Amsoil SSO 0-30w, 17k miles, 07 Toyota FJ, 4.0 L

[jetman]

I'm new to this forum, synthetic engine oil, UOA, and extended OCI. My whole life I've use Dinosaur oil at 3k mile OCI. I a DIYer whenever possible. I'm a retired pilot so I've known of UOA for aircraft, but didn't realize it was so inexpensive. I own 2 SUVs, a piston powered airplane, 2 diesel pusher motor homes, and a 2 stroke outboard. I am trying to decrease the time I spend doing routine oil/filter changes. So far, I've only switched our 2 SUV over to Amsoil SSO 0-30w and I'm trying to determine the correct xOCI for ea.

Here is the info on our 07 Toyota 2wd FJ Cruiser w/4.0L. We bought it used in early 09 w/22k miles. We live in the country so it doesn't see much stop n go driving, its mostly easy hwy miles. It has a K&N air filter element. I cleaned and re-oiled the K&N air filter element at 24k miles, 40k miles, 50K miles, 54k miles. I changed the engine oil every 3k miles w/Val 20-50w racing. Then in 12/09 at 36k miles I decided to switch to Amsoil SSO 0-30w and do 25k mile xOCI.

At 36k miles, per my Amsoil dealers instruction, I ran a pint of Amsoil engine flush thru the warmed up engine for 20 min, then drained, and installed 5 qts of SSO and a stock replacement Amsoil EaO57 oil filter. 6 mths and 9k miles later I changed the oil filter w/another EaO57. The engine hadn't used any oil, so no makeup oil was added. Then 5 more mths and 8k more miles(17K total on oil), I went to change the oil filter again, and my dealer informed me that the EaO57 filter had been discontinued. So I got on the internet and found a FJ Cruiser forum and this forum. I discovered that a large Ford V8 oil filter(PH8) would fit my Toyota. Bigger is better, so I installed a M1-301. I added 1 qt of oil, not because the engine had used any, but because of the larger filter size. A few days and 200 miles later I decided to pull a sample an send it to Oil Analyzers Inc. Here are the results:

WEAR METALS-PPM
Iron 28
Chromium 0
Copper 1
Tin 0
Lead 0
Chrom 1
Nickel 0
Alum 5
Tin 0
Silver 0
Cadmium 0
Vanadium 0
CONTAMINANT METALS-PPM
Silicon 56
Sodium 168
Potassium 4
MULTI SOURCE METALS
Magne 0
Titan 0
Molybdenum 2
Antim 0
Mang 0
Lith 0
Boron 6
ADDITIVE METALS-PPM
Magnes 14
Calcium 3394
Barium 0
Phosph 568
Zinc 691

V100C 10.9
TAN 3.27
I-R Oxidation 58
I-R Nitra 39
TBN 2.66
Fuel Soot Vol Water
LAB COMMENTS: TBN is significantly low; Infared results indicated OXIDATION is significantly HIGH; Silicon/dirt are at a Moderate level; Sodium is at a Moderate level.

I wasn't pleased with the UOA results, so a few days ago I installed a TOPDOG V oil filter bypass system (comes w/Amsoil EaBP90 filter), changed the oil w/7 qts of Amsoil SSO 0-30w, and installed a new Amsoil EaO15 in the full flow filter position. The stock vehicle requires 5 1/2 qts. Now, w/2 large filters, it requires 7 qts to bring it up to the full mark on the dipstick. I also replaced the K&N air filter element with an Amsoil EAA238

I plan on doing another UOA in about 6 mths and 10k miles.

What are your thoughts?

Don

 

[Slippery_Pete]

TBN isn't that low imo.
Silicon is high, which could contribute to Fe being a bit up.
What air filter is on this?

 

[Errtt]

Silicon may go down with the change away from the K&N.

 

[MrMeeks]

Was the oil excessively thick? With the high level of oxidation ,I thought oil thickening could be present.I usually drain any oil when it thickens out of grade.

 

[Steve S]

The Amsoil did good. If this is the first run of the oil do another run with it . Get a real airfilter K@N filters isn't the type of filter to run . IMO sell half the vehicles then you would spend half the time changing oil. I sound. just like my dad.

 

[Joseph_S37]

To me at least, It doesn't look bad at all for 17k miles.

I also agree with errtt, silicon will most likely go down with removal of k&n air filter, plus amsoil air filters are very good at trapping dirt. Might contribute in a positive way to more than just silicon.

Also, bypass filtration added, your engine couldnt ask for more!

IMO maybe 20k with new setup would be a reasonable amount

 

[H25B]

SlipperyPete & Errtt are on to something with the air filter IMHO. Unless you make servicing your K&N air filter your obsession they tend to let a little more through than a stock filter. 1GR-FE's seem to puke iron compared with other similar design engines. Your Fe seems a little bit high even for this engine but not ridiculous.

 

[spasm3]

I agree with the above posters, not bad for 17k. A k&n filter is not a good air filter for long oci's. I would use a K&n for short 5 k intevals. For longer oci's you need a better air filter. The best oil filter in the world only gets whats already in the engine through the air filter.

 

[hate2work]

Good move on replacing the K&N. It will be interesting to see how the bypass cleans things up, and if the SSO keeps it's TBN.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Amsoil EAA air filter is very good, much better than K&N. The second run of Amsoil SSO will be better than the first run, especially the use of engine flush before the first run left some debris in the engine. I just leave the two large oil filters on for the whole OCI of 15-20k miles and do another UOA when it's time to change oil and filter.

 

[chubbs1]

This is a very good UOA, you changed the most important part...the air filter, You should see better results, just remember dirt/dust is what makes a filter more efficient so let it be. I know you have an AMSOIL filter in there now but I think you messed around with the air filter too much ie. opening the housing, taking it out, this will cause dust(silicon) to get into the engine. So leave the air filter be and follow the recommended intervals. I would not worry about the oxidation true synthetics Grp. IV-V have different rules so to speak. This oil is working great, just got to watch the silicon. Thank you and welcome!

 

[edhackett]

Where did all that sodium come from? SSO does not use Na as an additive. Coolant? Flush?

Also TAN > TBN, which is often a condemnation point for oils.

Not every vehicle is suited for 25K intervals. Track down the source of the sodium. Could be a bad head gasket.

Ed

 

[jetman]

Thanks All for your thoughts.

Sodium? I guess it was in the flush? I've never had to add a single drop of antifreeze. Or maybe it was in the Valvoline 20-50w racing I used before switching to the SSO?

I'll soon post the UOA results on my wifes GMC Arcadia.

Don

 

[badtlc]

If you must use a lifetime type filter, please go with an AEM Dryflow or AFE Pro Dry. The K&N is just an all around terrible filter. Either one of the other two should get your Si levels down to around 10-15 and probably help reduce the Iron numbers.

Your numbers are very good overall but the Si is definitely NOT good.

 

[Artem]

You made all the right moves adding the bypass filter and new Amsoil air filter on top of the SSO. Its now ready for extended drains.

 

[webfors]

Originally Posted By: jetman
Thanks All for your thoughts.

Sodium? I guess it was in the flush? I've never had to add a single drop of antifreeze. Or maybe it was in the Valvoline 20-50w racing I used before switching to the SSO?

I'll soon post the UOA results on my wifes GMC Arcadia.

Don


It's from the Valvoline.

Good job, nice report. With new air filter, second run of SSO and bypass you'll be able to go 20k no problems with that setup.

 

[edhackett]

Not all the Na is from the Valvoline, which runs ~350 ppm. He has 168 ppm, which would mean half of his oil was Valvoline. It could be from the flush. Not having to add coolant is a good sign.

Don, I'd sample the current change a bit earlier, maybe 12K, to see how things are going.

Ed