I want to add my Amsoil BMK11 filter to my 2006 Jeep and I would like to know if I can use a sandwich adapter for both inputs for the oil?If this can't be done then the BMK13 kit would do.Thanks Joe
Amsoil-BMK11/Sandwich adapter
- Thread starter Dually
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You want to run a sandwich adapter and a bypass? I would perfer taking oil off a sender and returning it to the pand or valve cover. Then you can leave the full flow filter where it is. Less plumbing, easyer installation, the bypass will work better and less chance for problems.
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He'll still be leaving the full flow where it is when using a sandwich.
He could probably rig one of the older (cheaper) mounts to a Permacool and be happy. 4.0 engines don't typically use too high volume pumps
Once you get into the newer/fancier mounts ..then you require Amsoil proprietory hadware (not really -but when you find the proper fittings and stuff ..you might as well have - they calculated competitive costs very well).
Then all he needs is a Permacool sandwich ..4 hose barbs ..some transmission cooler line from NAPA and two bushing reducers and some clamps.
BP-80a is the number of the cheaper Amsoil mount.
Then all he needs is a Permacool sandwich ..4 hose barbs ..some transmission cooler line from NAPA and two bushing reducers and some clamps.
BP-80a is the number of the cheaper Amsoil mount.
To answer your question yes you can use a sandwich adapter with the BMK 11. It should work just fine.
What I want to do is leave the full-flow where it is but add a sandwich adapter to the full flow and use in/out connections for the bypass filter that would be mounted somewhere on the Jeep.My jeep has the Hemi engine.I believe that the sandwich adapter would be used for the oil pressure and the other for the return oil.
The only thing I need to do is find out which adapter to get.Thanks Joe
The only thing I need to do is find out which adapter to get.Thanks Joe
If you use the sandwich adapter with a bypass filter and return oil to the sandwich return line use your hand to tell you if the filter is doing anything. You might find that it does not pass oil the whole time the engine is running. You might have to wait until the full flow filter develops some back pressure. This type of system can make the installation a little bit easier but I think I would rather return the oil to a non-pressure area. Also, some of these adapters are cheap pieces of junk and if they cause a leak you could have a very big problem. The oil pump can empty the oil pan pretty quickly. If you do an installation with the adapter, can you report back on how it performs?
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LarryL ..no, if he uses a Permacool sandwich he will always have 2PSID across the bypass filter. If he hooks it to a dual mount with one full flow and one bypass he'll have to wait for decent flow through the bypass since the ff filter is so much easier to pass through.
He can use a sandwich and benefit from the bypass right from the get go.
He can use a sandwich and benefit from the bypass right from the get go.
I looked at the picture of the sandwich adapter and it looks like you can return the oil there from the bypass (looks like 2 oil ports). However, I think you can, if you wish, route the line to the oil fill cap, valve cover, or to the upper part of the oil pan via a punched and self tapping insert arrangement. Is this correct?
If so you would have to plug the one port on the sandwich and then route the oil return from the bypass to the other spot.
If so you would have to plug the one port on the sandwich and then route the oil return from the bypass to the other spot.
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You don't need a sandwich to do that. You can tap into the oil pressure sender port (tee) and then do your thing. The sandwich has the advantage of allowing you to get the job done without doing any of that.
If you want a "pressure port only" sandwich, wefilterit.com has them for the Frantz type bypass filters. The work for anything, naturally. If you happen to have a Permacool, and wish to use it in this capacity, then you just drill a few holes in it ..and plug one of the outlet ports and plumb your bypass to the other ...then run it to the hole in the pan or the oil cap or whatever.
The Permacool from J.C. Whitney may be a buck or two cheap due to their variable rate for $$ shipped. They're about $5 more then Summit or Jeg's ..but may be less in S&H then those two are in their 'flat rate handling fee".
If you want a "pressure port only" sandwich, wefilterit.com has them for the Frantz type bypass filters. The work for anything, naturally. If you happen to have a Permacool, and wish to use it in this capacity, then you just drill a few holes in it ..and plug one of the outlet ports and plumb your bypass to the other ...then run it to the hole in the pan or the oil cap or whatever.
The Permacool from J.C. Whitney may be a buck or two cheap due to their variable rate for $$ shipped. They're about $5 more then Summit or Jeg's ..but may be less in S&H then those two are in their 'flat rate handling fee".
Thanks, Gary! J.C. Whitney is just down the road (so to speak) from SW Michigan for shipping. I went to Nebraska last June on vacation and the company was right off I-80.. either in Illinois or Iowa. Doesn't the Perma Cool have the 2 ports for oil already? Looked like in the pic. Just plug the return line if you don't want to return to there.
The oil pressure sending unit, I thought would be the first and best location for a oil suppy line for bypass or other filtration. Simply because it does have an already established amount of pressure available, right? Isn't the oil pressure sending unit at what ever is reading on the oil pressure gauge on the instrument panel on my '96 Park Avenue (or anyone elses instrument panel as well)?
I've wondered if you have to wait for the full flow filter to start getting plugged a bit before the bypass starts working efficiently? I know on my old "dual remote" unit from Amsoil (made by Perma-Cool) it has a steel ball and spring and acts like a sort of pressure valve for the oil going to full flow and bypass.
I'll attach pic. Dually might be interested in what I'm talking about.
The oil pressure sending unit, I thought would be the first and best location for a oil suppy line for bypass or other filtration. Simply because it does have an already established amount of pressure available, right? Isn't the oil pressure sending unit at what ever is reading on the oil pressure gauge on the instrument panel on my '96 Park Avenue (or anyone elses instrument panel as well)?
I've wondered if you have to wait for the full flow filter to start getting plugged a bit before the bypass starts working efficiently? I know on my old "dual remote" unit from Amsoil (made by Perma-Cool) it has a steel ball and spring and acts like a sort of pressure valve for the oil going to full flow and bypass.
I'll attach pic. Dually might be interested in what I'm talking about.
I just visited wefilterit.com and th adapters mentioned look just like the ones from oilguard.com.I assume that the full flow oil filter goes on after the adapter and since there is only one port that must be the pressure port.If correct then all I need is to find a return port from the bypass filter to my Hemi engine.What size adapter would I need?My oil filter has 3/4-16 threads.Thanks Joe
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I think that you need the 401 with the "B" gasket. They have you input the model make year into the order form
Thanks for the info, Gary. What I am interested in the the blue sandwich affair. What I have I really can't use for lack of space. So what I want to do is just get around having to draw oil for a bypass filter from the T oil pressure sending unit, as it's a POA to get at and remove/modify. The sandwich looked cool. But, like I was saying, if I take the oil return from the bypass system on the OilGuard (just my preference of filters) to either the pan or the oil fill cap, then all one needs is one line from the sandwich, the one 'feeding' the oil. The return line input could just be plugged. I hope I'm making sense!! LOL
Vern
Vern
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Yes, you're making perfect sense. The blue thingy is avaiable on ebay
This is cheaper then the wefilterit offering. You're getting 1/8 NPT ports ..which can surely be converted to anything that you want. Here's aeroquip to go to AN/JIC Again, I think your Amsoil rep can hook you up on plumbing. The 1/8" tap at the blue sandwich is no different then tapping into the sender unit port
This is cheaper then the wefilterit offering. You're getting 1/8 NPT ports ..which can surely be converted to anything that you want. Here's aeroquip to go to AN/JIC Again, I think your Amsoil rep can hook you up on plumbing. The 1/8" tap at the blue sandwich is no different then tapping into the sender unit port
Gary, I also found an interesting PDF file on Fram's filter site at http://www.fram.com/pdf/Fram_HP_Product_Specs.pdf And they show some filters, for racing, High Performance down to 18 microns and some adapter plates for oil mounting, such as this one:
This is one of several. I believe that "O" ring might even fit on my apparatus in the the above picture.. who knows, might even be made by the same people!
This is one of several. I believe that "O" ring might even fit on my apparatus in the the above picture.. who knows, might even be made by the same people!
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If we're talking about the sandwich ..sure. What you don't need is the sandwich to be functional. There's no need to have 2PSID produced by moving the main oil flow through ONLY the poppet valve. It will work okay ..but you don't need it to drive the bypass filters if your returning to some zero pressure point.
All you need is something like this:
..that's used for tapping in oil temp and oil pressure senders. Then run it to whatever you're running in bypass filtration and then returning that to the drop off location of choice (pan, valve cover, oil cap).
Since you've already got the dual remote mount (Permacool) and IF you used a sandwich(a Permacool), you would be just as well off getting adapters to alter it to fit the Amsoil bypass filters ..and just return it to the sandwich.
If you want to use your setup (Permacool) with a sandich and use a combination of full flow and bypass filtration (you'll still have to get one threaded adapter for your mount- Amsoil will not sell you these) then you'll still have to wait a longer time to get much out of the bypass filter.
Sure the Amsoil combination mounts do their own flow "biasing" ..but again, if you use a Permacool sandwich you can just buy a Dual Guard (BK-12) and use two bypass filters and keep your full flow where it's at. All flow returns inline and there's no worries about this or that. Plumbing is simplified. If you have a need to remove the unit, for whatever reason, you just unbolt the mount ..pull off your full flow ..loosen one bolt ..replace the full flow after you've removed the sandwich ...done. No redoing the pressure sender ..no new oil cap ..no hole in the pan to plug.
But don't listen to me, I'm lazy ..so I think in 'modular' terms.
Amsoil has a aluminum oil filter cap that is tapped for a return line for diesel trucks.It would be great if the cap fit my application.Joe
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Hard to say, Dually
Call the tech line and see what's up. You might get lucky.
Nebraskan, the one on the left is a Permacool ..the right one is too, probably. I'd expect the O ring to be identical.
Nebraskan, the one on the left is a Permacool ..the right one is too, probably. I'd expect the O ring to be identical.
I'm going to the junk yard to buy an extra oil fill cap for my 1996 Buick Park Avenue. Might cost 2 bucks.. Why don't you just do the same? Go find one at a salvage yard and mess with it. If your project goes haywire, as MINE sometimes do, then you have only fiddled with the extra.
Recently I bought a used transmission pan for my Buick to put in a fluid drain plug on it. Cleaned it all up. Drilled the hole and put in the aftermarket transmission drain plug. Drained the oil out of the Buick and took the "original" pan off. Replaced the filter and put the "NEW" pan up there, and guess what? Oil plug was right where there was another apparatus in there as part of the transmission. So I looked carefully for a new spot, found it, and drilled the new area on the "junkyard pan" and put it up there to check for fit and clearance. No problems! So then I took my original pan and duplicated the same hole location and put it all back together with no hitch. Nice to have had a 'spare' around to self engineer with. LOL
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