Annoying rev hang in my MT car

This helps...

...get rid of the CDV. I 'pioneered' CDV removal for the 5spd TSI MK7, as previously only GTI 6spds were doing it. I knew something felt "off" compared to my older stick shift vehicles. Found the CDV, removed it, and much better. Main reason for me, was that the CDV delayed the clutch release enough so that I could not start smoothly from a stop, if I was on an incline and the vehicle weighed down with camping/etc gear. I was forced to burn the clutch or stall. After CDV removal, problem solved.
 
I always had cars with MT and I really like my manual Golf. But there's one very annoying issue with electronic throttle body control which creates rev hang and causes terrible jerkiness during the upshift which is most noticeable going from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd gear.

I found couple of ways to deal with this.
1) Wait for about 2-3 seconds after the clutch pedal is depressed at which point the RPM goes finally down and than do the upshift.
2) Or by double clutching method.

If you have a car with MT do you experience the same issue?
Before the introduction of drive by wire the throttle body was triggered by cable and rev hang was never a problem.
Never complained about it on my MK4 Golf TDI or 08 Passat 2.0T, both manuals. It's just timing of shifting and engaging the clutch.
 
This helps...

...get rid of the CDV. I 'pioneered' CDV removal for the 5spd TSI MK7, as previously only GTI 6spds were doing it. I knew something felt "off" compared to my older stick shift vehicles. Found the CDV, removed it, and much better. Main reason for me, was that the CDV delayed the clutch release enough so that I could not start smoothly from a stop, if I was on an incline and the vehicle weighed down with camping/etc gear. I was forced to burn the clutch or stall. After CDV removal, problem solved.
Thanks for the info @surfstar
 
My mazda cx-5 seems to hang on the throttle on shifts from 2 to 3rd gear. The rest are fine or less noticeable. Not huge, but takes 1-2 seconds to drop rpm after letting off the throttle. my 94 golf had an air damper where the throttle cable attached to the throttle body that reduced the speed it would close.
 
My 2016 WRX was afflicted pretty badly with rev hang and just generally a bad factory tune and throttle response.

Ended up selling it, but I’ve read that the Cobb Accessport is the fix.
 
You can even get a tune that keeps everything the same but eliminates only the rev hang for emissions "feature"
I suggest you go that route. EPA nonsense.
 
I don't like rev hang... but they do it for catalyst durability. They are obliged i believe to meet emissions for 8yrs/130,000 km.
Perhaps they claim that but I have a couple of VWs Golf GL 1996 2L gas, and 1984 Rabbit GTI 1.8L gas which have no such rev hang and both have the original catalytic converters and they are still fully functioning today!
 
My 2014 Subaru Crosstrek 5MT was the same way with rev hang. Between that, the seemingly non-linear clutch and tall first gear soured me from ever buying a MT for a daily driver again. This is coming from someone who's mostly owned MTs for 30yrs.
 
My 2014 Subaru Crosstrek 5MT was the same way with rev hang. Between that, the seemingly non-linear clutch and tall first gear soured me from ever buying a MT for a daily driver again. This is coming from someone who's mostly owned MTs for 30yrs.
Out of 6 cars I've owned not one was AT. Had one time rental with AT and really disliked it. Yes, rev hang is annoying but that alone would not make me to switch to AT unless I lived in LA or some other big city where traffic is mostly stop and go.
 
Thanks a bunch. My buddy has a VW software so I'll ask him.
Welcome, I don't know the nitty gritty, but I believe it is a hexadecimal code that needs to be changed. If he has the VW software he'll probably know how to toggle that "feature" off permanently.
 
This started in the 80s, I believe. Back then it was modulated by vacuum, and you could defeat it by deleting a valve, plugging a vacuum line, that kind of thing. about the time they implemented that, we lost the “pumper carb” which had a 1/2 dia. piston move with the throttle, so every time the throttle was opening, raw wet gas was just squirted down the intake. Throttle response was immediate back then. BUT, ride behind one of those cars today and embrace progress.

my sons ‘18 civic rpm-hangs like crazy. I’ve never driven a manual like it. I find that I’ll either just shift early where it’s not such a big deal, extend the pause if I’m shifting at 3k+, or merely dump the clutch between shifts. In most cases for regular street driving, it’s got plenty of torque to shift sooner, thereby reducing the issue from throttle hang while still getting around town. It took me a while to find the sweet spot, but once I did it’s been just fine.
 
My 2014 Subaru Crosstrek 5MT was the same way with rev hang. Between that, the seemingly non-linear clutch and tall first gear soured me from ever buying a MT for a daily driver again. This is coming from someone who's mostly owned MTs for 30yrs.
That's a shame. Hard to fix the non linear clutch behaviour but a Cobb Tuning "tune" maybe could lessen the rev hang tendency. Not necessarily totally remove it - but make it less aggressive in its operation. For me a somewhat taller first gear would actually be my preference, well particularly in city driving.
 
As other stated the rev hang is a function of emmisions control, not the throttle by wire. The Contour svt had horrible rev hang and it used a cable actuated throttle body.

I agree the rev hang is maddening.
 
My Focus was bad enough that it almost drove me away from manual transmissions. That had a PZEV setup and that HAD TO keep the cat light off at all costs. In addition to having the worst geared transmission ever, it would idle at 10MPH in 1st gear, not great for traffic ... .if I sat in traffic long enough, it would start bumping up the idle as we were creeping along. So I either had to ride the brakes to keep the thing somewhat slow or sit on the clutch/ slip the clutch to get the thing to creep along.

More than once I just had to pull off to the side and let the car get itself sorted out and idle back down so I could attempt to creep at 10MPH. Trying to creep along with an engine that won't run below 2500RPM with a terribly geared transmission was just painful in heavy traffic.

On cold mornings that engine would run at 2500RPM, PERIOD, until it warmed up. I believe that's why I had the pilot bearing or throwout bearing fail on it. Impossible to drive cold mornings with an engine that won't slow down below 2500RPM and a cold blooded transmission. In the winter months I could drive most of the way to work without even touching the gas pedal! Until it warmed up , it would keep up with traffic without any throttle input from me .

With my Subaru, once it detects activity from the wheel speed sensors, it drops the idle down to normal so I can take off on a cold morning.
 
Back
Top