Any downside to leaving cured wax in place?

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el Nuke

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So instead of doing things the right way, you'd prefer to do them incorrectly on purpose and then boast about it on bitog while plugging your ears and shouting "la la la la la I can't hear you"

That's fine. Perhaps an email to Meguiar's would have been a more direct way to receive an opinion you value.
The right way? Lol.

please accept my apologies for wrinkling your Saturday like this. I’ll try to be more cognizant of the repercussions of my threads in the future.
 
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That's about one of the dumbest things I've heard in a while on an automotive forum. Just buff the wax off like you're supposed to and don't leave it on. Not difficult to understand and even the most basic of DIY car maintenance can be screwed up by some people..
 

el Nuke

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Serious question: how do you plan to remove this wax residue in 3-6 months, when it is time to re-wax?

I will not be removing the wax. How and when it gets removed is up to Mother Nature.
The car, and its paint, have 200K miles on it. It spent its first 100K miles as a squad car for a local PD. It took me 2.5 years to rack up the other 100K.
The paint has scratches and chips and holes and dings up one side and down the other. There is even some animal hair in a crack in the front bumper from a collision with a deer a while back.

In other words the paint is not in pristine condition, not even close. But I am not content to let the paint further deteriorate while it sits, undriven for weeks at a time, in my driveway. Thus, I used up the last of my Megs UW on it, after washing, claying, and washing again, of course.
I skipped the buffing step and left the UW as it sits. In 3-6 months, after a whopping 1-2 miles have been added to the odometer, I’ll do it again, if necessary.
 

el Nuke

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Wonder if this member leaves the shampoo in his hair after showering......? Why rinse, it's protecting my hair? :oops:
I don’t see any upside to that, but here’s something I did do with this same car that’s currently covered in wax in my driveway: I replaced working OE engine and emissions hardware with new aftermarket hardware purchased locally at an O’Reilly Auto and Advance Auto. Not just a few things either, I’m talking:
  • IAT sensor
  • Engine coolant temp sensor
  • Oil temp sensor
  • Crank position sensor
  • Camshaft position sensor
  • PCV valve
  • Thermostat
  • Upper and lower Radiator hoses
  • Oil cooler coolant hoses
  • Water pump
  • Oxygen sensors (all 4)
  • Alternator
Full disclosure - the alternator was purchased off of Rock Auto, and I kept the working OE unit instead of sending in to get core refund.

That was all done with roughly 120K miles on the car, and the parts replaced were all working when removed.

Fast forward a couple years, and I did it all again for my 2014 with ~100K mikes on it, with the exception of the alternator and O2 sensors.

If/when the alternator on this 2014 goes, I’ll replace it with the OE unit from the 2012. And I just need to save up some money first and then I’ll purchase all 4 Oxygen sensors to replace the OE ones on the 2014.

I might be lazy, but I’m lazy with new (ostensibly inferior) hardware on my cars!
 

el Nuke

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Oh yeah, I forgot to throw in these two things I’ve done in the past:
- wash, clay, polish, wax, remove wax, and then wash again A RENTAL CAR.
- change the oil and filter on A RENTAL CAR.

(not a fancy rental either, one was a Kia econobox sedan, the other was a Nissan Sentra IIRC.)

Lazy, eccentric, and non-sensical - that’s what should come to mind if anyone ever mentions me...and impervious, throw that one in too.
 
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Good grief, we have so much extra free time that now we are questioning whether the decades old practice of using wax properly is the right way to go?

I am amazed, dumbfounded, confused, yet laughing my *** off.
 

el Nuke

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DFW Metroplex
Good grief, we have so much extra free time that now we are questioning whether the decades old practice of using wax properly is the right way to go?

I am amazed, dumbfounded, confused, yet laughing my *** off.
————————
From Horses to the Horseless carriage...

From non-powered flight to powered flight...

From 30 weight engine oil to 20 weight...
————————

Q: What do all these things have in common?

A: They were better ways of doing something that did not conform to conventional wisdom, yet their inventors forged a new path into the future despite the ridicule and derision they faced for daring to dream.

Now, I’m not so vein as to think I can...Oh snap! I just a found bottle of Surf City Garage Barrier Reef spray wax I lost a while back. Hot diggitty!!

Looks like that Meg’s UW sitting unbuffed on The Bacon Hauler’s paint is about to get a fancy carnauba topper wax!

And no, I will not be buffing the SCG wax off once cured either. I mean, at this point, I don’t see anyway I can even think about doing something so foolish!

Stay tuned, I’ll post some pics of her after I’m done...
 
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283
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Ontario Niagara region
I will not be removing the wax. How and when it gets removed is up to Mother Nature.
The car, and its paint, have 200K miles on it. It spent its first 100K miles as a squad car for a local PD. It took me 2.5 years to rack up the other 100K.
The paint has scratches and chips and holes and dings up one side and down the other. There is even some animal hair in a crack in the front bumper from a collision with a deer a while back.

In other words the paint is not in pristine condition, not even close. But I am not content to let the paint further deteriorate while it sits, undriven for weeks at a time, in my driveway. Thus, I used up the last of my Megs UW on it, after washing, claying, and washing again, of course.
I skipped the buffing step and left the UW as it sits. In 3-6 months, after a whopping 1-2 miles have been added to the odometer, I’ll do it again, if necessary.
[/QUOTE

Considering the car's paint condition, that is the correct thing to do.
 
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