One tip that I always use for any spark plug replacement, including the Aerostar, is to use some vaccum hose slid over the top of the spark plug. Start the plug by turning on the vaccum hose and when you are sure it is not cross-threaded, pull off the vacuum hose. Then you can use the socket. It works great for the hard-to-access areas.
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- Thread starter demarpaint
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I've used the hose trick. I found that coating the inside of the spark plug socket with Di-electric grease saved me the hassle of fighting to get my socket off the plug once it was installed.
I actually finished with the plugs! The drivers side was very easy, and the plug closest to the firewall came out from the top. I didn't have to go under or through the wheel well. I'm going to change out the cap and rotor now, then have a cold one. Thanks for all the help!
I actually finished with the plugs! The drivers side was very easy, and the plug closest to the firewall came out from the top. I didn't have to go under or through the wheel well. I'm going to change out the cap and rotor now, then have a cold one. Thanks for all the help!
Update: The book called for .044 gap for the plugs, the ones I removed were close to .060. The cap and rotor for ~80,000 miles in service was in pretty good shape. I always specify copper vs the aluminum used in the cheaper parts. Two of the posts had some green oxidation on the copper. I had a cap and rotor so I tossed it on, the wires were in great shape so I reused them.
Thanks again to all those who replied. I can now safely say I can do that job in about 2.5 hours time, maybe a little less now that I have the access hole cut.
It runs like a champ!
Thanks again to all those who replied. I can now safely say I can do that job in about 2.5 hours time, maybe a little less now that I have the access hole cut.
It runs like a champ!
Originally Posted By: Kruse
This is one reason I don't go 100K on plugs, despite what the manufacturers claim. The plug can function okay, but they sometimes seize in the head.
That's why I took my plugs out shortly after I bought my car to apply anti-seize to the threads. I don't need any future problems!
This is one reason I don't go 100K on plugs, despite what the manufacturers claim. The plug can function okay, but they sometimes seize in the head.
That's why I took my plugs out shortly after I bought my car to apply anti-seize to the threads. I don't need any future problems!
JHZR2
Staff member
good point
I've use anti-seize a lot. When I replace shocks I make sure I use it, years later if they have to be changed again everything comes apart nice and easy.
demarpaint -- you said, yesterday, after the plugs were done, that you would have "a" cold one. that sounds like a 4 beer job to me.
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I've use anti-seize a lot. When I replace shocks I make sure I use it, years later if they have to be changed again everything comes apart nice and easy.
I use it on everything. Thermostat gaskets ..whatever. The last thing anyone needs is to clean off old gasket material when you don't have a bench grinder with a wire wheel. You can scrape to your hearts content and use crocus cloth all you please, but that's wasted toil when you can just pull the gasket off intact and go about your business.
The next owner will thank me for stuff that comes apart without pain. Most of us don't bother since "I won't have to deal with it for another 2-4 years". Well, I ended up seeing that job again in 2-4 years too many times.
I've use anti-seize a lot. When I replace shocks I make sure I use it, years later if they have to be changed again everything comes apart nice and easy.
I use it on everything. Thermostat gaskets ..whatever. The last thing anyone needs is to clean off old gasket material when you don't have a bench grinder with a wire wheel. You can scrape to your hearts content and use crocus cloth all you please, but that's wasted toil when you can just pull the gasket off intact and go about your business.
The next owner will thank me for stuff that comes apart without pain. Most of us don't bother since "I won't have to deal with it for another 2-4 years". Well, I ended up seeing that job again in 2-4 years too many times.
Kestas
Staff member
There were times where my dad would buy a new car and I would spend a couple evenings accessing as many bolts as I could at the undercarriage so I could put neversieze on them.
On average, a repair job in the rust belt takes two to three times longer than anywhere else because of rusted fasteners.
On average, a repair job in the rust belt takes two to three times longer than anywhere else because of rusted fasteners.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I've use anti-seize a lot. When I replace shocks I make sure I use it, years later if they have to be changed again everything comes apart nice and easy.
I use it on everything. Thermostat gaskets ..whatever. The last thing anyone needs is to clean off old gasket material when you don't have a bench grinder with a wire wheel. You can scrape to your hearts content and use crocus cloth all you please, but that's wasted toil when you can just pull the gasket off intact and go about your business.
The next owner will thank me for stuff that comes apart without pain. Most of us don't bother since "I won't have to deal with it for another 2-4 years". Well, I ended up seeing that job again in 2-4 years too many times.
Hey Gary we have something in common. I usually keep a vehicle until it dies, then I bring it back from the dead, when it dies a second or third time I might get rid of it. So most repairs that have to be done again in "2-4" years are being done by me. I want it to come apart too, that anti-seize is the ticket.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
I've use anti-seize a lot. When I replace shocks I make sure I use it, years later if they have to be changed again everything comes apart nice and easy.
I use it on everything. Thermostat gaskets ..whatever. The last thing anyone needs is to clean off old gasket material when you don't have a bench grinder with a wire wheel. You can scrape to your hearts content and use crocus cloth all you please, but that's wasted toil when you can just pull the gasket off intact and go about your business.
The next owner will thank me for stuff that comes apart without pain. Most of us don't bother since "I won't have to deal with it for another 2-4 years". Well, I ended up seeing that job again in 2-4 years too many times.
Hey Gary we have something in common. I usually keep a vehicle until it dies, then I bring it back from the dead, when it dies a second or third time I might get rid of it. So most repairs that have to be done again in "2-4" years are being done by me. I want it to come apart too, that anti-seize is the ticket.
Anything I think there is any chance I will ever take apart again goes back together with antiseize or Sil-Glyde.
My wife and I are both taller than average and she does not ever want to own any other mini-van other than an Aerostar.
We've ridden in all the ones that our friends have, so we know how short on space they are. About a month ago, she had to rent a Hyundai and she said it is better than most others.
We've ridden in all the ones that our friends have, so we know how short on space they are. About a month ago, she had to rent a Hyundai and she said it is better than most others.
Kestas - Flat rate manuals don't take that into account. Chicago winters make older cars a challenge to repair, to say the least.
One benefit is that our vocabulary is often increased.
One benefit is that our vocabulary is often increased.
Kestas
Staff member
That also explains why some shops flatly refuse to work on old rusty vehicles. I thought it was only because they expect to break more things "along the way" when making a repair.
Ditto on the vocabulary. It's really the only time I curse.
Ditto on the vocabulary. It's really the only time I curse.
Originally Posted By: yeti
demarpaint -- you said, yesterday, after the plugs were done, that you would have "a" cold one. that sounds like a 4 beer job to me.
If I had to drill a hole in the firewall to get at a spark plug, I'd be getting splat faced blasted that evening after I finished!
demarpaint -- you said, yesterday, after the plugs were done, that you would have "a" cold one. that sounds like a 4 beer job to me.
If I had to drill a hole in the firewall to get at a spark plug, I'd be getting splat faced blasted that evening after I finished!
Originally Posted By: Drew99GT
Originally Posted By: yeti
demarpaint -- you said, yesterday, after the plugs were done, that you would have "a" cold one. that sounds like a 4 beer job to me.
If I had to drill a hole in the firewall to get at a spark plug, I'd be getting splat faced blasted that evening after I finished!
I had 4 beers that evening. The good news is if this thing makes it to 250,000 miles the next tune up will be a snap.
Originally Posted By: yeti
demarpaint -- you said, yesterday, after the plugs were done, that you would have "a" cold one. that sounds like a 4 beer job to me.
If I had to drill a hole in the firewall to get at a spark plug, I'd be getting splat faced blasted that evening after I finished!
I had 4 beers that evening. The good news is if this thing makes it to 250,000 miles the next tune up will be a snap.
Originally Posted By: Jeff3126
I've got a '96 Aerostar with 111k miles on it with original plugs and wires. I need to get it in the shop at work where I have access to compressed air. Aside from this Aerostars are great vehicles.
They are great vehicles, mine owes me nothing! Shame they look like a Dust-Buster though.
I've got a '96 Aerostar with 111k miles on it with original plugs and wires. I need to get it in the shop at work where I have access to compressed air. Aside from this Aerostars are great vehicles.
They are great vehicles, mine owes me nothing! Shame they look like a Dust-Buster though.
Now THAT was funny!
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