Another M1 5w40 question

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Racer12306
quote:
car: 2004 Dodge Neon SXT
engine: 2.0L sohc 132 hp/130 ft-lbs
trans: manual
mileage: the car currently has 37500ish miles on it. the time when i would need to change the oil with something other than my current oil supply will be at approx 45000 miles.
modifications: stock with the exception of a K&N air filter and two little breather filters that eliminate the use of the pcv valve (an attempt to reduce/eliminate oil consumption or atleast keep oil out of the intake manifold), if these really count as modifications.
commute: i drive 50 miles each way to school. it is during drive time for the most part. time is anywhere from an hour to two and a half hours, but generally hour to an hour and a half. very rarely does this car see less than 15 mile trips.
current oil use: i am currently using M1 5w30. it has had syn oil since 5000 miles (except for a short time period between 15000 and 20000 miles). i uses approximately 1 to 1.5 qts in my 5000 mile oci.
my reasons for switching to 5w40: my goals are to reduce oil consumption, reduce the knock that is common with neons, provide better protection for my engine (it has to last a long time, maybe 150,000 to 200,000 if not a little more)
better choices: would a better choice be the M1 0w40, the GC 0w30 (since i have heard its a thick 30wt, nearly a 40wt), BC 5w40, rotella t 5w40, other options are appreciated.
Click to expand...
If you want good information on any of the neons 95 through 04 then go to www.neons.org

Your second gen neon is not using much oil, so don’t worry about it.
1 – 1.5 quarts over 5000 miles? Very normal.

As for the knock it is either piston slap or valve train noise you are hearing…I would have to listen.
DO NOT use 5w-40….your engine is speced for 5w30 preferred.

Stick with 5w30!!
 
nobadges ..just what are you implying will happen if he does use it? It's not like he's seeing your -30 winter. If he's unlucky, he'll hit the low teens.

For him to use this ... it would be the same for you to use a 0w-20 under those conditions. What are you using to compensate for that ..and does every Neon user in Canada do the same?

Unless he has some mechanical issue that is exacerbated by higher visc oil ..there is no reason that he can't use this stuff.

You made it sound like his engine would spontaniously grenade.
grin.gif
 
nobadges:
i actually have two threads over there on M1 5w40. i generally brouse the second gen threads but venture into other stuff sometimes. same user name. in my personal opinion 1 - 1.5 qts in 5000 miles is not normal. my fiances 2.0 beetle doesnt even use that much oil, the 98 2.0's were know to drink oil. i believe this car has knocked for a while. why are you saying do not use it? i know that dodge says to use 5w30 but i have learned that it maybe out of fuel economy requirements. speced oil seems to be a balence between fuel economy and protection. and if you sacrifice one the other will go up.

gary:
i understand autorx helping a high mileage car from using oil, but what about my situation. i have owned and maintained the car since new and it has always used oil.
 
i received a response from mobil about why it would not satisfy warrenty requirements.


quote:
Your owner's manual will be requiring an energy conserving motor oil most likely and the Mobil1 5W40 is too heavy and has higher levels of
anti-wear additives to be classified as energy conserving.

-Matt
Click to expand...
is an energy conserving oil really necessary? i understand it may allow for maximum fuel economy but other than that, why
 
quote:
Mobil1 5W40 is too heavy and has higher levels of
anti-wear additives to be classified as energy conserving
Click to expand...
I don't think the additives prevent M1 5W-40 from being rated "energy conserving." An xW-40 is simply to thick to qualify. Not even all xW-30 are rated "energy conserving." GC isn't, or is it?
 
quote:
gary:
i understand autorx helping a high mileage car from using oil, but what about my situation. i have owned and maintained the car since new and it has always used oil.
Click to expand...
If you've got a condition existing from day one ..then probably Auto-Rx isn't going to fix it. If you're confident that your oil consumption has been consistant from new ..then don't use it for that reason. A good cleaning never hurt though.

Your consumption is just annoying. Some people consume nearly as much oil as you do ..but they change it before enough is consumed to add any. They would say that they had to add no make up oil and may even think that their engine doesn't consume any (they don't know). There are also two types of consumption. One is linear. Every xxx miles it uses a quart. No worries ..whatever is allowing the consumption is not degrading. Then there's consumption that increases as you get further out from new oil. That is, 0-2k ..no consumption ..2k on ...consumption. This means that you probably need a different oil. Still no worries ..just find the right oil. That's where analysis helps because with a couple of tests you can see just what's happening to the oil to cause the consumption (shearing, whatever).

Although I wouldn't be pleased to have your consumption ..I wouldn't be too annoyed at it either. If it progressively used more ..then I would start dwelling on it a bit more.
 
thanks to everyone for their posts.

so i see my options as this

1. stick with M1 5w30 plain

2. use M1 5w30 with VSOT

3. use GC

4. use M1 5w40

5. mix M1 5w30 and M1 5w40 (percentage would be determined later)

please post your vote

again thanks to everyone for their wealth of knowledge.
 
does anyone else on here have a neon with oil consumption issues, if so how did you reduce/stop it?

My son has a 1st gen neon. His was an over 100k beater that he bought fairly cheaply. Auto-Rx reduced his consumption. Now it's hard to track since his commute is about a mile as opposed to 60 per day.

Just get the T&SUV. The GC is too expensive in comparison. T&SUV, although not unique like GC, is just about the stoutest oil out there. I've only ever seen one member that's been able to beat it up to the point that it showed any impact of insult. With your driving, it should last a year without troubles.

You must have a CCV (continuous crankcase ventilation) system. It uses a metered orifice instead of the traditional PCV valve.
 
I use the M1 5W40 in my Jeep Liberty with 3.7L V6. I've have not noted any milage decrease. In fact I've recorded a best of 22.6mpg with it.
 
GC

It's cheap for what you're getting (it still should be on sale for $3.99 qt).
It has developed quite a reputation around here:
truly unique PAO/Ester blend
delivers nice UOA's
known to be a "quiet" oil (according to multiple reports on this board)
 
I prefer not to mix "cross genre". I'll blend from the same product line (not just the same refiner) to avoid any different package properties. Not "additive clash" ..just you may only get half the dose of what would be 100% dose otherwise. So, Super Synth with SS .EP to EP..etc..etc.

Other than that reservation ...try them all and see what suits your fancy. GC is a great oil ..at times hard to find and usually expensive.

M1 5w-40 is an outstanding oil ..but isn't for everyone. It may be overkill. It's the poster child of the heavy weights. Extreme resistance to insult.

Before I would blend 5w30 M1 with 5w-40 M1, I would give the 0w-40 a try (or a blend between 5w30 and 0w-40).
 
Lol…

I didn’t mean for it to sound like you’re engine would explode with it.
I just think the 40 weight is too heavy when you only have 35000 miles?

I was concerned about your warranty. I have 2 neons myself (which should be in my signature but doesn’t work).
Chrysler dealers are very good at voiding/not honoring warranty.

On the other question…I just use 5w30 Mobil 1 for winter.

Sorry guys didn’t mean to sound so arrogant…I’ve had a bad bronchitis and the medicine the doc gave me is numbing my brain stem! Its quite pleasant actually…lol
fruit.gif
 
Racer12306
quote:
modifications: stock with the exception of a K&N air filter and two little breather filters that eliminate the use of the pcv valve (an attempt to reduce/eliminate oil consumption or at least keep oil out of the intake manifold), if these really count as modifications.
Click to expand...
In reference to your oil consumption issues…you mention 2 breather filters.
Where do you have these breathers installed?

Normally we only install a breather on the air makeup tube, which supplies fresh filtered air from the intake box to the crankcase to replace what is drawn off by the pcv.
Have you disconnected the pcv from the intake?
 
Good catch, nobadges.
smile.gif


Racer12306 ..open your umbrella ..if you've eliminated your PCV plumbing ..be prepared for the rain
grin.gif
 
yes the pcv system is eliminated, but jag told me about the adverse effects (that i was not aware of) earlier in the thread. i will be getting an air/oil separator before i reconnect the pcv system. prior to me using the breathers it was sucking oil into the intake manifold. the car ended up being less responsive until i cleaned it out really good and then put the breathers on. one is on the pcv valve itself and the other is on the air makeup tube. i unpluged it from the air box and put a breather on it. would i be better off leaving the breather on the tube or putting the tube back on the air box and running the oil separator.

i had been to the dealer about the oil consumption. they blamed it on a bad pcv valve and then they replaced it. it still consumed oil at the same rate.
 
racer12306 - did you cap the nipple that the breather hose came off of on your airbox? The reason that I ask is that typically the PCV/CCV system grabs its fresh air from behind (intake side of) the air filter. That assures that no matter what level of blowby you have, it hits the combustion chamber. It either gets drawn in below the throttle plate (various degrees of "managable" blowby) ..or above the throttle body if it is unmanagable.

If you didn't cap this fitting, you were sucking in unfiltered air in mass quantities into your engine.
 
where the pcv hose would normally go on the intake manifold, i capped that. i did not cap the air box because it is not necessary. that one is not directly connected after the air filter. all air in my car is filtered.

but i did just buy the stuff to make an air/oil separator so i will get on that this weekend and the pcv system will be back in working order. and we shall see how oil consumption goes. whether what is in the separator equals the loss on the stick. i dont think it will but i will find out.
 
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