Looks like good stuff. Likely I will have some level of mix and match Victron, Renogy and BattleBorn.
Anyone own/drive a newer Ford Transit 350?
- Thread starter Pablo
- Start date
If you want to spend big bucks Battleborn is ok, but there's plenty of much more affordable LifePO4 choices out there now that will outlast the vehicle.
What Renogy piece? I can't think of one that I would take over an integrated Victron system.
Victron is crazy expensive
I’ve blown a couple of renology charge controllers, though admittedly their MPPT controller for $80 was quite good if not bulky. I’ve got a small victron mppt which has been working for … 2?3? years now without issue. I had to buy the little “gauge” like thing to set it up nicely, growling over the expense.
Lol, I've spent about $2kish in Victron stuff this year. Its not cheap, for sure, but the overall integration is fantastic.
This one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSYGZG...wn-garden&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwy
You've blown a couple of these? How?
1. Yes, I had good service from the MPPT charge controller you showed. I think mine was 20 amps. I think I was feeding 3x 12V 150W panels to it. The MPPT tracking is quick … it adjusts quickly to changing conditions like moving clouds. It is faster than the victron.
2. I’ve blown a couple of their simple PWM units. One just stopped sending power. The other did the opposite and boiled out a very nice flooded deep cycle and it went on for a few weeks before I caught it. Fortunately, I only had a single 150W panel when that was going on, and I caught it while the battery was still protecting the electronics.
Note on the smaller victrons - they really seem designed for at least 24v input, not a single 12v panel. They won’t wake up until they see a certain morning voltage from the PV, and I want to say it’s 17-18 volts. BUT, if you are going to feed 24 or more from the PV, I’m not sure I’d trust a renology controller after the one of mine failed in “go mode.”
But what specifically are you paying so much more for? I mean I appreciate the recommendation and since you are pushing pretty hard, I have to ask. (not trying to be an ass)
Easier integration sounds good to me. If the stuff doesn't work, then it's all pointless. What else? Better CCA assembly? Internal assembly? Better, more reliable components? Higher rated components?
Battleborn is recommended by the builder, but they will use what I choose.
I don't mind paying more for a better product but what batteries are as good or better?
The key is I have not decided on anything yet, but I was looking at the MPPT charge controller. I know what you like, but again tell me why. You avoid Renogy, I get that, but why? Is it garbage?
Really great information!
I tell you the reviews on the Renogy are terrible and customer service worse!
--Edit-- I'm posting from a campground with a crap internet connection and I think my pics aren't attaching properly, but I think they are there.
Total Integration mainly. Take a look at my solar thread, everything is tied together and works as one. Initially I didn't intend to go as far as I did, it really just happened over a period of a few months,
I've owned Renogy stuff,I had no problems with it and if you just need a piece or two, it works perfectly fine.
One of the huge selling points for the Multiplus II is the ability to assist the current from shore power. I can plug into a 15 amp wall outlet and run my whole trailer AC, electric water heater, everything, with assist from the batteries Granted, you can't run all of that 24/7, but for loads that cycle it is a dream. You pull the batteries down while the inverter is assisting the wall current, and you charge them back up when the load drops off. It is seamless. (I realize it isn't unique to Victron, but other inverters that do it are more costly and not as feature packed (Xantrex))
I can also restrict current to anything down to 9.5 amps on the power input, meaning no more burned up 30a TT plugs when the campground has a dodgy connection.
Traveling at the moment and don't have access to my pics, but here's one I could dig up. This is the input to the trailer hooked up to a normal drop cord with the current limited to 9.5 amps. The AC in the trailer is running, pulling way over the current that the cord can supply, the rest is being made up by the batteries. Actually, most of the assist power is coming from the PV array, but it works the same if you have no solar, just pulls it all from the batteries.
As for batteries, Battleborn is great, but way out of my price range and I don't think you get what you pay for. The LifePO4 market is brutal and costs have come way down and there is some truly decent stuff coming here.
Will Prowse does some decent battery teardowns of LifePO4 stuff, worth a look.
https://www.youtube.com/@WillProwse
Anyone can view my Victron data if they choose. Have a look, it is good fun poking around. They include this when you're using one of their control modules (Cerbo GX-S in my case)
https://vrm.victronenergy.com/installation/488934/share/26ec45af
(I didn't pony up for the official $250 Victron control panel, this is a $49 amazon touch screen and a 3d printed case.
As for system integration, here's a shot from my control panel, I can view almost every part of the system and make changes through the control panel. This is just one of my solar strings (at night).
They've since changed the UI to something a little more modern.
My solar thread on the sister site:
https://rvthe.us/community/threads/26djse-solar-upgrade.896/
I didn't intend to go as far off the rails as I did, it just sorta happened once I started researching on how to set up my system. A natural progression and a 'do it right the first time and not mess with it again' type thing.
What I set out to do. Run my 12v fridge while we're at home and getting ready to go. 400 watts of panel and a good AGM will handle that
Where I ended up.
1200 watts of panel. 600ah of LifePO4. And an inverter and battery bank that I use to run my mini-split in my master bedroom when the camper is parked at the house.
I paid for the solar, I might as well use it. Turns out, even in the dead of winter I can harvest just short of 3 kwh of power a day, which is enough to heat my master bedroom.
Talk about thread drift, for here, and scope creep, for me.
Where I ended up.
1200 watts of panel. 600ah of LifePO4. And an inverter and battery bank that I use to run my mini-split in my master bedroom when the camper is parked at the house.
I paid for the solar, I might as well use it. Turns out, even in the dead of winter I can harvest just short of 3 kwh of power a day, which is enough to heat my master bedroom.
Talk about thread drift, for here, and scope creep, for me.
Here we go. Not quite ready to turn in. An example from right now. (And a picture of one of the new UI Screens)
Cold down here in GA and my 1600 watt heat strip in the AC is running steady along with a 250 watt heater in the bathroom. I have the input limited to 24 amps because the plug here at the campground is...well...meh. (I've already replaced a couple ends on my surge protector because of crap campground plugs)
Heaters running, batteries charged, all the power is coming from the campground.
Took a shower and I'm running the water heater off electricity. I do this most of the time. I prefer to use the camps electricity that I've already paid for rather than my propane that I have to replace, but I do have the option of using propane for heating and hot water. I mostly use those for backup or if I'm boondocking and need to conserve electrons.
This is:
1600 watt main heater
250 watt bathroom heater
However many watts of electric water heater element.
We're over the limit for pulling power from the campground, so the inverter is pulling from the batteries and supplying the extra. Once the water heater is done, the batteries will get recharged with up to 120 amp of current, depending on how the math works out with the limit and all.
All totally seamless. I don't have to do anything, no flipping switches or breakers, it just works.
Also works as a UPS if you totally lose power. It just pulls all the power from the batts, and when shore power comes back it changes back. Yes, I've tested it. This inverter has no problem at all pulling over 300 amps from the battery array. I have some wire upgrading to do first before that is used much though. I'm only using 1/0 now. The batteries are getting 2/0 and the feed to the inverter is getting 4/0.
There is something to be said for running 28 and 48v systems, the wiring is thinner/cheaper. If I had it to do over again, I would probably build a 48 volt system and just use a 48 to 12v power supply to run the coach accessories. Really wouldn't have been much more expensive in the end.
I should mention there are also modules that will interface with holding tanks so you can have those levels integrated. That's probably not something I'll do, but on a brand new build it would be super simple to integrate.
A question I can think of:
Am I worried about cycling the batteries.
No.
LifePO4's last for many thousands of cycles usually. We'll likely upgrade trailers way before the batteries start showing signs of wear. I've said it other places, but LifeP04 is the way to go for RV'ers. Lithium Ion and lead based batteries are pretty much dead technology as far as RV's are concerned. (Although, BMS'es can and do fail, but I'm in at about $230 per battery, a failed BMS isn't the end of the world.)
Cold down here in GA and my 1600 watt heat strip in the AC is running steady along with a 250 watt heater in the bathroom. I have the input limited to 24 amps because the plug here at the campground is...well...meh. (I've already replaced a couple ends on my surge protector because of crap campground plugs)
Heaters running, batteries charged, all the power is coming from the campground.
Took a shower and I'm running the water heater off electricity. I do this most of the time. I prefer to use the camps electricity that I've already paid for rather than my propane that I have to replace, but I do have the option of using propane for heating and hot water. I mostly use those for backup or if I'm boondocking and need to conserve electrons.
This is:
1600 watt main heater
250 watt bathroom heater
However many watts of electric water heater element.
We're over the limit for pulling power from the campground, so the inverter is pulling from the batteries and supplying the extra. Once the water heater is done, the batteries will get recharged with up to 120 amp of current, depending on how the math works out with the limit and all.
All totally seamless. I don't have to do anything, no flipping switches or breakers, it just works.
Also works as a UPS if you totally lose power. It just pulls all the power from the batts, and when shore power comes back it changes back. Yes, I've tested it. This inverter has no problem at all pulling over 300 amps from the battery array. I have some wire upgrading to do first before that is used much though. I'm only using 1/0 now. The batteries are getting 2/0 and the feed to the inverter is getting 4/0.
There is something to be said for running 28 and 48v systems, the wiring is thinner/cheaper. If I had it to do over again, I would probably build a 48 volt system and just use a 48 to 12v power supply to run the coach accessories. Really wouldn't have been much more expensive in the end.
I should mention there are also modules that will interface with holding tanks so you can have those levels integrated. That's probably not something I'll do, but on a brand new build it would be super simple to integrate.
A question I can think of:
Am I worried about cycling the batteries.
No.
LifePO4's last for many thousands of cycles usually. We'll likely upgrade trailers way before the batteries start showing signs of wear. I've said it other places, but LifeP04 is the way to go for RV'ers. Lithium Ion and lead based batteries are pretty much dead technology as far as RV's are concerned. (Although, BMS'es can and do fail, but I'm in at about $230 per battery, a failed BMS isn't the end of the world.)
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I'm pretty much sold on Victron and our small van probably I don't need the AC assist feature! Thanks for the details, lots to digest.
Absolutely no clue however that sounds like awesome retirement plan/activity!
We have 2 of the high roof versions of these at the high school I work at used for transporting students. They are the 10 passenger versions. They both have around 150,000 miles on them. No major issues. Rock solid for us. They both make multiple trips a day usually around 40 miles a day minimum -fully loaded. Plenty of power with the eco boost. I’ve driven the students myself and it’s very easy to hit 80mph entering the interstate. Our fleet manger doesn’t do any special maintenance on them. We use a local Ford dealer who uses the bulk supplies they have. The driving position is a little odd due to the design. Driver’s legroom is a little cramped and storage for small items is lacking. Overall if I was shopping in this category I would purchase one. Our only issue is trying to buy new ones. Ford has paused production of 10 passenger since Covid. They sell all the bare bones delivery versions they can churn out.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
I rented a basic Ecoboost this spring for a family vacation. It was a good move - tons of power in the mountains and carried seven adults/older teens with plenty of room and weight capacity.
We had taken vacations in a loaded minivan (when there were only six of us) and it was so much nicer to have the extra space and not be riding on the bump stops in the rear or worrying about the strain on the aged drivetrain in the mountains.
