Another Lubro Moly Question

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Thanks to you guys I had my local Napa get me some MoS2. $4.50 a can, can't go wrong. Anyway, I just added about 2/3 bottle to the ~4.5qts Castrol Edge in my 3.8l Eclipse and hope to get some uoa in a little bit.

Anyway, after doing some reading on here, I am a little confused if I should add the MoS2 at every oil change? I've seen some posts stating that it stays longer in your engine than your oil?
 
If your car holds 4.5 quarts of oil you can either add 4 ounces of Lubro-Moly at each OCI or do it every other OCI.

If you get a UOA done it should show how much Moly you have in the oil sample.
 
still are not personally sure Id want that in my oil... unless a finished blended product. good luck though!
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
still are not personally sure Id want that in my oil... unless a finished blended product. good luck though!


Why do you feel that way? not arguing, but more interested in your opinion.
 
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
I usually add MoS2 but I would think adding it to Castrol Edge is overkill.


I would think that Moly added to any oil that was not already high in it would help?
 
I've used it in a mower, snow blower, and 93 Aerostar so far. The mower had issues with blowing a little oil when it started, the LM stopped it. No comment on the snow blower it runs fine no mattter what I use in it. The Aerostar ran a tad cooler, and the oil pressure was slightly lower, over all it is running great.

I spoke with the company and was told that it can be added every other OC. Then I read here a while back that it could be used every OCI. I think after the initial treatment 1 ounce LM/qt of oil at each OCI is what I will do in the Aerostar. There seems to be a lot of positive feedback surrounding the product.
 
Safe to use at every oil change (even in a new engine). If you're looking for something that lasts longer, MotorProtect or Cera Tech is a better alternative.
 
Originally Posted By: zddp77
You additives junkies crack me up LOL.


The only additives I've ever really used is Restore, and I think I've had decent results on it with my older engines. '86 Saab 900 8v na engine 180k (no longer own) and I've also used in my '95 Ram 5.7l 100+k with good results, uses less oil. The MoS2 I picked up because as stated above, I've read some good things about it on this site. I do believe that todays oils are formulated well, but again I think that the moly increase would help out and oil that does not have a high concentration already. Not trying to fix anything, but I see it as an improvement if any, not to harm it.
 
Lubro Moly [Liqui Moly] has recommended it's use every oil change.
But they are in business to sell it!
A good initial dose is best.
For the next oil change, some will remain in residual oil, and the moly should have clung and 'plated' on surfaces.

So full strength should not be needed in the future.

It is pretty cheap, so I'd continue to add some.

BTW, so far so good with my initial dose of Lubro Moly.
It is in conjunciton with warmer weather, so things naturally are better anyways.
But I know my engine, and I do believe she is freer.
 
I can tell you for sure, MoS2 has lowered my blowby from my KA24DE significantly to almost none. You can smell it usually after a hard run and then a decelleration from 6k rpms all the way down.

I made a thread a while back about my PCV valves passing too much blowby residue and burning it during hard runs (no cat converter - so you could smell it out the exhaust). I was tinkering with the idea of venting to atmosphere. While the PCV valve was still stock, I started using MoS2. The blowby lessend, however by the time I was on my 2nd OCI of MoS2, I removed my PCV valve and it was completly spotless. Now I replaced the PCV valve with a 3/8th threaded to 5/8ths barbed NPT fitting and venting it to atmosphere. There is no blowby smell.

This is with Amsoil SSO 0w30, with 1/2 bottle of MoS2. The amsoil SSO burned about 1/2 qt too the first hundred miles of the OCI. This is only an observation and too soon to say MoS2 will help the cylinder walls.

Best of all, I recently diagnoses a locked up rear caliper. I could have been driving for the past year with a completely locked up caliper.
 
Originally Posted By: daman
There's always a good residue left from drain to drain with this product so every other OC is sufficient.


That's what I thought. I think after the initial full bottle run 1 ounce/qt of oil should be plenty. JMO
 
demarpaint...say you have a 5 quart sump do you really believe adding 5 ounces of this stuff is going too make any difference in engine protection.
 
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If you have a full bottle in the engine from the prior OC, yes. You would be boosting the moly count and maintaining the film IMO. Moly plates itself to metal and is pretty tough to remove. Ever coat a bullet with the stuff? After firing a few shots the moly brunishes itself to the inside of the barrel.
 
Originally Posted By: zddp77
demarpaint...say you have a 5 quart sump do you really believe adding 5 ounces of this stuff is going too make any difference in engine protection.

Moly is Moly and Moly is a great add along with his residue moly, i'd say yes!
 
Curious.. I run Redline in my Mustangs. Redline is dosed with a good amount of moly. If this product was added to Redline what type of moly count, are we talking about then?

For a rough number, off the top of my head, I believe Redline is about 6-800 PPM in VOA's.
 
I'm just curious if the same people using $5 additives to their oil and gas, are the same ones who refuse to pay for a Wix/P1 oil filter instead of SuperTech?
 
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