Have been lurking here for quite some time,Excellent site!Which oil would you choose between rotella t 10w30 or m1ep 10w30 for a 2004 grand cherokee,4.0,with 24k miles?Plan on running somewhere around a 6k mile oci.
Another 4.0 Jeep Question
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4.0's don't show very nice wear metal numbers on UOA's with Mobil 1 10W30. Do a search and have a look.
Have looked through uoa's on 4.0's and regular m1.I was thinking the "ep" version might show better wear numbers.
From observations, it appears these 4.0's do good on a 40wt.
I'd be using a 5w-40 winter & summer.
I'd be using a 5w-40 winter & summer.
I'm currently running 10w30 in my Wrangler, but only because I received 2 years of free oil changes when I leased it. Otherwise, I would agree that, based on posted UOA's, a 5w-40 would be a better way to go. If you're already considering Rotella or Mobil 1, go with the Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 or Mobil 1 Truck & SUV.
Now, does it mean just because a 4.0 shows bad numbers with Mobil 1 10W30, all 10W30s are going to show bad numbers? I don't don't know about that and I would doubt that was the case. Isn't Mobil 1's 10W30 pretty thin compared to other 30wt oils?
I run 15W40 Delvac 1300 in my 4.0 except for in the fall/winter, then it gets a 10W30 until spring. Right now it has Mobil 5000 10W30 in it and all is well. Only Purolator PP or Motorcraft filters. No UOAs to post as I'm not that anal, but I will say the engine is actually quieter with the 10W30 than it is with the 15W40 diesel oil in it. Odd but true.
I run 15W40 Delvac 1300 in my 4.0 except for in the fall/winter, then it gets a 10W30 until spring. Right now it has Mobil 5000 10W30 in it and all is well. Only Purolator PP or Motorcraft filters. No UOAs to post as I'm not that anal, but I will say the engine is actually quieter with the 10W30 than it is with the 15W40 diesel oil in it. Odd but true.
Even with average UOA's this engine will likely outlast the rest of the vehicle. Try Pennzoil or Havoline 10w30 and you'll be very happy.
Guys, I know the uoa's of 5w40's show better wear numbers over plain mobil1.And there are a couple of good uoa's with conventional 10w30's.Heck i'm running 10w30 havoline now.I just havent been able to find any uoa's of a 4.0 using the rotella 10w30 or mobil1 ep.Back to the original question,which would you choose between the two oils?
If I were you, I'd nix both of them and stick with Havoline. I run Chevron 10W30 and have good UOA's.
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Rotella. 6k is a waste of good synthetic ..especially M1 EP.
..but you seem to be one of the few that have ever found Rotella 10w30.
Good luck!
..but you seem to be one of the few that have ever found Rotella 10w30.
Good luck!
Hello - noobie here so forgive me if I'm asking this in the wrong venue...
It seems like I remember when GM claimed the viscosity improver in 10W40 was the cause of sticky rings and oil consumption. It's also my understanding *the improver* is not a lubricant and does little more then thicken oil at higher operating temperatures.
My wife drives our 4.0 Jeep and I wonder now if I should consider a XX-40 of some kind...
Any thoughts?
Thanks!
It seems like I remember when GM claimed the viscosity improver in 10W40 was the cause of sticky rings and oil consumption. It's also my understanding *the improver* is not a lubricant and does little more then thicken oil at higher operating temperatures.
My wife drives our 4.0 Jeep and I wonder now if I should consider a XX-40 of some kind...
Any thoughts?
Thanks!
I ran Mobil1 10w30 in my 4.0 for 196,000 miles although now with Mobil 1 5w40 I would probably go with that and a 6-7,000 mile oci.
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Mr. Boston
The viscosity index improvers would be more correctly viewed (stated) as not allowing the oil to thin as much at higher operating temps. The more traditional way of stating it gives novices the impression that the oil thickens as it warms.
The liablility of using the amounts of VII needed to achieve such a polarity of specs for cold performance (10w) and operating visc (40) is that they tend to shear ..so you're essentially dealing with a decay factor in visc based on length of usage. I'll let others give you the expanded version.
As far as the use of a xw-40 weight in a 4.0 ...
It will probably show less Fe wear indicators when tested over a 30 weight. If your wife does mostly trips of around 10 miles ..then a 30 weight would probably produce the same low Fe. If she's a frequent flyer (higher mileage commutes) then I'd recommend a 40 weight. If you live in a 4 season climate with a decent amount of variance, then I'd recommend a synth in the 5w-40 persuasion.
As Eddie remarks, you'll get 200k out of the use of either. It's sorta like vitamin therapy. You're still gonna die at a certain point ..it'll just alter the condition you're in at that time.
The viscosity index improvers would be more correctly viewed (stated) as not allowing the oil to thin as much at higher operating temps. The more traditional way of stating it gives novices the impression that the oil thickens as it warms.
The liablility of using the amounts of VII needed to achieve such a polarity of specs for cold performance (10w) and operating visc (40) is that they tend to shear ..so you're essentially dealing with a decay factor in visc based on length of usage. I'll let others give you the expanded version.
As far as the use of a xw-40 weight in a 4.0 ...
As Eddie remarks, you'll get 200k out of the use of either. It's sorta like vitamin therapy. You're still gonna die at a certain point ..it'll just alter the condition you're in at that time.
Thanks Gary!
Most of her trips are way under ten miles - guess I'll just hang with 10W30.
BTW - do you think there was anything to GM's claim that large amounts of improvers can/did actually cause sticky rings?
-Boston-
Most of her trips are way under ten miles - guess I'll just hang with 10W30.
BTW - do you think there was anything to GM's claim that large amounts of improvers can/did actually cause sticky rings?
-Boston-
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I dunno
Some of our more well versed members on the topic take you to the fountain of knowledge on this. I'm a synth/heavy weight guy by nature - I like to steer clear of such issues and give them a wide berth -hence haven't paid as much attention to the "fat" of it
Gary's mental integration outside his scope of need (visions of Romper Room = "Be a "do"bee and not a "don't" bee):
High VII = a bad thing
Low/NO VII = a good thing
LOL - guess I'll wait until the "more well versed" check in...quote:
Originally posted by Gary Allan:
I dunnoI don't know how shearing automatically produces sludge ..although it surely can if visocity shifts that result from it cause additional insult.
Some of our more well versed members on the topic take you to the fountain of knowledge on this. I'm a synth/heavy weight guy by nature - I like to steer clear of such issues and give them a wide berth -hence haven't paid as much attention to the "fat" of it
Gary's mental integration outside his scope of need (visions of Romper Room = "Be a "do"bee and not a "don't" bee):
High VII = a bad thing
Low/NO VII = a good thing
I think it's more of did than a does for good dino 10W-40.quote:
Originally posted by Gary Allan:
I dunnoI don't know how shearing automatically produces sludge ..although it surely can if visocity shifts that result from it cause additional insult.
FWIW, back in the olden daze of 1995, even SAE J300 said that 10W-40 was light duty oil.
I suspect that IS quite a long time in oil/dog development years. Once burnt old habits are hard to break sometime... (no pun intended)quote:
Originally posted by XS650:
I think it's more of did than a does for good dino 10W-40.quote:
Originally posted by Gary Allan:
I dunnoI don't know how shearing automatically produces sludge ..although it surely can if visocity shifts that result from it cause additional insult.
FWIW, back in the olden daze of 1995, even SAE J300 said that 10W-40 was light duty oil.
Thanks,
Boston
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