Anyone have facts RE. trany fluid in engine?

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
Originally Posted By: visch1
Thanks for the responses. I like old fashion ideas which often worked, tho with old fashioned engines. The following quote is perhaps from this forum from the past:
"ATF IN CRANKCASE
Depending on the mileage of the engine, something we do with all the gunky engines at our shop is to toss either a cup of diesel or a half quart of transmission fluid in the crankcase. Both have huge amounts of detergents in them designed to breakdown carbon deposits.
Lots of misinformation in this posting. The thing to keep in mind is that most engines are very tolerant of the oil or whatever is in the crankcase--think of the postings & pics we've seen of totally sludged engines that are presently running OK (but not for much longer).

Anyway, here's what Lubrizol (one of the major additive makers) says about ATF:
ATF is the most complex of all lubricating fluids. Not only does it have to reduce friction to prevent wear like all lubricants, but it also has to allow a certain level of friction so clutch materials can engage. Since most OEMs use proprietary frictional materials, virtually every ATF is OEM-specific. In some cases, they're transmission-specific. In addition, ATFs must be compatible with all transmission components, operate at both low and high temperature extremes, and maintain constant performance for extended periods.

To accomplish these complex tasks, ATF typically contains the following components:


Dispersants... Sludge & varnish control
Antioxidants... Prohibit oxidation
Antiwear... Planetary gear, bushing, thrust washer protection
Friction modifier... Modify clutch plate and band friction
Corrosion inhibitor... Prevent corrosion and rust
Seal swell agent... Prevent loss of fluid via seals
Viscosity Improver... Reduce rate of change of viscosity
Pour Point Depressant... Improve low temperature fluidity
Foam inhibitor... Foam control
Red dye... Identification
http://www.lubrizol.com/DrivelineAdditives/AutomaticTransmissionFluidAdditives/default.html

NOT A WORD ABOUT DETERGENTS, 'cuz they aren't needed in the clean transmission. Use Marvel Mystery Oil or Kano Kreen if the engine actually is sludged and needs cleaning. Otherwise, stick with good engine oil. (By the way, diesel fuel is a poor cleaner--kerosene is much better, and don't use either in engine oil.)


Good info. Leave the ATF in the transmission, there are other better alternatives to clean up an engine.

 

[friendly_jacek]

The thing is, in theory, ATF shouldn't clean. But people used it for a long time and apparently it works for sludge (or at least used to work).

I would not use it personally, the OP question still stands and wasn't answered satisfactory.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
The thing is, in theory, ATF shouldn't clean. But people used it for a long time and apparently it works for sludge (or at least used to work).

I would not use it personally, the OP question still stands and wasn't answered satisfactory.


I think it was answered well. The fact is the are better/safer products for cleaning an engine than ATF.

 

[Donald]

OK, so lots of opinions. But the facts are that ATF does not meet the SAE crankcase oil spec for that vehicle AND no vehicle manufacturer recommends ANY oil additive. Use a good synthetic like PP and change it at 5000. Change the PVC also.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: visch1
There are a good # of people who post here that I admire for their posts and true knowledge. A lot OF OTHERS have the attitude that “if I said it, it’s true.”
A few weeks ago I purchased a 5 speed ‘98 Corolla with an honest 51K miles on it driven by a 88 year old woman who I spoke to and was hosed by her mechanic by saying the electric drivers window would cost $1100 to fix and it was ALL rusted underneath! She gave it away and I purchased it at a premium price for that year. I became very concerned after the fact regarding these engines in it with oil usage and sludge build up so with the fresh oil that came with it I did a Kreen treatment and fortunately/unfortunately the oil after 4/500 miles is fairly clear, not what I was expecting and at the same level, top pimple on the stick. I’m thinking that before I change the oil in about 1K more miles, add a PINT of auto transmission fluid to it. Those that understand please offer your thoughts. This is sort of a PM procedure as these engines are what they are, and I have no idea what it’s like internally. TYIA


We've pretty much established here that ATF is not the way to go. See it through with the Kreen, change your oil, and at the last 1000-1500 miles of the next OCI add a pint of Kreen again. IIRC you can even add Kreen at the beginning of the OCI, and just top up with oil as it flashes off. If you go that route use a dino oil and change it out at 3000 miles. Oil has a certain ability to clean an engine, but not as fast or effectively in problem applications as adding Kreen or MMO will. Kreen works I'd continue with it.

 

[visch1]

THANKS to all for their opinions on the topic. I’m NOT going to put in ATF. My main concern was/is the unknown factors involving the interior condition of the engine. It’s been about 1K miles since I put in 12 ounces of Kreen and drove about 350 highway miles and the rest mostly 5-10 mile local trips. To me the oil is surprisingly clean, about the color of mid dark pancake syrup, the dipstick color is sheet metal clean and what I can see under the oil fill cap is comfortably clean ALONG with the oil level, didn’t go down a noticeable distance. With these indications I’m going to change the oil and filter today. Mobil 1 filter and Mobil 1 Extended and ½ Mobil 1 both 5-20, I think. I think I’ll change that out in 3K miles or so and go with the plain Mobil 1 every 4-6 K miles with new filters at each change. I’m still not sure about when to add more Kreen as a “PM” procedure. I’m still concerned about the oil ring drain holes becoming clogged and being a problem. My 1st car was a 42 Chev in the early 50’s and a lot has changed in cars and this old body making even an oil change a project. THANKS AGAIN!

 

[Quest]

So long as your thermostat is working properly and your PCV valve isn't clogged, then just drive it and enjoy.

(** I've tackled 3 high-mileage Corollas so far (still under my maintenance fleet), all of them acquired over 210k to date, 2 out of 3 maintained by dealership bulk oil, none of them burn any oil during their 6000km OCI run using PYB, QSTate Green and/or Valvoline white bottles.**)

I'd say that most of the so-called 98 ~01 Corolla oil burning issues reported on the internet are over-rated. (hindsight: how many satisfied customers would go online and report their satisfaction instead of ranting?!!)

Q.