Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30, 17135 mi., 2005 Scion xA

[cjv]

Engine type: 1.5L (1NZFE) 4-cyl
Miles on car: 48133
First 15K on standard Toyota oil (they did the oil changes)
Then, converted to Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30, which I've been running ever since. This is my second change. I went about 12K on the first batch, but did not get it analyzed.
Months in service: 12
Filtration: Amsoil maximum efficiency filters (don't remember the exact name). No bypass system. Filter was changed with the oil in all oil changes, regardless of interval.
Driving conditions: Hard highway miles. I average 70 to 80 mph on a 70 mile round trip each work day.
Condition of car: Great. No mechanical issues whatsoever.
Approximately 0.5 qt of make up oil added.

Analysis Follows (all in ppm, unless otherwise noted):
Aluminum 6 (3)
Chromium 1
Iron 35 (7)
Copper 9 (2)
Lead 7 (1)
Tin 3
Molybdenum 3
Nickel 2
Manganese 1
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 4
Boron 10
Silicon 35
Sodium 15
Calcium 2779
Magnesium 188
Phosphorus 723
Zinc 864
Barium 0

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF OIL SAMPLE:
SUS Viscosity @ 210 deg F = 65.2
cSt Viscosity @ 100 deg C = 11.67
Flashpoint in deg F = 385
Fuel % = Antifreeze % = 0
Water % = 0
Insolubles % = 0.3
TBN = 1.3
TAN-- no data
ISO Code-- no data

Recommendations from lab:
According to the lab I used, wear was well above average for my Scion. The lab provided averages for all of the various elements above for my motor, based upon an oil run of ~7K. For the elements they flagged as indicative of engine wear, the averages are listed in parenthesis next to the measured value for my sample.

They think 17,135 is too long an interval. They say the values show piston scuffing and excess bearing wear. The TBN was also low at 1.3, indicating that little active additive remained in the oil at the time of the change. Additionally, I need a new air filter.

I have changed the air filter and the oil and oil filter were changed when this sample was collected, so I'm on brand new oil now.

Any comments? Should I change this oil more frequently? Would a 6 month filter change with a bit of make up oil make these numbers better? Are these numbers bad?

 

[Winston]

Well, You can compare that analysis to my Toyota where I used Motorcraft oil. Much lower wear numbers, but then again you have gone a long interval. For their typical numbers in parantheses, what is tht OCI? You should ratio your wear numbers based on miles to get a good comparison. Comparing 17k OCI numbers next to 5k OCI numbers is not relevant.

The number most worrisome is the lead number at 7.

 

[JoeFromPA]

My assessment (non-expert) is that this oil seems to have been in too long....by about 1000 miles.

But I'm a little suspicious of castigating the oil. The oil properties seem to be fine, though TBN is definitely indicating it's near the end of it's life. Viscosity, Flashpoint, etc. all seem fine.

Iron, Copper, and Lead were all high. Could it be that the extra dirt in combustion from the air filter was wearing on the engine?

Also, my reading of this is not that bad. Your iron and copper were about 40% higher than they should be....so figure your engine wore as if it had an extra 3-5k on it than it does. Lead seems the only thing that's quite elevated compared to normal....but how much so and it's long-term ramifications are beyond me

Joe

 

[LargeCarManX2]

I would do the 15K and change the Eao full-flow. This way Amsoil will cover you under their warranty.

I would try the Amsoil lab, you will get more information including Oxid and Nit which will show the condition of the oil better.

Otherwise, 15K and filter, 15K and filter, you get my point...great report otherwise. Stayed in the 30wt range.

 

[ericthepig]

Agree with LargeCar - I would say 15 to 16k OCI w/ Ea Oil filter and OEM air filter. Also, you were using Series 2000. Amsoil SSO should be your next purchase if you're going for these OCIs (imo). A 15-16k OCI should save you from having to replenish. If you want to replenish, then just drain the EaO as best you can and re-attach (an EaO can handle this full OCI w/ ease). Personally I wouldn't worry about the iron reading unless it seriously spikes up (which it shouldn't unless you have an antifreeze leak or something in the future).

 

[FZ1]

Well,you need to run it less miles. Maybe 12k oil and filter change. .02.

 

[simple_gifts]

I think 12K too.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post835392

Here is my UOA with TSO and 1NZFE for comparison.

I don't know squat about analysis, but I'm thinking dirt is getting in there.

 

[JohnBrowning]

The oil did fine dirt is the problem. Use an OEM Toyota air filter unless the after market one is almost identical in the fiber make up of the filtering media. I would repeat but as the other poster comented stick to 15,000 mile OCI and EAO oil filter if that is in fact what Amsoil recomends so you can take advantage of their warranty. I have never heard of Amsoil not standing behind their products ever! You have to keep that dirt out of the engine so check that duct work and vacum lines etc for any signs of a leak or split. I once found a small puncture about the size of 16p nail head from a rodent in a hard plastic duct. The engine was running lean and air was being sucked from some place past the mass air flow sensor. When I fixed the problem all was right includeing silicon and wear and the lean condition etc........If it was just a worn out airfilter then that is great since that is easy fix.

Do you realise that their are engines that can not turn in numbers like that in a 3000-7500 mile OCI let alone a 12 month 17,135 mile OCI??????

 

[Bulli]

change the air filter and do 12 k next time and see how that goes.

 

[Pablo]

Again a full year, 17K miles.

Na seems high. Si a bit elevated - could be dirt/salt - but solids are quite low. Fuel may be a bit high as indicated by the 385°F flash.

70-80 mph hard miles in a xA. 0.5qt make up.

I would not say your metals are worrisome high. Pb at 7? Maybe, but Pb at 3 in 8K miles - would that get attention?

I would take the advice on the filtration/leaks and try the SSO this go around.

 

[Kitto]

Looks like the oil thicken a little bit...

 

[buster]

How is Pb high at 7?

Quote:
Wear Metals (D5185):
Iron Max = 200ppm (engine dependent)
Copper Max = 30ppm above baseline (engine dependent)
Lead Max = 40ppm (engine dependent)

There are of course many other specific issues in regard to individual engine families and their permissible wear metal rates

 

[cjv]

Thanks to all for your advice and suggestions!

My sense from the comments is the following:

1) change the oil at around 12 to 15K and retest.
2) change the air filter and check for leaks in the system. Although, I would think that I'd get a check engine light for a leak like this, but maybe not.
3) Mixed opinion on the interpretation of the metal numbers, but nothing catastrophic is happening in the engine. As I said, I have not had a single problem to date except a warranty repair--a silent recall having to do with the variable valve pulley giving an intermittent check engine light. According to Toyota, it doesn't impact driveability of the car, but they fixed it anyway.

 

[REDDOG]

I strongly agree with simple gifts and John Browning-find the source of dirt ingestion and you'll be golden. This oil was not over-run, dirt is the culprit. Check duct work, air filter, etc.

 

[dcoyne78]

I would pull a sample through the dipstick at 10k and get it analyzed. It doesn't seem to me that 70-80 on the highway is very hard mileage, this should be the easiest kind of mileage for an oil to handle, the car gets up to operating temperature every day and just because someone drives 75 on the highway (which is pretty much traffic flow on most highways) doesn't mean they are flogging their engine to get it up to speed. Considering that simplegifts had 5 ppm Fe at 11k, this oil may have gone downhill by quite a bit in the last 6k of the 17k oci.