Any recommendations on new "car buying" brokers?

GON

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Looks like the SIL is going to purchase a new F150 (Lariat or above for the auto 4wd/ prefer 2.7L)

Think it might be best for SIL to go through a car buying broker.

Any recommendations for a broker? SIL lives in the greater Denver area.
 
She banks at Navy Federal, but no USAA.
Does she have a Costco membership? If so, check out their car buying service. Someone on this forum used them to reasonable success. Also since it is Denver area, she might contact the internet sales people at five different Ford dealerships for pricing info.
 
Thanks @Astro14 , Daughter just became a USAA member and they are inputting things into the car buying service.
The list price on the Avalon at the time was $34,500. Invoice was $30,800. Within minutes of inputting the details on USAA I had three local offers for $31,800.

Not a screaming deal but a fair price with zero negotiation. Zero effort on my part. Armed with those offers, my wife and I took her mother to go get a car.

I’ll be curious about your daughter’s experience. Particularly if it’s in Colorado, where everything is ridiculously overpriced and experiencing high demand as the state keeps growing.
 
The list price on the Avalon at the time was $34,500. Invoice was $30,800. Within minutes of inputting the details on USAA I had three local offers for $31,800.

Not a screaming deal but a fair price with zero negotiation. Zero effort on my part. Armed with those offers, my wife and I took her mother to go get a car.

I’ll be curious about your daughter’s experience. Particularly if it’s in Colorado, where everything is ridiculously overpriced and experiencing high demand as the state keeps growing.


Little bit of sad news from the SIL:

Well turns out USAA discontinued their car buying service. I’m sure the membership will prove beneficial in other ways though. Google referred me to navy federal instead, which partners with TrueCar, which I think is more of an aggregator than actual broker and I received 5 calls immediately after entering my trade info. So, still looking for an actual broker.
 
Little bit of sad news from the SIL:

Well turns out USAA discontinued their car buying service. I’m sure the membership will prove beneficial in other ways though. Google referred me to navy federal instead, which partners with TrueCar, which I think is more of an aggregator than actual broker and I received 5 calls immediately after entering my trade info. So, still looking for an actual broker.
Oh, well, I am sorry to hear that - and I apologize for the outdated recommendation!

Please let us know how Navy Federal works out. I negotiated the Tundra, and the Avalon. Our most recent car was a lease, because those terms were so much more favorable than a buy, and Volvo just doesn’t negotiate.

I don’t have a ton of experience in this - I’ve always been the guy who buys a used car and drives it forever.

But new sure is nice!
 
Oh, well, I am sorry to hear that - and I apologize for the outdated recommendation!

Please let us know how Navy Federal works out. I negotiated the Tundra, and the Avalon. Our most recent car was a lease, because those terms were so much more favorable than a buy, and Volvo just doesn’t negotiate.

I don’t have a ton of experience in this - I’ve always been the guy who buys a used car and drives it forever.

But new sure is nice!
Going with new based on my strong FIL recommendation.

Unlike most cars, some late model trucks have low mileage but very high engine hours, driver lets the vehicle run on a job site the entire day while it sits. Years ago I noticed ATT service trucks also let the engine run from dawn to dusk, while the ATT tech was inside a building.

My old man recommendation was for a late model F150-- buy new and take advantage of the rebates/ incentives. Only buy a used late model F150 if you "know the owner". Owner being a retired guy in Phoenix who never drove it and no longer can drive. I can imagine buying a late model F150 that was towing a camper like a madman through the Colorado grades. Transmission, u joints, even brakes likely all tore up... something an inspection would not reveal.
 
TrueCar is shady
Try it several places like a credit union and you will actually get over $1000 plus higher price.. Other websites can dial in the numbers...
More profit for them
 
I just call the dealer and hash it out
Look at the Doc fees, accept no add ons and I tell them I'm not interested in anything but the car and if you try I walk...

Got over 20% off my last vehicle and no upsell attempts... and no crazy mixing up of the fees to confuse you...a common trick... know your rebates too, don't ask the dealer..
 
Broker for car purchase? I guess I learned something new today. I wonder if they can negotiate a better price than the actual buyer?
Broker is just "your" representative, a layer between you and the dealer.

The car salesman has zero authorization to sell you the car at a new car dealership, the salesman has to go to the general sales manager, and the buyer is not present when that happens. So, a broker turns the table on the negotiation process, the broker can't approve the deal either, has to go to the buyer for approval. Having a broker levels the playing field.
 
Trucar works for the dealers, they're a sucker referral service. One should still try them, just to see what the ballpark is. The effort is low and you just have to avoid phone calls and emails for a couple of weeks.

That said I used it twice for new Prii and felt like I got good deals, but market timing gets 95% of the credit for that.
 
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