5000 mile filter change, very little material on the magnets. Looks like the Detroit is finally broken in.
Yes, I've run two vehicles with these and never changed the oil, I'd have to go back and look, but Triton V10 for two years and Cummins 6BT for 2-3 years. Both vehicles got good oil reports back and oil was continued in service without changing. The Cummins was lost in an accident 2 years ago, but I still own the V10. The Detroit is running a Frantz as well, but because I'm running it on 100% used cooking oil, I change the oil every 10,000 miles.Have you ever ran a used oil analysis with one of those?
Yes, does this all the time.I haven't seen paper do that before, the outer sheets pulled down, does this happen sometimes? What do you think causes this?
I remember that Scott 1000 you used in a previous post, it compressed down almost an inch and a half with 100 psi, must be the nature of the Kirkland paper to do this instead, I do find that the Kirkland rolls are kind of 'springy' compared to other paper, when I compressed them in a M100.Yes, does this all the time.I think 100 psi oil pressure does this.
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True, I haven't used the Scott 1000 for some time now, but the Kirkland brand pushes the outer layers up some. I pack them as tight as I can and they still do that.I remember that Scott 1000 you used in a previous post, it compressed down almost an inch and a half with 100 psi, must be the nature of the Kirkland paper to do this instead, I do find that the Kirkland rolls are kind of 'springy' compared to other paper, when I compressed them in a M100.
Ive seen it happen a few times. Didnt worry about it. Havent seen it happen in years. I just bought 6 pack of VIVA Signature cloth paper towels. Cut off a 4 1/2 inch element for my filters. Hard to cut with a knife especially the core. Probably use a fine tooth hacksaw and blow off the loose stuff. 4 1/4 inch diameter shouldnt pinch in the Motor Guard. A 5 1/2inch element looks good in the flat head Ford V8 canister filter.I may have a theory on this, there is a density change in the roll from being packed tight into the can, there is division between the two, the lower density and higher density of the roll resulting in the movement of the outer layer.
One morning the dispatcher said I have a driver out sick. You will be driving his truck. I crawled up into the truck. The oil pressure didnt come up. 2 cycle Detroit. Go into the office and said there is no oil pressure. The dispatcher said its a Detroit it does not need oil pressure. And you guys are talking about 100 PSI. When Frantz had the 2 3 and 4 stacker the single would have been too small for a diesel.Yes, does this all the time.I think 100 psi oil pressure does this.
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One morning the dispatcher said I have a driver out sick. You will be driving his truck. I crawled up into the truck. The oil pressure didnt come up. 2 cycle Detroit. Go into the office and said there is no oil pressure. The dispatcher said its a Detroit it does not need oil pressure. And you guys are talking about 100 PSI. When Frantz had the 2 3 and 4 stacker the single would have been too small for a diesel I think on the 8V 71 there was not enough oil pressure to move the gauge. 40 PSI im told is enough when the oil is hot. My oil pump relief valve opens at 60 PSI on the Ford diesel tractor. I would think 100 psi would be extreme on any engine.Yes, does this all the time.I think 100 psi oil pressure does this.
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I have never seen the paper compress more than 1/2 inch. Thats some ugly paper. I had a Gulf Coast junior bolted to the plastic fan shroud on the 6.9 Ford. It drained good at shut down. I could change it and add a quart of oil in less than a minute. Never went over 2.000. miles. They are gone now The Australian Jackmaster Classic is just as good. In my opinion the Frantz is the messiest design. The Motor Guard needs the right paper.I remember that Scott 1000 you used in a previous post, it compressed down almost an inch and a half with 100 psi, must be the nature of the Kirkland paper to do this instead, I do find that the Kirkland rolls are kind of 'springy' compared to other paper, when I compressed them in a M100.
I hope none of you guys are running these filters with no orifice. Ive had a couple drill out the orifice to get faster filtering. I make orifices by running a 1/8 inch pipe tap into the female end of a 1/4 male pipe to female 1/4 pipe adapter. Put a 1/8 pipe plug in. The one you use a allen wrench to tighten.drill it 1/16 inch.. thats for the black Motor Guard M30. To convert the M 30 to motor oil remove the plastic parts. Press a 2 1/2 inch OD washer on the bottom for a core seal. Put a orifice in the inlet.No core needed with firm paper.I looked on Amazon and they sell Frantz kits now. Looking on Frantz site, the cellulose element is $4.95 and synthetic $10.95. Didn’t see the elements on Amazon. Maybe those are better?
Bought a few of the cellulose elements in the 80s. I dont think we had Scott 1000 then. They were like todays Scott 1000 with a heavy duty 1 1/2 inch core.I looked on Amazon and they sell Frantz kits now. Looking on Frantz site, the cellulose element is $4.95 and synthetic $10.95. Didn’t see the elements on Amazon. Maybe those are better?
I just measured a Motor Guard factory element. It is 4 1/4 diameter by 4 1/2 inches. I can cut my own elements from VIVA Signature Cloth.. It wont pinch in the gasket.I have never seen the paper compress more than 1/2 inch. Thats some ugly paper. I had a Gulf Coast junior bolted to the plastic fan shroud on the 6.9 Ford. It drained good at shut down. I could change it and add a quart of oil in less than a minute. Never went over 2.000. miles. They are gone now The Australian Jackmaster Classic is just as good. In my opinion the Frantz is the messiest design. The Motor Guard needs the right paper.
Bought a few of the cellulose elements in the 80s. I dont think we had Scott 1000 then. They were like todays Scott 1000 with a heavy duty 1 1/2 inch core.