Are Purolators thin skinned?

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The proper size cap wrench work just fine. But, a cam action filter wrench fits multiple sizes and works great. The up to 3&1/8" filter size wrench can be had for >$6 at AZ. Both smaller and larger size can be obtained from Amazon.
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My major problem with the thinner skinned filters is that if you use a strap type wrench to remove them you may deform the shell if the filter is any tighter than it is supposed to be. A couple of times I had to tear off the whole shell and use a cold chisel to loosen the base plate.
 
Originally Posted By: dickwells
My major problem with the thinner skinned filters is that if you use a strap type wrench to remove them you may deform the shell if the filter is any tighter than it is supposed to be. A couple of times I had to tear off the whole shell and use a cold chisel to loosen the base plate.


I've been using PureOnes with the grip surface, and never have a problem removing them by hand only - part of the key is to not over tightening them on installation.

I also stopped using filters with the P-gasket (ie, Toyota filters) because the lip of the base on those filters actually contacts the mounting base, which can cause the filter to lock-up when it comes time to remove them.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
They`re very thin. I can crush them in my hand.


Good thing FRAMs aren't that thin, otherwise you could crush the can and all the cardboard inside at the same time.
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for more years than i can count i changed my own oil. all the filters had the same turns, 3/4 turn from finger tight, using a cap. ONLY CLEAN oil on the seal. i NEVER had trouble
 
I've been tightening filters by hand to a little over 2/3 turn, and have never had any problems doing so. They still take some muscle to get them off by hand.
 
They apparently are thick enough to do the job. I have only heard of two instances of a oil filter can ruptering. One was on a motorcycle where the filter was struck by a rock, the other was a race car with high single grade racing oil that was cold started in a Montana winter and the engine was speed up to the red line. Not smart thing to do.
The bigger problem I see as other people have commented on is crushing an over tightened oil filter trying to get it off. I have done it. I only had tighten my filters after that experince and never had a leak.
 
Originally Posted By: mongo161
When I run some heavier oils....I like to use the Purolator Classic filters. They have great oil flow and keep the oil clean. I've run these Classic filters for 6K to 7K at high speed highway driving and have never had a problem with any Classic Filter.

IMO....Purolator Classics sold at WM are the same that are sold at Kmart, Advance Auto and other retailers. It would cost too much time and wasted money to run out a separate line of Purolator Classic filters just for WM. Don't forget....Purolator has their name on these filters and the consequences of filter failure would hurt their reputation.


I agree that Purolator Classics sold at WM are the same as those sold anywhere else.
My concern with PCs is the smaller size of the inlet holes (compared to Wix, Champion etc...) The Corollaland article also mentions that the bypass valve seems harder to open on PCs.
I would think this would make them less suitable for use with thicker oils? Thoughs?
 
The inlet holes on Purolators flow just fine (and probably true with every filter on the market) ... that's not an issue. As far as the ADBV being "harder to open" on the Classics, that's probably because they are nitrile vs. silicone. The opening force on the ADBV is negligible to the contribution of filter resistance. Majority of a filter's resistance is due to the media itself.
 
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