Anyone have experience with a frozen hub/spindle?

B

Bullet

Joined
Dec 19, 2004
Messages
401
Location
New Orleans La
Trying to replace the CV axle on a FJ Cruiser and the hub and spindle might as be welded together. A few wacks with a large mall didn't loosen it. Tried PB blaster did nothing to help. Got a hub puller and no movement. Tried some heat with a MAP torch still no movement. AFter some heat and an impact on the hub puller to the point the center bolt won't even turn anymore it's so tight. Surprised the tool isn't bent or broken. There's no rust or corrosion. Just basically a 17year old car with 165K miles. It's never been in mud or high water. I don't think this thing even has 5 miles in four wheel drive. I don't care about the used axle or the bearing/hub assembly as I have new parts. WTH?

I guess I could pull the knuckle/hub/axle out as one, but I don't really want to buy another knuckle as I don't think I could even get it up in the press.

IMG_6823.webp


IMG_6822.webp

IMG_6825.webp
 
Last edited:
Respectfully, have you made certain that all hardware was removed? Check for any hidden c-clips etc.
 
Just did one on our FJ. The hub is a very tight almost press fit into the knuckle. If you are not getting it out straight it won't come out.

I beat on the hub with a large hammer on opposite sides. It took a few hits to get it out . BTW the tq for the big nut is 173 ft lbs
 
https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Hub-Removal-Tool-Compatible/dp/B0BLHSWNCY

AFAIC there is no spindle in an IFS setup like this. A spindle is a male tube precision machined for the ID of taper (usually) roller bearings. Old school front ends had spindles with a castle nut (or double locknuts) to adjust bearing preload. Trailer axles have spindles. Full floater rears have spindles.

This is a unit bearing that lightly presses into a knuckle and doesn't need a spindle due to the nature of the unit bearing
 
For clarification, are you having trouble getting the CV axle splined shaft out of the bearing? If that's the case then just spray it down and let it soak. Tapping on the threaded end where the nut goes or using an air impact gun will loosen it. Give the penetrating oil time to soak.

1749936314839.webp
 
D60 said:
https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Hub-Removal-Tool-Compatible/dp/B0BLHSWNCY

AFAIC there is no spindle in an IFS setup like this. A spindle is a male tube precision machined for the ID of taper (usually) roller bearings. Old school front ends had spindles with a castle nut (or double locknuts) to adjust bearing preload. Trailer axles have spindles. Full floater rears have spindles.

This is a unit bearing that lightly presses into a knuckle and doesn't need a spindle due to the nature of the unit bearing
Click to expand...

I have one of these "hub shockers" and they work fantastic for popping the wheel bearing hub assembly off the steering knuckle.
 
Had to stop a storm is passing through. thank goodness for those Harbor Freight roll round carts. Pack everything on it and roll into the garage.
 
Bullet said:
Had to stop a storm is passing through. thank goodness for those Harbor Freight roll round carts. Pack everything on it and roll into the garage.
Click to expand...
If you have any sort of moly grease that will work fine, MolyKote Gn is often recommended for puller threads. Get the puller as tight as possible and leave it overnight, sometimes being under high stress over time will break the splines free.
 
Bullet said:
I don't care about the used axle or the bearing/hub assembly as I have new parts.
Click to expand...

Get the other end of the CV axle out and let it hang down, free of everything.

Reconnect the steering knuckle. Spray some lube or penetrant in and wait an hour.

Grab a hand sledge hammer. Hit it. Don't pretend that you're thor and it's coming off after a few hits. Just keep hitting it, not necessarily as hard as you can, just keep hitting it. It will come off. If you have an air hammer, use it instead, and again, just keep hitting it. Not having any visual progress for the first 5 minutes does not mean that you aren't making progress. Since you're replacing the hub too, a torch to cause some expansion may also make it easier.

The mental aspect of it is often the biggest hurdle. You're like "I'm doing this and it isn't working", but given enough force over enough time, there isn't much that won't eventually succumb to that, except that to me it looks like your pic shows the puller bending, unless it was already bent before you started. Even so, I agree with others that some grease on the threads (and contact to the CV axle end) might help.

If you want a bigger hammer and to take out frustrations on it, that might speed up the process, but isn't necessary.
 
Last edited:
I went through this a few years ago with our '09 Mazda5.

I don't know if this helped, but I rigged a an old plastic jar, sitting horizontally against the hub. It was sealed around the contact surface with RTV or caulk. I had some wood underneath to support it. I had cut a hole in the top, and poured in Kroil.

I'll try to find a photo, but imagine a plastic jar sitting horizontally against the hub, with enough penetrating oil inside to immerse the end of the splined axle and the hub.

I let it sit overnight, close to 24 hours, then removed it. (This was not my idea - I saw it on a Subaru forum.)

I used the tool you're using. As others have said, it works best when the threads are lubed.

I don't know to what extent this was necessary or helped, but I used the tool in both directions - tightening and loosening. After about 20 minutes, working in both directions, I finally sensed some slight movement. After that it went quickly.

Good luck! Back in 2017, there were a number of YouTube videos of people with the same problem.
 
Dave9 said:
Grab a hand sledge hammer. Hit it. Don't pretend that you're thor and it's coming off after a few hits. Just keep hitting it, not necessarily as hard as you can, just keep hitting it. It will come off. If you have an air hammer, use it instead, and again, just keep hitting it. Not having any visual progress for the first 5 minutes does not mean that you aren't making progress. Since you're replacing the hub too, a torch to cause some expansion may also make it easier.

The mental aspect of it is often the biggest hurdle. You're like "I'm doing this and it isn't working", but given enough force over enough time ...
Click to expand...
Good thoughts. Perseverance is a huge factor.

The old saying about insanity being doing the same thing over and over without results does not apply when it comes to separating rusted parts.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
  • Locked
Front wheel bearings. Had to give up..
2
Replies
32
Views
5K
MarkM66
Crash Bandicoot
Changed Tie Rod ends, got alignment, truck still steers to the right suggestions?
2
Replies
37
Views
13K
SammyChevelleTypeS3
N
  • Locked
Need help with rear wheel hub; bolt snapped
2
Replies
22
Views
6K
nolan7120
0
  • Locked
P1135 - 2002 1MZ-FE - help with sensor
Replies
5
Views
2K
Trav
michaelluscher
  • Locked
Revival of the '94 Escort...
2
Replies
39
Views
17K
michaelluscher
Back
Top Bottom