Are All Rotors the Same?

I really like the Brembo UV coated rotors, quality is notably better than most other brands.
 
Brembo rotors may be good but stay away from their premium/ prime line of ceramic pads they squeal on faint pedal pressure and click going forward to reverse. Definitely not my brake work being the issue, I would put the best of the worlds finest cardiothoracic surgeons to shame with my brake work. I am meticulous over brakes. One thing for brakes to come with a sachet of lubricant but to come with brake quiet you know they must make a racket.
I run Brembo NAO (red) pads on multiple cars and they are silent and there is no clicking. It could be an application specific issue.
 
I run Brembo NAO (red) pads on multiple cars and they are silent and there is no clicking. It could be an application specific issue.
What application because I read something on complaints of fitment for Japanese vehicles designed for the US markets
 
Placed an order today. Went with Raybestos E3 rotors. Based on this thread and a lot of others I’ve been reading, they seem to have as good of a review as any and I was able to combine the shipping on them and save a bit since shipping rotors can get pricey kind of fast.
 
Almost commodity for most applications.

For track usage, that is not exactly the case, Brembos resist cracks better than others
 
Can somone explain the logic to this thread? At the moment this thread reads as many on BITOG, like a 'favourite chocolate bar' contest.

Please, why are discs not a commodity item?
The coefficeint of friction won't change, and at the very most, after 100 miles the coating at the friction-face will be gone.
Those of you swearing true to one brand, how many have you tested to come to this conclusion? What made you test so many? Why were the others bad?

And how did you come to your conclusion?

And if you're any good, a safe driver - or a rare talent champ - you don't crack your discs (you're a lost case if you do) - if you can drive, you use your brakes less.
 
Last edited:
...But nothing comes close to OEM Toyota rotors, and Advics (box is labeled Aisin/Advics) rotors (exact same thing as Toyota rotors and no it doesn't make a higher quality rotor if you bought them directly from Toyota).

I have turned 20+ OEM Lexus/Toyota rotors, and most of them after 80-100k miles are almost new in thickness after being turned (I have only paid $10-15 to have my rotors turned you just have to shop around).

I have to agree. I had my 87yr/old mom's 2015 Camry LE dropped off at a shop I use because the rear brakes began making noise. ~55K miles on the vehicle and original brakes. She bought the Camry brand new in 2015. I figured it had to be due for pads and rotors all the way around. The shop called me in the afternoon saying the fronts were excellent yet, but she needed pads and rotors for the rears. $370 total. I was pleasantly surprised. I have no idea what parts store brand were used for the replacements.
 
If your OEM rotors are in spec, other than cosmetic why not just have them turned? In over 50 years of driving I’ve never had to replace a rotor. My 05 Chevy truck went almost 20 years and over 200,000 miles on the factory installed rear pads.
hard to find someone that still turns rotors.
 
Brembo and ebc are the only rotors I’ve used that don’t look horrible after 1 Ohio winter. If you can find ac delco golds for your application they’re actually raybestos high end branded street rotors. I put a set on my daughter’s car and they’re doing well. 2 years later, next to no rust and still not warped. I say “still” because she can warp a rotor on a test drive.
 
The shop called me in the afternoon saying she needed pads and rotors for the rears. $370 total. I was pleasantly surprised.
That's a good price but rear OEM rotor on that car are even higher quality (compared to Front vs Rear) then any after market you could buy.

They serve a dual purpose as the inside of the rotor is used for the handbrake shoes. My Lexus vehicles use the same rotor as your mother's 2015 Toyota Camry and they were all perfect when I replaced just the rear pads.

55k miles on the car and the rear rotors are gone on that vehicle? doesn't sound right to me, the fronts on the other hand make sense.

I have no idea what parts store brand were used for the replacements.
I would have just gotten your old OEM rear rotors can, they can easily be turned.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JTK
That's a good price but rear OEM rotor on that car are even higher quality (compared to Front vs Rear) then any after market you could buy.

They serve a dual purpose as the inside of the rotor is used for the handbrake shoes. My Lexus vehicles use the same rotor as your mother's 2015 Toyota Camry and they were all perfect when I replaced just the rear pads.

55k miles on the car and the rear rotors are gone on that vehicle? doesn't sound right to me, the fronts on the other hand make sense.


I would have just gotten your old OEM rear rotors can, they can easily be turned.

The inside rear pads were basically down to metal due to the pads being corroded in place. The rotors were shot. There's no turning rotors where I live. It's not worth it 90% of the time. If they're not rusted to pieces, the rust jacked pads will ruin them.
 
Well, I am finally gonna replace the rear rotors on my '98 LS400 with over 300K miles. Never been replaced. I don't know
if they need it now or not. Just figuring it is time....
 
Placed an order today. Went with Raybestos E3 rotors. Based on this thread and a lot of others I’ve been reading, they seem to have as good of a review as any and I was able to combine the shipping on them and save a bit since shipping rotors can get pricey kind of fast.
I think they will do just fine. I got the same on all four corners of the CX-9 and no complaints so far after 15k miles.
 
Update…

Younger sister was complaining about the brakes on her car (2012 Hyundai Accent) feeling “weird”. Took it for a short drive, and yes, they felt more than weird, they felt horrible. Felt like going over rumble strips every time I hit the brakes. I put new rear brakes on it almost exactly 2 years ago, which was less than 8k miles ago. With that being the case, I figured the front brakes must be at fault.

I pulled the front wheels off, and the front brakes looked totally fine. Rotors were clean, not scored, even wear, lots of pad left. So I pulled the rear wheels off- WOW. The rotors looked horrible. These are almost exactly 2 years old. They are Durago coated rotors bought from RockAuto on 4/17/24. I installed them with Bosch blue brake pads.

IMG_4525.webp
IMG_4524.webp
IMG_4526.webp
 
Update…

Younger sister was complaining about the brakes on her car (2012 Hyundai Accent) feeling “weird”. Took it for a short drive, and yes, they felt more than weird, they felt horrible. Felt like going over rumble strips every time I hit the brakes. I put new rear brakes on it almost exactly 2 years ago, which was less than 8k miles ago. With that being the case, I figured the front brakes must be at fault.

I pulled the front wheels off, and the front brakes looked totally fine. Rotors were clean, not scored, even wear, lots of pad left. So I pulled the rear wheels off- WOW. The rotors looked horrible. These are almost exactly 2 years old. They are Durago coated rotors bought from RockAuto on 4/17/24. I installed them with Bosch blue brake pads.

View attachment 336703View attachment 336704View attachment 336705

:eek:

Also, you don't need that screw in the rotor. It's only for when they first assemble the car at the factory. Good luck getting it off, and also be glad they're not drums :sneaky:

How much material do the rear pads have left? Does it use one of those advanced braking systems that uses the rear brakes more than usual? A lot of newer cars have it, but I didn't think a 2012 Accent would have that :unsure:
 
:eek:

Also, you don't need that screw in the rotor. It's only for when they first assemble the car at the factory. Good luck getting it off, and also be glad they're not drums :sneaky:

How much material do the rear pads have left? Does it use one of those advanced braking systems that uses the rear brakes more than usual? A lot of newer cars have it, but I didn't think a 2012 Accent would have that :unsure:
I know those rotor screws technically don’t need to be put back in. I still put them on just because it makes getting the caliper and pads on a bit easier. I load them up with anti seize. For ones that don’t come out easily, I just hit them with the sharp punch on my air hammer and it spins them right out.

The pads still have a decent bit of material left, more than 50%. They are worn evenly.
 
Back
Top Bottom