Anyone use an inverse oiler???

[1977c10phxdriver]

Just my quick 2 cents here. On the "Ampcolubes.com" site, just looking at the picture of the guy shows this is very very old school technology, used when valve wear was high and adding extra "top lube" was the thing to help prolong valve and valve stem/guide life. With the advent of hardened seats and better guides, its not really needed,,,,IMHO. Kinda like my "condensator" boosting MPG by having a metered vacume leak built in. In the 50's, carbs were gas dumping nightmares and any vacume leak usually gave better milage as most cars ran way too rich to begin with.

Oh well, i'm done! LOL
Mark

 

[Shannow]

Early mercedes wankels used oil injection (engine oil from the sump), as do modern wankels.

They "injected" the oil into the boundary layer, not the bulk mixture stream, so that it flowed along the walls, and into the friction areas.

Oil mixed with the fuel ends up evenly distributed though the cylinder charge.

A thin stream on the walls may well lubricate, without upsetting combustion.

 

[wileyE]

Used a mmo oiler on a propane converted 4.9l ford six. It was the best easiest way to get some needed top end lubrication, without it the valve guides wore out fast so I know mmo does do something. Ran twocycle oil in it from time to time and seem to work just fine.

Top end oilers could have negative effect on emissions, sensors, cats etc. Who knows how the owner will set the metering? safer to use the product added to the fuel at the recommended dosage, at least from a legal standpoint.

Still got mine out in a box somewhere, guess I should dig it out and ebay it, LOL.

 

[1977c10phxdriver]

quote:

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Originally posted by pastmaster:
Thanks 04SpecV!

Now if we can get several of the BITOG Brethren, together, and contact, Ampcolubes, and see if we can get a "group discount", versus buying them individually, it can save us money and we can buy more oil and MMO especially, with the savings! $59.95 each, is a bit steep for me, as I would want to buy 2 of them. Any other ideas on the subject?

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Go to a hobby shop and get a needle valve from a model airplane engine. They are super accurate and machined to pass a very small amount of liquid, even when wide open. Drill a hole across a piece of 3/8" pipe, put the needle valve in the hole going through the pipe. Then attach a small hose to the end of the needle valve going to your MMO holder. Then cut the PCV line and insert the 3/8" pipe inline. Start up and adjust the drip.

Sounds simple, but will probably be hard to see the drips. I'm sure someone will come along with some improvements.

Mark

 

[What???]

quote:

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Originally posted by 1977c10phxdriver:
Just my quick 2 cents here. On the "Ampcolubes.com" site, just looking at the picture of the guy shows this is very very old school technology, used when valve wear was high and adding extra "top lube" was the thing to help prolong valve and valve stem/guide life. With the advent of hardened seats and better guides, its not really needed,,,,IMHO. Kinda like my "condensator" boosting MPG by having a metered vacume leak built in. In the 50's, carbs were gas dumping nightmares and any vacume leak usually gave better milage as most cars ran way too rich to begin with.

Oh well, i'm done! LOL
Mark

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Please tell me that you were smokin' crack when you wrote this. The second purpose of the PCV line is to allow oil saturated air into the intake for top end lubrication. The removal of lead from gasoline & the wonderful tree hugger EGR system all but require some lubrication up top to offset the scale, rust, carbon introduced by the EGR system & the lack of lubrication in discount fuels. Trouble people have is when the PCV line is ill-conceived thereby allowing excessive oil to flow into the intake. Without the PCV line, there would be problems with valve & valve stem guides. An inverse oiler is old school technology that works. Your intake will be virtually spotless, top end lubrication is ensured, & the oil saturated air causes no combustion problems.