Our 2002 Avalon has had a CEL for 12+ months, P1135. Car runs fine, mileage hasn't been noticeably affected and UOAs haven't indicated any issues with excess fuel. After 12+ months I decided I was tired of the CEL. Bought a Denso sensor, removed the rubber boots on the intake assembly, reached down & around with my wrench and swore and swore and swore and got no where. I soaked it in PB blaster and literally laid on the engine while reaching down/around while pushing down with my body weight. It finally broke free and turned around 1/4 turn freely then began to resist movement. I proceeded to soak with more PB blaster while managing to turn it maybe 1/8th of a turn at a time. I would loosen it some then tighten it then loosen it and continued with PB blaster soaking. I had maybe a total of 1 full turn and she wasn't moving any more. I quickly admitted defeat, tightened it back up and reassembled the intake.
I have read to idle the engine for a few minutes before attempting this. Some guys even apparently use a torch to heat the manifold, I would like to see how as there is no room.
Any hints/tips? I am terrified of stripping the threads and needing a new manifold. We don't have emissions testing and this is our 'beater' car so a CEL is no big deal. I am getting ready to replace the valve cover gaskets and figured I would give the ol' girl a new sensor as well. Guess not.
P1135 - 2002 1MZ-FE - help with sensor
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I believe THIS is what you need.
But really have you checked for any exhaust leaks? I had a P0430 and it was a cracked gasket between cat and exhaust piping
Fixed it with versachem muffler weld a few mo the ago still going strong
But really have you checked for any exhaust leaks? I had a P0430 and it was a cracked gasket between cat and exhaust piping
Fixed it with versachem muffler weld a few mo the ago still going strong
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It will usually come out. I had the same issue on a 01 RX330 last month. Spray with PB. Turn back/forth 1/8th of a turn at a time. I was turning the sensor back/forth with a breaker bar. The old sensor came out after 45 min.
Use penetrating oil like https://www.liquidwrench.com/product/penetrating-oil/
or
If you have some ATF, mix with some acetone(nail polish remover) at 1:1 ratio and let it soak into the thread.
Sometimes you have to use an acetylene torch or at least a small propane torch to get these out. I replaced one on my 20-year old Ford truck about a year ago and it fought me the whole way. I would turn it about a turn and then had to stop and heat it back up again until I could get another turn out of it. Edit: Just saw that you had no room for a torch. Not even a small held-held one?
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Loosen it again and leave it then start the engine and let it warm up, spray only the sensor thread area with this..
https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gea...rant/898352_0_0
Let it cool down, spray it again and remove the sensor, it will get tight but keep going if its turning the threads will not strip out of the bung.
Once its out you need to clean the threads, get this from any local parts store. The 18mm threads once used commonly in old Fords is the same thread used on O2/AFM. Lube the chaser and run it down the threads.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/lisle...r/20200/4413541
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