Antiseize on spark plugs

[Patman]

I was going to post this in the other thread, but felt it deserved it's own topic.

I'm curious as to the benefits of putting antiseize on spark plugs as opposed to simply using motor oil on the threads? Everyone has motor oil lying around, so why spend extra $$ buying antiseize? (especially when some of it could get into your combustion chamber)

 

[Motorbike]

What does motor oil do at 600-700F ?

Does the question answer yours ?

 

[The Oil Expert]

Patman, motor oil even synthetic will evaporate quickly on spark plug threads. Permatex brand antisieze won't. I have had plugs in for over 100,000 miles and never had a problem removing them using this product. I posted this in an earlier thread but it bears repeating. You are a great guy to have on this sight, you spend a lot of time and more importantly your own money posting UOA's and sharing it with everyone on this sight.

To Patman!

 

[TallPaul]

Am I correct that there are a couple different kinds of antiseize, one for aluminum and one for cast iron?

BTW, I tried to buy a small container and all NAPA had were rather large (for my use) cans of about 6 oz or so. I saw a recent ad where they had the stuff in a glue stick type dispenser, but haven't found it yet.

 

[Ugly3]

Spark Plugs

 

[Patman]

Interesting info everyone, although I will back this up by saying I've never used antiseize on plugs that I've installed, and have never had a problem taking the plugs out later. I still see the oil on the threads when I pull them out.

 

[Kestas]

Patman, since you post here, I'll assume you're a DIYer that diligently maintains his cars -- this includes frequent spark plug changes. You'll have less of a chance of seeing thread galling than say a person who leaves his plugs in for 100,000 miles (like some of my friends). I've read too many horror stories of people dealing with galled and stripped spark plug threads to ignore the simple preventive measure of using antisieze. Dealing with stripped spark plug holes is not a fun way to spend an afternoon.

Oil can dry, bake, or coke up. The idea of using antisieze is to use a solid lubricant, such as pure lead flakes, pure aluminum flakes, pure copper flakes, or pure zinc flakes. Where I'm going with this is that pure metals by nature are dead-soft, or "soft as butter". They will stay there as long as it doesn't see melting temperatures and give you the lubricity needed after being heated and exposed to corrosive environment.

The expense is minimal. You don't have to use much. With all the wrenching I do, I'm still using the 6 oz bottle of nickel-based antisieze given to me 22 years ago by a friendly maintenance person at Chrysler, before it was popularly available over the counter. I use it for every fastener I disturb on my cars, especially the ones that are threaded into aluminum.

 

[K-Man]

Even with antiseize you should consider simply removing the plugs and reinstalling them every 25,000 or so miles. On many cars it's a pain, but seized plugs are an even bigger pain.

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by ekrampitzjr:
Even with antiseize you should consider simply removing the plugs and reinstalling them every 25,000 or so miles. On many cars it's a pain, but seized plugs are an even bigger pain.

---

If you're going to remove them anyways, why not simply replace them with new ones? Even with platinum plugs, you probably don't want to leave them in beyond 25k unless it's an all day job to change them (like it was on my last vehicle)

 

[paulo57509]

I don't use the greasy anti-sieze anymore.

I use this stuff:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/antiseize.php

It's graphite in a real watery carrier.

I don't know if it works any better than the greasy stuff.

 

[tmorris1]

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman:

---

If you're going to remove them anyways, why not simply replace them with new ones? Even with platinum plugs, you probably don't want to leave them in beyond 25k unless it's an all day job to change them (like it was on my last vehicle) [/QUOTE]
Changing platinum plugs at 25K would be a waste of time and money in my opinion. I have seen plugs go almost 100,000 and they look very good, but maybe it depends on the engine.

 

[TallPaul]

How about we use Redline motor oil on the spark plug threads?

 

[Motorbike]

quote:

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Originally posted by TallPaul:
How about we use Redline motor oil on the spark plug threads?

---

I would first need to see that corrosion

was not a problem so

you first

 

[brianl703]

quote:

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Originally posted by TallPaul:

BTW, I tried to buy a small container and all NAPA had were rather large (for my use) cans of about 6 oz or so. I saw a recent ad where they had the stuff in a glue stick type dispenser, but haven't found it yet.

---

Autozone/Pep Boys/Advance Auto have antisieze in small tubes, they also have it in small packets too.

Antisieze seems to leave a metallic coating in the threads, so even if you don't use antisieze when you install new plugs, if someone used antisieze previously, the antisieze still in the threads might still do it's job.

 

[XS650]

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman:
If you're going to remove them anyways, why not simply replace them with new ones? Even with platinum plugs, you probably don't want to leave them in beyond 25k unless it's an all day job to change them (like it was on my last vehicle)

---

Is your C5 any better? My C4 looks like a bear to change the plugs.

Different engine, different car, but they both have 10 lbs of "stuff" in a 5 lb bag.

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by tmorris1:

Changing platinum plugs at 25K would be a waste of time and money in my opinion. I have seen plugs go almost 100,000 and they look very good, but maybe it depends on the engine.

---

It also depends on the brand too. OEM AC Delco platinums are crap. I pulled out mine with just 32k on them and most of them were in terrible shape. The gaps had opened up a lot (thanks to the platinum "pucks" disappearing from them)

I've pulled out a lot of original AC Delco platinums from cars I've owned and not one of them looked like they could've gotten anywhere near 100k.

 

[Whimsey]

I'm a true believer in using antisieze on any threads that are exposed to high heat. Anything from the sparkplugs to the exhaust system. In fact it works great on keeping threads from rusting in general. Or if you want a less obvious thread protector for non heat areas, or where the metalic antisieze is not appropriate, such as brake bleeder screws, I use LPS 3. It works great on new threads and also on lightly rusted metals to keep them from rusting further.

Whimsey

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Is your C5 any better? My C4 looks like a bear to change the plugs.

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My C5's plugs are easy! I did them all yesterday morning in 45 minutes without even breaking a sweat. I didn't get a single cut or scratch either.

I'll be doing the plugs in my wife's 2000 Civic in the next couple of weeks too. Those are the easiest of all, with all the plugs right up top. I can do them in under 10min.

 

[Patman]

One thing I worry about with using antiseize is what happens when you get some of it in the combustion chamber, and then what if it gets into your oil? Will it skew the UOA results?

 

[Whimsey]

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman:

The gaps had opened up a lot (thanks to the platinum "pucks" disappearing from them)

---

I thought I read where the AC Delco platinum plugs were having a problem with the platinum "pucks" falling off them. Since your plugs are a "snap" to change are you using copper ones now? I'm insanely jealous. The plugs on my Ford truck are a bear to change

. But then the plugs on my 2.0L Contour are a "piece of cake" to change

. The wife's Explorer falls somewhere in between

.

Whimsey