I want to see how the new dexos gen3 version holds up. Prior version would dip into the 20 grade range quite quickly (me thinks by design hence the AFE name).
Any 0w30 users here?
- Thread starter 53' Stude
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Yup late model BMW, Mercedes and possibly other Euro. I don't like the fact that you have to allow the engine to warm up before you can get a read. What if you get the fill wrong? Making sure I count the quarts as I pour them in!My friend's used bmw "limo" doesn't have a dipper. He goes into a menu on the head unit display and it reads out oil level and condition.
Of course, a well dressed man does not want soot or grease on his French cuff,
plus just opening the hood is a vulgar action in many circles, as it signals a "personal failure".
I don't think Mobil 1 has updated any of their formulations since October 2010 because their original API SN formulations met anything from API SN PLUS to SP and GM dexos1 Gen 2 to dexos1 Gen 3. I am pretty sure that the same formulation in October 2010 will also meet API SQ and SR and GM dexos1 Gen 4 and dexos1 Gen 5 ten–twenty years from now. That's how far Mobil 1 is ahead of the game while the BITOG'ers are splitting hairs on whether M1 0W-30 is as good as the generic-additive-pack Warren-Oil-blended Mopar 0W-30.
May I ask why?
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Yet the biggest Mopar heist is selling ATF for over $30 a quart …I don't think Mobil 1 has updated any of their formulations since October 2010 because their original API SN formulations met anything from API SN PLUS to SP and GM dexos1 Gen 2 to dexos1 Gen 3. I am pretty sure that the same formulation in October 2010 will also meet API SQ and SR and GM dexos1 Gen 4 and dexos1 Gen 5 ten–twenty years from now. That's how far Mobil 1 is ahead of the game while the BITOG'ers are splitting hairs on whether M1 0W-30 is as good as the generic-additive-pack Warren-Oil-blended Mopar 0W-30.
What better 0W-30 options would you suggest, and why?
You're probably right. In terms of the VOA's very little has changed in 10 years or so. Probably only different base oil blends and small tweaks likley from suppliers etc.I don't think Mobil 1 has updated any of their formulations since October 2010 because their original API SN formulations met anything from API SN PLUS to SP and GM dexos1 Gen 2 to dexos1 Gen 3. I am pretty sure that the same formulation in October 2010 will also meet API SQ and SR and GM dexos1 Gen 4 and dexos1 Gen 5 ten–twenty years from now. That's how far Mobil 1 is ahead of the game while the BITOG'ers are splitting hairs on whether M1 0W-30 is as good as the generic-additive-pack Warren-Oil-blended Mopar 0W-30.
just opening the hood is a vulgar action in many circles, as it signals a "personal failure".
ACEA C2/C3 and A3/B4 are not the correct SAE 0W-30 grade. The OEM recommends an ILSAC 0W-30, which has HTHS ~ 3.0 cP. C2/C3 and A3/B4 have HTHS ≥ 3.5 cP. KV100 doesn't matter. A3/B4 is especially wrong because it is full-SAPS, which could cause harmful intake-valve deposits and reduce the catalytic-converter and oxygen-sensor life. Use A3/B4 only in older cars or when recommended by the OEM.
All my cars are older and high mileage. So A3/B4 is all they get, usually with Porsche A40 and MB 229.5 tacked on for "good measure". It's been a while since I used Castrol 0W-30 though, these days I seem to be going for molasses in 0W-40/5W-40. Mobil 1 FS or Quaker State Euro, or Castrol Edge if the first two aren't available.
Oil consumption would have to be significant to cause these conditions; or am I wrong here?
I'm using the m1 0w30 but have topped off with Redline 0w or 5w if I don't have a already opened jug. 0w20 users would find a 0w30 a tad quieter and maybe lil less volatile if gdi or t-gdi is what you got.
I ran 4 consecutive 8.5qt runs of Ravenol ALS 0w-30 in my LR4.. I have run Mobil 1 AFE 0w30 in my snowblower, generator and lawnmower...
I use Mobil 1 AFE 0W30 in the '07 Honda. Temps here range from -40C to +40C, so a 0W30 makes sense to me. I would prefer M1 ESP 0W30, but it's harder to find, and not on sale as often as the AFE.
Jackson_Slugger
$50 Site Donor 2022
For what`? What are you trying to achieve? I've used M1 AFE 0W-30 (and 20) several times since it's release. I wanted easy cold starts on frigid mornings but never had a reservation using either in the summer as well in appropriate applications. For the OP if price is no object this might be a good option, or ordering the MOTUL version online. But I'm guessing a Kia dealership that sells a lot of Stingers might have it for cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/Motul-Synthe...jAuOTIifQ==&sprefix=motul+0w-30,aps,87&sr=8-1
https://press.kia.com/content/dam/k...l/KIA_ORIGINAL_OIL_0W-30_C2_MTR_EU_EN_ccr.pdf
Perhaps Gokhan is correct and Exxon-Mobil has gotten a bit sloppy with their PDS listings, but not confidence instilling...
Intake-valve deposits, mostly coming from the oil, happen in every direct-injection engine. The only way to remedy them is to use low-to-mid-SAPS and high-quality-base-oil motor oils.
Low-to-mid-SAPS oil will also extend the spark-plug life.
The original German 'green' Castrol is no more.
The supply of unicorn tears has dried up, the love is gone.
Sort of like the made in the U.S. fake garbage InBev is selling as a Becks pilsner.
this corporate ruining all seemed to start with Löwenbräu in the 70's
Disclaimer: Castrol 0w-30 European Formula
pds EDGE 0W-30 A3/B4 02 May 2016 list the following Performance Claims:
Product Performance Claims
ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4
API SL/CF
BMW Longlife-01
MB-Approval 229.3/ 229.5
VW 502 00 / 505 00
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