Amsoil Oil Filters.. What issues ??

I use them. My Nissan truck uses the EA15k13 which is identical to the Fram Endurance FE7317. I pay $11.40 for the Amsoil filter and WalMart charges $12.97 for the Fram.

I also order my Mann filter for my BMW from Amsoil. I pay $6.60 for the Mann HU925/4X and oddly the ones that ship from Amsoil are made in Germany as opposed to the ones sold locally or bought from RockAuto which are made in Mexico. Not sure why that is but when I get free shipping from Amsoil it offsets the $1.70 difference in price.

I had one warranty claim on a Amsoil filter and Pablo helped me with the refund. This is how I know my particular filter (EA15K13) is made by Fram at their Greenville, Ohio facility.

So yes, I use Amsoil filters and oils.
 
Their headquarters are in Superior, Wisconsin. I doubt they're sweating too much about this, or anything, for several more months.
I think it may be a brand image thing for Amsoil. Using more of "American" made filters vs the the competition. Otherwise, perhaps they've started Plan B to paint their filters red from another source if the ship sinks.
 
Just cut open a brand new Filter EAO46 ( Made in Mexico ??) ... Black debri on filter element is from cutting disc when cutting open the case..

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Looks to be a pretty smooth leaf spring stamping ... guess they have better machines and operators in Mexico. Should do a light test to see how it's really sealing on the end cap. The louvers aren't real good but probably adequate, a few look to be pretty small slits. Maybe Champ Labs went to Mexico for some Amsoil filters to try and get better manufacturing quality. Think they do make some of the motorcycle filters in Mexico already.
 
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As noted multiple times, the Champ Labs made Amsoil filters subject to the same issues with the bypass piece seal areas, i,e., poor stampings resulting in flashlight test failures, oil bypass. The Hecho en Mexico does 'look' much better than I've seen, but imo only flashlight testing can prove whether seal area good or not.

On a related note, recently bought a Champ Labs US made (2025) Fram Drive FD6607 on AAP closeout ($1.12) specifically to flashlight test. Seen much worse rippling, but there was some. It failed, but one thing I noticed that I've seen before, the four bypass piece "holder" protrusions on bypass piece completely dark in those areas. Have pics and mulled posting but figured most folks have seen the failures and made up their own minds whether means enough to cease use. Perhaps a bit different when paying ~$1.25 as opposed to ~$13 for the Endurance or Amsoil price.
 
flashlight testing can prove whether seal area good or not.
I tried that ...and....you can see light between the 2 surfaces..... so i would say even this sample failed!
Until yesterday i have never bothered to look into the mechanics of an oil filter .
I am actually stunned that such a poor sealing mechanism is used!! Why go to all the trouble to rate a filters filtration "cartridge" in the realms of micron's" , when the other end is subject to 2 metal non uniform sealing surfaces !!!

How do reputable filters seal this area ??
 
I am heading out on a trip today and plan on picking up some of the NEW Penrite oil filters available here ( Equivalent to the Amsoil EAO42) . Will pick up a couple of extra to "Dissect" .....Will post pics here in direct comparison to the "Amsoil filter .

VERY curious to see the internal construction..
 
How do reputable filters seal this area ??
This can be an issue primary with oil filters that use a leaf spring on a metal end cap. A few years back leaf springs were stamped smooth (no ruffles) and flat (not having any warpage), but seems the stamping quality has taken a big nose dive. The only way there's going to be any decent sealing for a metal-on-metal interface is if both surfaces are completely flat and the surfaces are smooth. Warped surfaces with a mirror finish still won't seal, they both need to be flat and smooth. The OG Fram Ultra had a fiber sealing gasket on the end cap, but that went away with First Brands cost cutting moves.

The Penrite filters probably have the bypass valve built into the end cap, and use a coil spring to hold the internal parts tight together, so no possible ruffled/warped leaf spring to leak. Very rare for a built-in bypass valve to leak.
 
The Penrite filters probably have the bypass valve built into the end cap, and use a coil spring to hold the internal parts tight together, so no posdible ruffled/ warped leaf spring to leak. Very rare for a built-in bypass valve to leak.
This sounds like a much much more logical , solution ... (y)(y)
 
Just took a screen grab of a Penrite Filter Vid.... Still looks like some type of "leaf Spring" :(

Looks like the 2 mating surfaces are tapered.....so if the finish ,fit is good it may be acceptable.... cant wait to dissect one..

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Just took a screen grab of a Penrite Filter Vid.... Still looks like some type of "leaf Spring" :(

Looks like the 2 mating surfaces are tapered.....so if the finish ,fit is good it may be acceptable.... cant wait to dissect one..

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Looks like the bypass valve is built into the end cap - the big black "dot" in the center of the end cap. The leaf spring design in this case is to just be a spring and doesn't do any sealing of the center tube on the end cap. Some Purolator's with the flat spiral looking bypass spring use a similar design.
 
..............How do reputable filters seal this area ??
Filters with endcap integral bypass, not susceptible to the bypass piece seal issue seen with the Champ Labs made filters. Now, as seen recently this sub-forum there can be a manufacturing error which "could" allow the bypass to remain open, but in my observation those are rare occurrences.

OG Wix/Napa Gold had metal to metal seal with their base end bypass piece. However the milling of the two mating surfaces was quite fine and well done. Add in the significant spring tension from their true coil compression spring, and that seal area was tight.

Otoh, a flat spring provides minimal spring tension, just enough to hold the element firmly in place. This is why on large diesel filters you will find coil compression springs, not a flat/leaf type. So with flat spring bypass piece the stamping must be really good and/or some type of gasket material used. The OG XG Ultra used a gasket material on the endcap seal area, which gave some leeway for any possible irregularities on the bypass piece seal area.

The Penright filter pic you posted, if accurate, looks to be the first type filter I referenced. Endcap integral bypass type.

Thanks for the follow up comment on flashlight test results of pictured Amsoil filter. (y)
 
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The OG Ultra leaf spring stamping was very smooth and flat, even though there was a fiber sealing gasket between it and the end cap. Plus the fit of the leaf spring was tight on the ID of the fiber gasket built into the end cap (another sealing area), so it essentially had a double sealing mechanism. Whoever is in charge of making leaf springs now for Fram and Champion Labs built filters is missing the boat and making junk.

Here's a photo of an OG Ultra leaf spring and the fiber sealing gasket built into the end cap. The sealing impression from the leaf spring can be seen in the fiber gasket. This is how a leaf spring should be sealed if you're going for maximum efficiency, which the OG Ultra was going for. Too bad it's no longer made to this standard anymore.

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