ATF change in new vehicle

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msparks

msparks

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I'm getting ready to change out the ATF in my 2008 F150. It has 3000 miles on it, and am planning on doing it next month.

I will be going with AMSOIL ATF and was wondering if I should change the filter or not?

The Ford Dealer quoted me $59 for labor, should I get it done there or take it to a transmission shop?
 
I'd keep it in at least 30-45k before changing it.

The Mercon that they put in from the factory is excellent stuff.

If you do a lot of towing then maybe 30k.

When you do it, WATCH them put it in the truck.

Take care, bill
 
I changed all the ATF in my 2008 GMC at 1,000 miles. I left the oem filter in place per the recommendation of the trans shop pro's. I used Amsoil ATF and they did a manual purge, did not use any machine. I had them run 20 qts (5gals) thru to ensure complete change over, lines, cooler etc.

I did it because I want synthetic ATF in everything. All the fluids in my truck are PAO synthetic.

BTW - That was back in Aug. 2007 and my trans has been working perfectly ever since.

Check to be sure the dealer is going to have a trans pro do it. Many times the dealers give this job to the oil change guy who may not be the best man for the job. I always have mine done at the local trans shop. The dealers send them most of the trans work as it is, keeps them form employing a trans tech.
 
Originally Posted By: Mike_dup1
I changed all the ATF in my 2008 GMC at 1,000 miles. I left the oem filter in place per the recommendation of the trans shop pro's. I used Amsoil ATF and they did a manual purge, did not use any machine. I had them run 20 qts (5gals) thru to ensure complete change over, lines, cooler etc.

I did it because I want synthetic ATF in everything. All the fluids in my truck are PAO synthetic.

BTW - That was back in Aug. 2007 and my trans has been working perfectly ever since.

Check to be sure the dealer is going to have a trans pro do it. Many times the dealers give this job to the oil change guy who may not be the best man for the job. I always have mine done at the local trans shop. The dealers send them most of the trans work as it is, keeps them form employing a trans tech.


I have a new GMC too..what full synthetic did you put in the transmission? All Dex VI I have found is a blend.
 
AMSOIL

AMSOIL ATF is recommended for transmission, hydraulic and other applications requiring any of the following specifications:

# GM DEXRON® II, III & VI
# Ford MERCON®, MERCON® V & SP
# Chrysler ATF+ through ATF+4®
# Honda Z-1 (Not for use in CVT transmissions)
# Toyota Type T and T-IV
# Mitsubishi/Hyundai Diamond SP II & III
# Allison C-3, C-4
# Caterpillar TO-2
# Voith G607, G1363
# ZF TE-ML 14A, 14B, 14C
# Mercedes Benz 236.1, 236.2, 236.6, 236.7, 236.9
# BMW 7045E
# NAG 1 & 2
# JWS 3309
# LT 71141 (ESSO)
# Nissan Matic D, J & K
# Vickers I-286S & M-2950S
 
I'm probably changing out the same reason Mike is.

AMSOIL--Front to back including brake fluid, wheel bearing grease, diff fluid and engine coolant.

I figure one hole per month, just put the engine oil in and do the trans next, then the rear differential.
 
I'd want to clean the pan out of the original shedding material. I'm sure it's not required, but it would bug me. I might wait a bit longer just to get more of it out. I'd probably put a Magnefine on there too.
 
I changed mine out ('05 F-150 4R75E) at 7K... but I was given the oil for tests. I was, however, very surprised at the amount of metal on the pan magnet. As a result, I felt less of an oil waster when I did it.

Reading a couple of very interesting SAE papers right now; # 900561 "Development of a Laboratory Test Contaminant for Transmissions" (Eleftherakis & Khalil), and #99PC-418 "Optimizing Automatic Transmission Filtration (same dudes). After analyzing trasmission fluid for about 15 years, they developed a synform material for tests based on an average composition of 50.63 percent Fe, 20.95 percent Cu, 11.49 percent Al and 7.19 percent Pb. 5 micron particles make up the majority of the material followed by 10 and 20u. Interesting. Also interesting how adversely electromagnetic solenoids react to 5u wear metals. This "light reading" has convinced me that a Magnefine is going on my truck ASAP.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
I'd probably put a Magnefine on there too.

Instead of changing the fluid out so early, install a Magnefine and a transmission cooler if it's not equipped with one from the factory.

This will prolong the life of your fluid and transmission life.
 
Originally Posted By: msparks
I'm probably changing out the same reason Mike is.

AMSOIL--Front to back including brake fluid, wheel bearing grease, diff fluid and engine coolant.

I figure one hole per month, just put the engine oil in and do the trans next, then the rear differential.



just curious where do you plan on putting that wheel bearing grease? the hubs are sealed units.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: msparks
I'm probably changing out the same reason Mike is.

AMSOIL--Front to back including brake fluid, wheel bearing grease, diff fluid and engine coolant.

I figure one hole per month, just put the engine oil in and do the trans next, then the rear differential.



I like your thinking!
13.gif

I would dump out the factory fill asap, why wait for wear?
make sure that you swap the filter.
Also you need to replace the fluid in the torque convertor.
this can be done by removing a cooler line and catching the old fluid as the engine is running.
If you happen to have a Amsoil master filter Catalog G-3000 page 302-303. the procedure is on page 303 Step (13) 5 steps.
or look up Amsoi TSB DT-2005-09-28.

I have done a few Amsoil ATF swaps and I will only do it if all the OLD ATF is replaced, lost too much Amsoil ATF in the past doing what the customer told me to do, swap just half the ATF.
Good luck on your F150 it should be just as good in 2016 as it is today!
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: msparks
I'm probably changing out the same reason Mike is.

AMSOIL--Front to back including brake fluid, wheel bearing grease, diff fluid and engine coolant.

I figure one hole per month, just put the engine oil in and do the trans next, then the rear differential.



just curious where do you plan on putting that wheel bearing grease? the hubs are sealed units.

I have been driving Taurus for 10 years now and if I could get Amsoil grease in the sealed wheel hubs I wouldn't have to change out hub bearings every two years, after chasing the symptoms, loose wheels, worn tires, rattle, cursing the whole time!
 
Amazing...

My 99 Taurus has 150k plus miles on it and never a issue with wheel bearings.

Boy the koolaid is deep here.

"why wait for wear"
crackmeup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
I'd want to clean the pan out of the original shedding material. I'm sure it's not required, but it would bug me. I might wait a bit longer just to get more of it out. I'd probably put a Magnefine on there too.


From what I understand the magnefine is only 35 micron. That sucks frankly, when not install a bypass on there? I think I got 2 older BMK11's in the garage.

One of my buddies has one on an F250 with over 250,000 miles. I'm gonna go dig those out and see how hard it would be to install.

Would make sense--bypass filtration on a hydraulic type of unit (transmission is sorta like a hydraulic system) removing contaminants down to 2 micron seems like it makes sense.
 
Sure. I've had one plumbed across the cooler circuit. I used a BP80A with an old Bp90. I have a couple of customers doing it. My suggestion was only to assure that most of the wear in debris was removed during the swap out.
 
I thought I was nuts w/ 15k changes on dex 111 fluid. What a waste of fluids. Even [censored] can make it 15k.
 
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