Any tips/tricks for R&R a 6L80 to replace converter?

[i6pwr]

My 2012 Yukon XL 6.2 has 140K miles, no driveability issues. I do want to change out the OE converter for preventative maintenance. Mine is AWD which adds to the labor, but more concerned with the heft of the trans and the fact it will be a driveway job. How much clearance is needed to remove the trans from under vehicle (if necessary) but one option is just slide it out of the way enough to swap converters and leave the rear seal alone if dry.

I have pulled TH350's on jack stands but not this one. Anyone who does this on a regular basis please chime in. I assume if I do tackle this, a front or pump seal and rear main seal should be included.

I don't tow on a regular basis, very occasional and generally short trips, (less than 100 miles)

Should I even spend the $$ on a billet with 140K on the transmittal?

All input appreciated.

 

[Brian123]

My 2012 Yukon XL 6.2 has 140K miles, no driveability issues. I do want to change out the OE converter for preventative maintenance. Mine is AWD which adds to the labor, but more concerned with the heft of the trans and the fact it will be a driveway job. How much clearance is needed to remove the trans from under vehicle (if necessary) but one option is just slide it out of the way enough to swap converters and leave the rear seal alone if dry.

I have pulled TH350's on jack stands but not this one. Anyone who does this on a regular basis please chime in. I assume if I do tackle this, a front or pump seal and rear main seal should be included.

I don't tow on a regular basis, very occasional and generally short trips, (less than 100 miles)

Should I even spend the $$ on a billet with 140K on the transmittal?

All input appreciated.

NO, on the Converter Change, I have already had a few Refreshments, and I had to reread the Op's post. Preventative Maintenance would be Fluid changes and maybe a Magnefine Trans Filter or an External Trans Filter.

What Trans Fluid are you using and how often do you do a Pan Drop?
Do you have an External Trans Cooler on this vehicle?

 

[i6pwr]

I bought it used with 85K, trans filter and fluid change was done around 60K. I exchanged about 6 quarts at 100-110K with Maxlife. I will be replacing the filter in the next few weeks.

I was thinking on a small fall project with the converter, but mainly looking for options/opinions.

No Magnefine yet, stock cooler, trans temps are generally between 150-175 deg.

 

[BrendanC]

slide it back far enough to swap converters. i would see if CircleD or Yank have anything stock rebuild wise.

 

[GMBoy]

Did plenty of these trans replacements and I'll give you my suggestion - lower it on a trans jack and slide it back far enough to swap the converter. You will have to drop the driveshafts but you can leave the transfer case attached but it will extremely heavy. The main man around here to give tips on transmissions is @clinebarger and whatever he says over rides pretty the rest of us lol.

 

[jetman]

All input appreciated.

5+ yrs ago bought our 07 Yukon Denali w/6L80 & 6.2L w/130k miles from used car lot. Needed a rear main seal. I was advised "while your in there" to change the torque converter. So I did with a:
https://gopnh.com/Search-Results?SearchBox=4646
its nothing too fancy but it should last until the engine, tranny, and transfer case need rebuilding.

Also installed:
Tranny front pump seal – GM# 24237531
Tranny Input shaft seal – GM# 24219390
Tranny filter
12 qts Dexron6 atf
Every 25k miles I dump & fill the 6 qt pan
Every 50k I completely remove the pan and change the filter too

Today it has 198k miles and no TC issues. I don't tow or hot rod with it.

 

[clinebarger]

Should I even spend the $$ on a billet with 140K on the transmission?

Great question, But one with no absolute answer.

In my opinion....It's foolish at that mileage to not refresh the unit (Frictions, Seals, Bushings, Bonded pistons, Billet 1234 Piston, And a Sonnax Zip Kit)

At least a Zip Kit as Pressure Regulator Valve wear is very prevalent in 6LxxE units, Causes pressure spikes that cracks the 1234 piston, Cracks the 1234/35R drum & can balloon the converter.

Sure, I've pulled hundreds of these units.....But not on the ground. A few tips....
*The right/Bank 2 upstream sensor needs to come out, Break it loose through the wheel well.
*Soak the exhaust studs a few days before removal.
*The 11 O'clock & 12 O'clock bellhousing nuts & bolts can be challenging.
*I would pull the T-Case, I don't allow my guys to pull Transmissions with the T-case still attached.
*It's stuck on the Dowels real good!!!!

 

[i6pwr]

In my opinion....It's foolish at that mileage to not refresh the unit (Frictions, Seals, Bushings, Bonded pistons, Billet 1234 Piston, And a Sonnax Zip Kit)

I agree and it makes sense labor-wise... and I feel comfortable performing this, however I have no experience inside a 6l80E, and it's currently my daily driver so while being mechanically inclined, there's a small amount of intimidation. I have pulled a couple valve bodies on 4L60E's and done minor maintenance on them. My 4L60E had a 2-3 flare at 160K, I think the check ball was pushing through the plate, along with a very minor shudder when towing. I replaced the seperator plate, installed TCC PWM eliminator, new accumulator pistons, vette servo, drilled small hole for TCC apply, and she has 340K on it now with OE frictions. Unfortunately my youngest newest driver walked away from a fender bender and the Envoy did not, so I'm fine with that.

If the 6L80E is as straightforward as the 4L60E as far as R&R valves then I might tackle it. I (ignorantly) would like to think the converter would at least be somewhat of a step forward but again, with 140K it's a roll of the dice. I've rebuilt a few V8's but a transmission is one area I haven't spent much time inside.

I use it mainly for mostly highway commuting, probably 70/30 hwy-cty, doesn't get abused for the most part.

At least a Zip Kit as Pressure Regulator Valve wear is very prevalent in 6LxxE units, Causes pressure spikes that cracks the 1234 piston, Cracks the 1234/35R drum & can balloon the converter.

Can all this be done with the valve body removed, or are some of these more internal?

Thanks for the tips.

 

[clinebarger]

The pump has to come out to do the Pressure Regulator Valve & Boost Valve part of the kit.

Zip Kit instructions are pretty good, You can view it in PDF off Sonnax's website.

Also update the Spacer Plate to a '14 & up version 24272467, You will add a checkball for a total of 8 instead of 7, Explained HERE

Part# 24054651 will come with all the seals you need. (Zip Kit install, Not full rebuild/freshen)