Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
Hey now.... I'm from Mary-land too and Ocala..........
Everybody knows the passing lane in MD is the far right..............
How's the STD capital of Florida these days? The Villiages...............lol
Anecdotal Reports on High Quality of M1
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Everybody knows the passing lane in MD is the far right..............
How's the STD capital of Florida these days? The Villiages...............lol
Been using M1 for over 40 years when they were the only synthetic game in town and GTX was da bomb at $.49 a quart. I did similar cross country maxed out 12k lb trailer haul in 6.2L Silverado without drama. Dude, your camshaft broke because your camshaft broke. Would have even if you had Valvoline in it.
may my work; both our AC DELCO 5w30 DEXOS and 0w20 DEXOS oils are Mobil 1.
Maybe it is just me, or maybe I have some type of subliminal wish to throw my money away.....But, If I was hauling the way the OP is with his rig I would go directly to Red Line and stick to relatively quick OCI's with 60% PAO and 20-30% group V is the deciding factor for me. Amsoil and Motul would also be under consideration. I know, I know," I went 2 million miles using ST with 100k oci's with my 20K# trailer being pulled by my Subaru Justy @ 80mph continuously uphill in the snow etc and the engine still looked brand new when I opened her up at 2 millions miles just out of curiosity.
Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
Yes you will get reamed...lol
But his setup fits into the severe service category no doubt.
Only quality products need apply for sure.
No comment on Subaru Justy...
Yeah... I think we have good reason to indefinitely shy away from the less-expensive M1 oils!
Must admit... for the $15 loaded credit card, I did buy M1 EP 5W-30 at a local Walmart the other night. It will come out to be a $10 purchase.
I'll use it in my OPE.
BTW, I did hear through the grapevine that GM had so-called "soft" cams in certain V8 engines for a period of time. That could have been major contributor to our past major engine troubles. IMHO, I don't think past vanilla M1 helped though. And yes, this oil has been noisy in my past vehicle engines. Not again...
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That's dudes... as in more than one falling under said scenario.
And, located on an Internet board where only interested folks hang as well.
Funny how that is!
Not!
And please note: I have no favorite, gotta-have oil. I purchase what's usually inexpensive and works to my critical satisfaction.
To date, M1 has been and is noisy in my engines. And, I've lost one V8 with vanilla M1 in it. For me, that's enough validation NOT to use it going forward.
To each his own... or YMMV.
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Yeah... I think we have good reason to indefinitely shy away from the less-expensive M1 oils!
Must admit... for the $15 loaded credit card, I did buy M1 EP 5W-30 at a local Walmart the other night. It will come out to be a $10 purchase.
I'll use it in my OPE.
BTW, I did hear through the grapevine that GM had so-called "soft" cams in certain V8 engines for a period of time. That could have been major contributor to our past major engine troubles. IMHO, I don't think past vanilla M1 helped though. And yes, this oil has been noisy in my past vehicle engines. Not again...
I won't even use Mobil1 for my lawn equipment
Acknowledged!I won't even use Mobil1 for my lawn equipment
i tried sniffing my dipstick once but i just wasn't flexible enough.
The Decline of BITOG has been evident for some years; however, this thread is certainly the death rattle.
Sometimes you just have to laugh at the notion that a particular brand ruined an engine or caused some other spectacular action. The thing is that if you read this board long enough the supposed failures are spread over several brand names, if one were to heed each and every one of the goofy warnings there isn't much left that you'd be safe using in your vehicle.
Beyond that, on these claims there is a serious lack of understanding what is causation and proof of effect. None of these individuals knows it was the oil that caused the failure or it was instead some mechanical defect that was coincidental to using a particular brand. This kind of misunderstanding is absolutely rampant on this board where people observe some effect and draw wholly unsubstantiated conclusions based on an observation.
Beyond that, on these claims there is a serious lack of understanding what is causation and proof of effect. None of these individuals knows it was the oil that caused the failure or it was instead some mechanical defect that was coincidental to using a particular brand. This kind of misunderstanding is absolutely rampant on this board where people observe some effect and draw wholly unsubstantiated conclusions based on an observation.
Oil doesn't kill engines, people do.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Yep, like the discussion that's been ongoing for years on here with both GM LSx engines and FCA HEMI's losing lifters (taking the cam with them) on every oil under the sun, but if it happens on your watch, it's the oil's fault! Yes, that's definitely it, it's an identified materials issue with no relation to oil selection.
I'll break it down thusly:
- If it happens on Redline, it's a junk engine, only reason it went as long as it did was because of how awesome Redline is!
- If it happens on the SRT 0w-40, it's a junk engine/typical FCA quality
- If it happens on Pennzoil Platinum/Ultra Plantinum/Ultra, it's a stupid idea, GM should never have done AFM!
- If it happens on Castrol, well, the titanium certainly helped it hold up as long as it did, stupid garbage design
- If it happens on Valvoline, well, nothing could have saved it.
However, if it happens on Mobil:
"Should never have used that nasty garbage, made my engine sound like it was being shelled by Schwerer Gustav! I could hear each lifter SCREAM IN PAIN! The rings scraped like nails on a chalkboard down the walls, it was like a symphony of paint cans filled with gravel strapped to a fleet of industrial paint shakers! No wonder I lost a lifter/cam, with that garbage in there I'm surprised it held up as long as it did!".
I'm always amazed at how people will willfully toss aside their objectivity because it subconsciously aligns with the narrative of the hive mind, something which tends to form on messageboards. Lore brought forth by Joe Average grows legs and is picked-up by Jim Average who adds his two cents and this grows and mutates until a large collective is formed. Hyperbole and anecdote become shocking fact and soon even those who try and stay neutral are second-guessing themselves. This has been pervasive since before I had this username and it's wild to watch it continue here, close to two decades later.
Tell us how we killed our V8 engines. Please do. Tell us how proper maintenance through 3 to 4,000 mile OCI's and constant level checks killed my past GM L59 engine. Tell me how 110-mile commuter RT each day ruined said V8. Please do.
How about you tell us how you conclusively determined that a particular brand of oil caused the damage rather than a material or design defect? Also explain how you know a different brand would have prevented the failure.
I'll repeat. After several 3 to 4000-miles OCI's of vanilla M1 5W-30, accompanied by nominal Alaska summer, 60 to 70-degree day commuter highway driving (110-mile RT's between Anchorage and Palmer, Alaska), my L59 V8 was lost. For this engineer and technical systems manager, if I can remove certain important operating factors that MAY have led to an engine's premature demise, I will do so. It's completely understandable why I will not continue to use said product in my GM V8 engines going forward.
I'm sorry if you or others do not like this situation, and that others have had the same problem as noted here -- an engine destroyed with nilla M1 5W-30 in the sump. Blather all you want. It is what it is.
Thankfully, my second L59 V8 is behaving nicely, my GM half-ton truck now has nearly 200,000 hard Alaskan miles on it (roughly 65,000-miles on the new engine). It's a kept or maintained vehicle with little rust (no salt used here). My family enjoys this well-behaved and maintained 4WD pickup truck. I expect another 100,000 miles from her.
My last GM product, a 1993 Olds Bravada with the W-code 4.3L, ran 285,000 hard Alaskan miles before I sold it to a teenager to destroy. Let's see... that SUV was NEVER garaged either. It started every winter morning totaling a cumulative 10-years in the cold (lived on Valvoline Durablend most of its life). That wonderful Bravada also made 7 each 3,500-mile trips up and down the Alaska-Canada Highway (the Al-Can), between the Lower-48 states and Anchorage. Two of those 7 trips were accomplished in the dead of winter, with temps of -20 to -35 degs F... driven through for hundreds of miles along the way (really cold wx between Whitehorse (Yukon Territory) and the Glennallen, Alaska areas).
Let's see your Jeep/RAM products last that long.
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That’s as conclusive as saying your radiator leaked during the same time and the oil was the cause.
I didn't conclude anything. I removed potentially related factors leading to an engine's demise.
One of those factors was nilla M1 5W-30.
It won't be used in the current Gen III 5.3L engine.
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I try to be subjective when possible and also try to remember my inherent bias. I am using M1 ESP 5W30 in many of my rigs right now. I think it is a quality oil and a bargain compared to what have been my other choices over the years. That being said. I thought the 3.2L Mercedes V6 I used to own was ticky sounding, if that's an adjective, using the M1 factory fill 0W40 and quiet using Red Line. I had an inherent preference for Valvoline for many years because my father always used it on everything. I have a bias against Castrol because of purposeful deceptive marketing they have made the oil choice of consumers confusing by their marketing of group III as synthetic when it should be distinguished differently and should be classified differently, same as GTL. I would just prefer cleaner labeling practices and more transparency in descriptions. Never gonna happen.......
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