Maybe it varies too much between transmissions, but I am curious, if you do an automatic transmission flush through the cooler line, one end in the fresh fluid and one end in a waste bucket. What is the flow rate, maybe like 1 quart per minute or is it faster?
ATF Flush--Rate of flow?
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The flow rate on our 06 Corolla is about 1 quart every 30 seconds, or close to that. I didn't do it the way you're talking about, I just pumped out a quart at a time and then replaced it via the dipstick/refill tube.
Mine is about the same as hate2works.
What is the purpose of having one end in the fresh fluid?
What is the purpose of having one end in the fresh fluid?
My grand prix and gs300 have drastically different rates of flow. the grand prix was probably 1-1.5 gallons per minute, the gs300 was perhaps 1-1.5 quarts per minute.
I found information from Ford on the required cooler line flow from their various automatics of the recent past. Logic would dictate the other manufacturers have it somewhere as well. This is how I checked cooler flow after installing various inline trans filters.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Mine is about the same as hate2works.
What is the purpose of having one end in the fresh fluid?
I think he plans on sucking new fluid in one line while he catches the old oil with the output line??
Mine is about the same as hate2works.
What is the purpose of having one end in the fresh fluid?
I think he plans on sucking new fluid in one line while he catches the old oil with the output line??
I have never done this before, so I envisioned you would want fresh going in the line while the old is coming out. Now if there was a way to drain the whole thing... Well my 1990 Ford 460 V8 had a drain plug on the torque converter. Had to have someone keep bumping the key while you watched for the plug in the inspection hole. Once you saw it, you take a screw driver or something and lever it to the hole. Most auto transmissions do not have this feature.
Actually I had this done at a shop recently (too messy for driveway/garage) but was curious as maybe I could do it myself next time. Really depends on flow rate.
How about hate2work's method. So you just keep turning the engine on and off? I did one time drain the pan (had a plug) then run the engine for about 10 seconds. More comes out, but how long can you do that before you may damage things?
Actually I had this done at a shop recently (too messy for driveway/garage) but was curious as maybe I could do it myself next time. Really depends on flow rate.
How about hate2work's method. So you just keep turning the engine on and off? I did one time drain the pan (had a plug) then run the engine for about 10 seconds. More comes out, but how long can you do that before you may damage things?
Originally Posted By: tinmanSC
My grand prix and gs300 have drastically different rates of flow. the grand prix was probably 1-1.5 gallons per minute, the gs300 was perhaps 1-1.5 quarts per minute.
1-1.5 every minute doesn't sound right. It is abt 1Q every 15-20 sec that was the flow in my Japanese vehicles I have owned.
My grand prix and gs300 have drastically different rates of flow. the grand prix was probably 1-1.5 gallons per minute, the gs300 was perhaps 1-1.5 quarts per minute.
1-1.5 every minute doesn't sound right. It is abt 1Q every 15-20 sec that was the flow in my Japanese vehicles I have owned.
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Mine is about the same as hate2works.
What is the purpose of having one end in the fresh fluid?
I think he plans on sucking new fluid in one line while he catches the old oil with the output line??
Doesn't work. There is no suction. And the oil can't be poured down the skinny dipstick tube as fast as it gets pumped out.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Mine is about the same as hate2works.
What is the purpose of having one end in the fresh fluid?
I think he plans on sucking new fluid in one line while he catches the old oil with the output line??
Doesn't work. There is no suction. And the oil can't be poured down the skinny dipstick tube as fast as it gets pumped out.
One of my service manuals says to fill through the dipstick tube and let it pump out of the cooler line. The implication is that the engine is running and it is pumping out as you pour it in, but I agree you can not pour it in very fast. I will have to do more research.
Maybe I'll just take it to the dealer.
Maybe I'll just take it to the dealer.
Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
The implication is that the engine is running and it is pumping out as you pour it in, but I agree you can not pour it in very fast.
No way you can keep up by pouring it in while it's being pumped out. Like I said earlier, just pump out one quart at a time, then stop the engine and pour in one quart. Keep doing this until you are done, usually 8-10 quarts or so.
The implication is that the engine is running and it is pumping out as you pour it in, but I agree you can not pour it in very fast.
No way you can keep up by pouring it in while it's being pumped out. Like I said earlier, just pump out one quart at a time, then stop the engine and pour in one quart. Keep doing this until you are done, usually 8-10 quarts or so.
The two bucket technique is very good.
But plan ahead and do your homework.
Mark and measure carefully.
Auto transmissions can spew at a very high rate!
But plan ahead and do your homework.
Mark and measure carefully.
Auto transmissions can spew at a very high rate!
As I recall my 2000 Honda Accord was pumping about 1 qt in 20-30 seconds from the coolant line going to the radiator. I didnt actually time it tho.
Since it has a drain plug, I dumped the first 3 quarts from the pan. Then added 4 quarts back (over filled by 1 qt)then started the engine and pumped out about 2 quarts from the coolant line, stopped the engine, added a couple of more quarts and pumped out one more quart (now back to full). Called it good as I had changed 6 quarts out of the total 6.4 capacity.
Since it has a drain plug, I dumped the first 3 quarts from the pan. Then added 4 quarts back (over filled by 1 qt)then started the engine and pumped out about 2 quarts from the coolant line, stopped the engine, added a couple of more quarts and pumped out one more quart (now back to full). Called it good as I had changed 6 quarts out of the total 6.4 capacity.
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Make an airplane check off list, with every detail.
Do a dry run first.
This is your best bet for the 2 bucket technique.
But stone simple and a really good way.
Do a dry run first.
This is your best bet for the 2 bucket technique.
But stone simple and a really good way.
Please explain what the 2 bucket technique is!
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Maybe it varies too much between transmissions, but I am curious, if you do an automatic transmission flush through the cooler line, one end in the fresh fluid and one end in a waste bucket. What is the flow rate, maybe like 1 quart per minute or is it faster?
The end in fresh fluid has no suction. You need to pour it in via the dipstick. If you had a pump (which is what a flush machine is) then you could pump it in via the cooler line (the one where nothing comes out when you run the engine, that line is basically a direct line into the pan).
Maybe it varies too much between transmissions, but I am curious, if you do an automatic transmission flush through the cooler line, one end in the fresh fluid and one end in a waste bucket. What is the flow rate, maybe like 1 quart per minute or is it faster?
The end in fresh fluid has no suction. You need to pour it in via the dipstick. If you had a pump (which is what a flush machine is) then you could pump it in via the cooler line (the one where nothing comes out when you run the engine, that line is basically a direct line into the pan).
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
I have never done this before, so I envisioned you would want fresh going in the line while the old is coming out. Now if there was a way to drain the whole thing... Well my 1990 Ford 460 V8 had a drain plug on the torque converter. Had to have someone keep bumping the key while you watched for the plug in the inspection hole. Once you saw it, you take a screw driver or something and lever it to the hole. Most auto transmissions do not have this feature.
Actually I had this done at a shop recently (too messy for driveway/garage) but was curious as maybe I could do it myself next time. Really depends on flow rate.
How about hate2work's method. So you just keep turning the engine on and off? I did one time drain the pan (had a plug) then run the engine for about 10 seconds. More comes out, but how long can you do that before you may damage things?
This would work, or even better, you could make a cheap push button switch and connect it under the hood to the starter motor relay. Simply use the push button to crank the engine for as long as you need to pump out some fluid, then refill and repeat as stated earlier. The flow is usually pretty quick so you shouldn't have to worry about killing your battery. Another benefit is that you can be outside the car, near your collection can and observing the flow instead of being inside the vehicle with no visibility to what is happening. Also, with this process you won't be injecting any fuel. This same device can be used for compression checks too.
I have never done this before, so I envisioned you would want fresh going in the line while the old is coming out. Now if there was a way to drain the whole thing... Well my 1990 Ford 460 V8 had a drain plug on the torque converter. Had to have someone keep bumping the key while you watched for the plug in the inspection hole. Once you saw it, you take a screw driver or something and lever it to the hole. Most auto transmissions do not have this feature.
Actually I had this done at a shop recently (too messy for driveway/garage) but was curious as maybe I could do it myself next time. Really depends on flow rate.
How about hate2work's method. So you just keep turning the engine on and off? I did one time drain the pan (had a plug) then run the engine for about 10 seconds. More comes out, but how long can you do that before you may damage things?
This would work, or even better, you could make a cheap push button switch and connect it under the hood to the starter motor relay. Simply use the push button to crank the engine for as long as you need to pump out some fluid, then refill and repeat as stated earlier. The flow is usually pretty quick so you shouldn't have to worry about killing your battery. Another benefit is that you can be outside the car, near your collection can and observing the flow instead of being inside the vehicle with no visibility to what is happening. Also, with this process you won't be injecting any fuel. This same device can be used for compression checks too.
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