Front wheel bearings. Had to give up..

[jeepman3071]

I had a similar issue on a friend's 08 Nissan Altima a few years ago. The CV joint went bad, and I couldn't get the hub bearing and shaft out. Car had north of 200k miles, and the rust to show it. I tried Kroil, heat, slide hammer, air hammer, pretty much everything. I ended up having to get a used knuckle/hub assembly from eBay to get the new CV shaft assembly in. Thankfully all the ball joints came out. I brought the CV shaft/hub assembly to a friend who has a harbor freight press. He cranked down on it but stopped once the metal supports on the press started bending. Ridiculous, not sure how it got so seized in there. I have dealt with many Jeep Dana 30 axle shaft/hub assemblies that were seized, but this Nissan kicked my butt.

 

[MarkM66]

Originally Posted by Ihatetochangeoil
Originally Posted by MarkM66
Originally Posted by Ihatetochangeoil
2012 Impala takes Timken 513179, along with about 25 million other GM vehicles. There are 3 hub bolts on the backside, an ABS electrical plug (if ABS equipped), and a 34mm axle nut. No hidden fasteners. Sounds like the axle is rusted onto the bearing splines; if you're going to pull the knuckle, you're going to take the CV (axle) out with it, and the other end of the axle snaps into the transmission. You're making a big job out of a 45 minute job.
I've done these GM wheel bearings several times, all you really need to do is loosen the axle nut to being flush with the end of the axle, spray the splines with some Kroil or other good penetrating oil, and use a 4 lb. hammer to break it loose. DON'T screw up the threads on the axle, you'll make it worse. You can buy a new axle nut, if you buy a Mevotech bearing on Rock Auto, it even comes with new mounting bolts and a replacement hub nut: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10003180&cc=1423707&jsn=467
The new 34mm nut torques to 118 ft. lbs. Feel free to PM me if you have ???


Yeah, well aware, and of course I tried all of that.

Axle splines are rusted to the bearing splines.



My opinion sir, (which you may consider worth what you're paying for it) is all you NEED is a bigger hammer and the anger management/C-C-C-Courage/determination to NOT let a little rust get the better of you. I've used a 12 pounder to do this when necessary. How do you think a shop (on flat rate) would handle this? Cinch that puller down and THEN rap it...I wish you well. Please keep us posted. I like learning new tricks...


I will find a larger sledge hammer, and try that before pulling the whole assembly.

 

[Trav]

Use the puller, put it under a good amount tension, spray it with penetrating oil and walk away til tomorrow. You will probably find the puller loose.

 

[slo town]

Originally Posted by Trav
Use the puller, put it under a good amount tension, spray it with penetrating oil and walk away til tomorrow. You will probably find the puller loose.

This is good advice if you have the time to wait.

I gave up one day on a hard to access, lower ball joint. I had a high quality, pivot type separator tool too. I tightened it to the point I feared it expoding in my face. It wasn't a daily driver so I gave up for the day. Then, while eating dinner hours later, I heard a big bang in the garage. The taper released.

Scott

 

[HonorAndHonesty]

Back when I was wrenching this situation would have warranted breaking out the air hammer!

 

[marine65]

Wow I remember those days.
Parts dont fit.
Rusted and seized parts.
Soak stuff over night in PB blaster.
Bolts and fasteners breaking.
Now at my age the only tool I would use is a credit card.
Less brain damage and skinned knuckles.
Of course right now my cars have 16K and 8K miles on them and both are still under warranty another perk.

 

[Timmastertech]

Run that puller (or a beefier one if possible) tight with the impact gun (grease the threads of the puller first) then smack the end of the threaded rod with a 2 pound hammer a few times, then crank it back tight until the axle comes loose.

As a full time tech in the rust belt, you get creative sometimes. Dealing with rust is about finesse as much as force and putting the force in the right place

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by SLO_Town
Originally Posted by Trav
Use the puller, put it under a good amount tension, spray it with penetrating oil and walk away til tomorrow. You will probably find the puller loose.

This is good advice if you have the time to wait.

I gave up one day on a hard to access, lower ball joint. I had a high quality, pivot type separator tool too. I tightened it to the point I feared it expoding in my face. It wasn't a daily driver so I gave up for the day. Then, while eating dinner hours later, I heard a big bang in the garage. The taper released.

Scott


That's what I would try if I had the time, sometimes its easier to make time possibly saving other parts from damage unless you are working full time on the clock, in that case BFH, smoke wrench, air hammer, etc.

 

[MarkM66]

Lots of good advice. I plan on trying again in a couple weeks.

Car is drive-able, and currently isn't being driving much at all.

Hope to post back with good news

 

[Number_35]

Originally Posted by SLO_Town
Originally Posted by Trav
Use the puller, put it under a good amount tension, spray it with penetrating oil and walk away til tomorrow. You will probably find the puller loose.

This is good advice if you have the time to wait.

I gave up one day on a hard to access, lower ball joint. I had a high quality, pivot type separator tool too. I tightened it to the point I feared it expoding in my face. It wasn't a daily driver so I gave up for the day. Then, while eating dinner hours later, I heard a big bang in the garage. The taper released.

Scott
I was trying to replace a ball joint on an old ('97) van in late 2017. After failing with a pickle fork, I finally bought the press tool. Was tightening it up and suddenly the tool popped off. GRRR, didn't have it positioned correctly, need to start over. Oh wait ... the ball joint had popped! Great feeling!

 

[HoosierJeeper]

On my LR3, the knuckle is aluminum and the hub bearing is steel... that was a bear to get off. I ended up using a landscaping chisel to pound a gap between them and eventually got it off. They like fused together or something.

On my Liberty I replaced the original hub bearings like a year ago, had 200k on it, they came off with just a hit with the sledge hammer. Had both sides down in 45 minutes.

 

[cb_13]

If you have a compressor that will run an impact it will run an air hammer.

I always take a round nose bit and knock the axle back out of the hub with an air hammer. Usually a regular hammer to the back side of the hub will knock it loose. I've had several so tight that they break before coming out. In that case I thread the bolts back in and hit them from the back side with an air hammer. If I feel it's not going to budge before causing damage to the bolts I will put a chisel bit in and run it between the hub and knuckle to bust it loose.

 

[MarkM66]

Success.

I tried a few suggestions from the post.

I found some plastic cups that fit snugly inside the hub. I glued those in, sprayed PB inside, and let soak for a half day or so.

After that, I took an 8 pound sledge to it. At first I thought I was stuck again. But I just kept at it with the sledge, and if finally moved.

So glad that job is over. Thanks for the help.