing this for gits and shiggles.

 

[WellOiled]

I am thinking the bypass filter element on this one is maybe too small for 10000 miles.

You might be better served with a remote bypass filter setup. This setup would deliver prefiltered oil to the bypass filter thus reserving the bypass filter for the small particle sizes. IIRC The Baldwin B20 has demonstrated some good efficiency with low flow rates. The down side is the extra plumbing, 2 filters at each change and cost.

And yes, a very cool topic.

Best of luck on this endeavor.

 

[UncleDave]

Apparently the ptfe disk catches quite a bit more than one would think and they can be hydrophilic as well pulling water out- but it cannot be the equivalent of depth filtration in a bypass.

I think in absolute terms one could say you are always better off with a remote bypass, but one risks no or negative ROI in some cases, plumbing issues etc....
If you have one laying around and the time and want to fiddle with it - sure

Id say this particular application is probably the best one suited as his engine will be creating far fewer contaminants than the average rig per mile so the disk will be well in its comfort zone at 10K and will do a superior job at keeping particle count lower than any single stage by itself would.

Then again maybe having the liners exposed for so long between runs he may end up with extra metal?

In terms of absolute filtration capability the hierarchy chart probably looks like this.

Centrifuge/full remote bypass

Dual stage filter using PTFE disk

Single stage

The addition of a magnet on the filter is of benefit to all types, a drain plug less so but still helpful.


The way I see it khonen is uprating his program 2 steps.



UD

 

[UncleDave]

Id should have added another option in the heirarchy-

Centrifuge/full remote bypass (amsoil/ puradyn/ frantz) - best

Dual stage using depth filtration ( fleet guard venturi) - best compromise

Dual stage filter using PTFE disk (microgreen) - better

Single stage- good

Magnet - additive and helpful to all.

UD