If you're going to be that concerned about contaminating new oil, why don't you just not drive the car at all? Simple.quote:
Originally posted by 427Z06:
Well don't take this is as Gospel, but here it is as I understand it. In order to remove all traces of the old oil when changing brands of oil, you drain your engine and remove the filter. You put on a cheapy Wally World ST filter after precharging it, replace the drain plug, and then fill the engine with only 2 qts of the new brand of oil. Start the engine and let it run for about 30 seconds, then shut down and drain. Replace the filter with a precharged K&N and fill to the proper level with the new brand of oil.
Ok, I retract my statement. I just reviewed things, and it appears that until '93 you could get the 302 in a Mustang. And a '93 Mustang is retro-reccomended for 5W20.quote:
Originally posted by Sin City:
Ford has updated their recommendation for the use of 5W-20 motor oils in older vehicles.quote:
I note that Ford never specced 5W20 for the 302, to my knowledge.
web page
Actually if you go to the last page to see the engines 5W20 is now recommended for it includes the 302,351 and 460 as well as long as we a discussing OHV Pushrod V8's.quote:
Originally posted by TomJones76:
Ok, I retract my statement. I just reviewed things, and it appears that until '93 you could get the 302 in a Mustang. And a '93 Mustang is retro-reccomended for 5W20.quote:
Originally posted by Sin City:
Ford has updated their recommendation for the use of 5W-20 motor oils in older vehicles.quote:
I note that Ford never specced 5W20 for the 302, to my knowledge.
web page
I was refering to a post above that stated that the 5W20 should only be compared to other synthetic blends in 5W30 and 10W30. Those oils are in a higher price range.quote:
Originally posted by Whimsey:
Don't know whether they're "better" but Havoline in the 5W-30 and 10W-30 viscosities can be had at Wally World for under $1.50/quart. They appear to be really good dino oils for the money.
Whimsey
If I didn't have it, I would agree with you. But it seems to be getting more pronounced as the truck is getting older. It only happens if the the truck has sat for more than 4 hrs or so. As soon as I start the engine, it revs up to cold idle and slowly comes down. At this time is is running very smooth (about 5 - 10 seconds). Once its down to normal idle it starts to knock. Pretty loud bottom end knock. My gut reaction was that I have a bearing problem. But after driving about a mile (very gently) the knock completely disappears. There has been a few people on the Ford forums that have had the same problem, but few and far between. Not nearly as common as the 5.4L crowd.quote:
Originally posted by Whimsey:
Funny thing is I'm a active member in 3 Ford truck sites and have yet to see any mention of piston slap in the 4.2L V6's. Other problems yes, but not piston slap. Maybe you can educate me.quote:
Originally posted by T-Keith:
I think if you read enough websites, and internet posts you find that every engine ever made has piston slap.
Whimsey
quote:
Originally posted by T-Keith:
I think if you read enough websites, and internet posts you find that every engine ever made has piston slap.
-T