Annoying rev hang in my MT car

That's a shame. Hard to fix the non linear clutch behaviour but a Cobb Tuning "tune" maybe could lessen the rev hang tendency. Not necessarily totally remove it - but make it less aggressive in its operation. For me a somewhat taller first gear would actually be my preference, well particularly in city driving.

For sure on that. It really was a shame because it was a great little car. It was almost like Subaru put out some with a 5MT as an after thought. Another issue was the cramped pedal positions. I couldn't wear size 11 winter boots without hitting the clutch and brake pedals at the same time.

The whole reason I bought that 2014 Crosstrek 5spd was I wanted to turn in my leased 2012 Legacy 2.5i premium. I was 6mo early, over miles, had worn snow tires on it and probably needing a brake job. I had been watching this particular crosstrek and it had been sitting on the lot untouched. I asked them if I bought that crosstrek today, would they take my lease in free and clear. It didn't take much back/forth for them to go for it.
 
My Focus was bad enough that it almost drove me away from manual transmissions. That had a PZEV setup and that HAD TO keep the cat light off at all costs. In addition to having the worst geared transmission ever, it would idle at 10MPH in 1st gear, not great for traffic ... .if I sat in traffic long enough, it would start bumping up the idle as we were creeping along. So I either had to ride the brakes to keep the thing somewhat slow or sit on the clutch/ slip the clutch to get the thing to creep along.

Yep the 6spd manual that's in mine (1.0L focus) is the same as the Fiesta ST and the gearing is so bad, you can pretty much just use 2nd and 4th for 99% of your driving. Speaking about traffic, I just got stuck in traffic today and made it half a mile in one hour
 
I mitigate it a little by adjusting my pedal timing. My ST hangs, so I've trained myself to release the gas a second before I depress the clutch. Doing it this way gets the clutch depressed just as the engine starts to transition from acceleration to deceleration. It helps.
I was trying your method while driving around town today. Took a while to get used to it but eventually I found the sweet spot and it works.
 
If you want to try something really fun, let your foot get used to this new method, and then hop in an old car with a cable-actuated throttle. LOL.
 
My Focus was bad enough that it almost drove me away from manual transmissions. That had a PZEV setup and that HAD TO keep the cat light off at all costs. In addition to having the worst geared transmission ever, it would idle at 10MPH in 1st gear, not great for traffic ... .if I sat in traffic long enough, it would start bumping up the idle as we were creeping along. So I either had to ride the brakes to keep the thing somewhat slow or sit on the clutch/ slip the clutch to get the thing to creep along.

More than once I just had to pull off to the side and let the car get itself sorted out and idle back down so I could attempt to creep at 10MPH. Trying to creep along with an engine that won't run below 2500RPM with a terribly geared transmission was just painful in heavy traffic.

On cold mornings that engine would run at 2500RPM, PERIOD, until it warmed up. I believe that's why I had the pilot bearing or throwout bearing fail on it. Impossible to drive cold mornings with an engine that won't slow down below 2500RPM and a cold blooded transmission. In the winter months I could drive most of the way to work without even touching the gas pedal! Until it warmed up , it would keep up with traffic without any throttle input from me .
Definitely something wrong with that car. It wasnt designed to maintain 2500 rpm even before warmed up.
Should have gradually drifted down as soon as the engine was started and definitely even 2500 rpms at cold idle is wrong. Service dept was bull carpping you if they claimed it was normal. Ford dealers are generally horrible for service
 
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