Was just wondering if using Auto Rx in rarely driven cars, garage queen classic types for example, is worthwhile. If I had to come up with a mileage driven per year, I would say 300-500 tops. If so, would it create any benefit with a yearly oil change? If I understand this product correctly, it sounds like it is to be used only in daily drivers.
ARX worthwhile in rarely driven cars?
- Thread starter Bill D
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You are reading my mind. I have a '69 327 Chevy with the OEM stock short block, and I was wondering about an Rx treatment. However, I too only see 300-500 miles a year.
Frank??? Terry???
Thanks in advance!
Frank??? Terry???
Thanks in advance!
I am in the same situation. I have an 82 Caddy Custom Convert. that I bought new. I have 7200 miles on it and this year so far, 172 miles. I changed the oil last fall and added a full bottle of Auto-Rx. I will change the oil in November and add 6 ounces. I plan to do that yearly, to help prevent any rust or seizures on the engine internals.
Wow, that sounds like a very remarkble car both rarity and mileage wise! If that ARX regimen seems to be the way to go, maybe I ought to give it a try. I changed my oil about 3 months ago, maybe now's too late to add a full bottle? At any rate, I guess i ought to give it a shot during next year's oil change
If you change yearly, it is not to late to add the Auto-Rx. Then on your next yearly change go to 6 ounces with each change. Cheap insurance. You will get the benefit of the hot summer miles now, plus your mileage is so low since your last oil change, you shouldn't have to change the full flow as you do on a normal clean. JMO
My car is an 82 El Dorado. GM didn't start mass producing the convert. until 1983. Mine is all white with red leather interior and red carpet.
[ June 01, 2004, 08:53 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
My car is an 82 El Dorado. GM didn't start mass producing the convert. until 1983. Mine is all white with red leather interior and red carpet.
[ June 01, 2004, 08:53 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
What about bearing corrosion and cars like ours that see little miles? I understand Rx is an ester, and that some esters are hydroscopic. Is this a concern?
I have logged 130 miles on last years Havoline so far. I plan to run Delvac 1300 at the next oil change, and I am thinking about adding Rx at this time. Would it be OK to leave Rx in the crankcase over the winter storage period? If I change oil now, I probably won't dump it after another 300 miles or so, and it will stay in all winter. I am thinking the high TBN of fleet oil is likely good for an engine that is stored a lot. Right or wrong?
I have logged 130 miles on last years Havoline so far. I plan to run Delvac 1300 at the next oil change, and I am thinking about adding Rx at this time. Would it be OK to leave Rx in the crankcase over the winter storage period? If I change oil now, I probably won't dump it after another 300 miles or so, and it will stay in all winter. I am thinking the high TBN of fleet oil is likely good for an engine that is stored a lot. Right or wrong?
Auto-Rx is made with natural esters and is not a concern. In fact I use Auto-Rx for long term storage in my engine because when the Auto-Rx is in the oil and on the metal parts, the Auto-Rx acts as an antioxidant. (MolaKule will ban me from the board if I am wrong on this)
The esters you are referring to are generally the type used in refrigeration oils and are very hygroscopic. These are the worst type that I am familiar with.
The esters you are referring to are generally the type used in refrigeration oils and are very hygroscopic. These are the worst type that I am familiar with.
MolaKule
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Any material that coats metals, such as natural fatty esters, can act as an antioxidant during storage, or better yet, act as a rust preventative.
We normally think of antioxidants as opposing oxygen intrusion during elevated temperature operation of the oil. Antioxidants retard the sludge producing process by interferring with the oxygen (or hyperoxide) molecule which can cause sludging and a subsequent increase in viscosity.
In the sense that an oil coating can prevent oxygen from reaching the metal and causing rusting, we can also consider it an antioxidant, just not in the high temperature sense.
We normally think of antioxidants as opposing oxygen intrusion during elevated temperature operation of the oil. Antioxidants retard the sludge producing process by interferring with the oxygen (or hyperoxide) molecule which can cause sludging and a subsequent increase in viscosity.
In the sense that an oil coating can prevent oxygen from reaching the metal and causing rusting, we can also consider it an antioxidant, just not in the high temperature sense.
MolaKule
Staff member
To my knowledge, only the complex tri-esters used in jet engines are hygroscopic. Natural esters and less complex synthesized esters attract about as much moisture as mineral oils do.
In any case, the rust inhibitors should reduce any rusting that might occur.
For storage, one can use an HDEO oil and/or an additive that contains extra rust and corrosion inhibitors.
this now leads me to beleive if I should switch to another type of oil. My Sunday driver is an '89 Cadillac Deville 4.5 L with 122,6xx miles. I've been using Castrol GTX 10w-30 regularly. Maybe a switch over during oil change next fall along with ARX will be most corrosion preventative?
Bill,
Here is an oil worth investigating if corrosion prevention is of concern.
Castrol Agri Power Plus 15W-40 SJ/CH-4 114.0 15.2 SA 1.2
This may be available in NA.
http://www.castrolagri.com.au/product_detail.asp?id=19
Dave
[ June 02, 2004, 12:27 PM: Message edited by: DavoNF ]
Here is an oil worth investigating if corrosion prevention is of concern.
Castrol Agri Power Plus 15W-40 SJ/CH-4 114.0 15.2 SA 1.2
This may be available in NA.
http://www.castrolagri.com.au/product_detail.asp?id=19
Dave
[ June 02, 2004, 12:27 PM: Message edited by: DavoNF ]
Davo,
Thanks for the link but something tells me I probably won't find that particular oil here. I noticed it is 15w-40, as I'm still in the brand new stages of learning about oil, is 15w-40 ok for engine that calls for 10w-30? If it is beneficial for a car like mine with high mileage and infrequent driving, I'll investigate it more. Anyone have specific favorites for an engine like mine? Thanks again!
Thanks for the link but something tells me I probably won't find that particular oil here. I noticed it is 15w-40, as I'm still in the brand new stages of learning about oil, is 15w-40 ok for engine that calls for 10w-30? If it is beneficial for a car like mine with high mileage and infrequent driving, I'll investigate it more. Anyone have specific favorites for an engine like mine? Thanks again!
Bill,
The product in that Castrol Oil is a vapor phase inhibitor, which protects all exposed parts of the engine, ie it doesn't need to be covered in oil.
Here is some similar stuff I am talking about, it may be availabe as an additive.
http://www.vapor-tek.co.uk/html/vaporol.htm
It would need testing to see if there were any detrimental effects to a running motor, but you get the idea.
Dave
The product in that Castrol Oil is a vapor phase inhibitor, which protects all exposed parts of the engine, ie it doesn't need to be covered in oil.
Here is some similar stuff I am talking about, it may be availabe as an additive.
http://www.vapor-tek.co.uk/html/vaporol.htm
It would need testing to see if there were any detrimental effects to a running motor, but you get the idea.
Dave
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