Amsoil BMK-17 & Pre-Luber

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I have a Amsoil BMK-17 installed on my Diesel truck I also installed a Pre-Luber. The way it is hook up is the oil from the oil pan enters the Pre-Luber. The output then goes to the Amsoil BMK-17 the oil enters where you can put a oil sampling petcock valve (which I'm not using)This oil enters here and goes right threw to the ouput. Which enters the engine where the old filter used to be mounted. My question is when the oil is in the BMK-17 mount, I know the two filters (full flow & BE-100 by-pass)are also trying to put oil out of them, I was wondering if the oil could backflow into the filers where it suppose to come out by the pressure from the Pre-Luber. This would cause the oil to wash away
the dirt the filter collected already when the Pre-Luber was running.
 
If I understand your setup correctly, you're pumping unfiltered oil from you oilpan to a point that is post-filter. This has several problems: any sediment from your oilpan wil go straight into your engine, and the oil pressure from the preluber will backflush through your full-flow filter. Since the oil is cold when this happens, it is possible for the filter's bypass valve to open up when you first start the engine, and all of the backflushed particulates will end up in your engine.

You want to hook up the preluber at the inlet of the bypass filter, not the petcock access port. If you get a 3-way 8AN male tee fitting (they sell them at most hardware or home improvement stores for gas connectors)this should screw into the body of the BMK-17 unit and give you two fittings to attach your inlet hose and preluber.

Why do I know this? Because I'm installing a very similar setup in my car, but I'm using the BMK-13 dual remote setup. You're going to need to put some teflon tape on the tee fitting into the BMK-17 unit, and come up with a washer to put in between to prevent leakage. I'm going to post pictures of my setup when I get it done.

I'm also installing an interval timer that will shut the prelube pump off. The pump will be activated by turning the ignition switch on prior to engaging the starter.

Just curious: what prelube pump are you using?
 
slalom44: The Pre-luber is a Turbo Plus Pre-Post Lubrication Kit.This is for my GMC 6.6 Duramax Diesel. This pump unit will run when the key is first turn on(but not the starter)for 30 seconds to Pre-lube the engine and Turbo.Then after shutdown of the engine it will run the Pre-Luber pump up to 6 minuts to lube the Turbo & engine I have mind set for 2.5 minutes.
Thanks for the information. I talked to Amsoil Tech Dept before installing this unit and told them about hooking up to where you hook up the oil sampling petcock valve and they said it was OK. I believe what you said about the filter's bypass valve to open up when I first start up the engine, and all the backflushed particulates will end up in my engine. I will look under my truck tomorrow to see how I can change the tubing around so the oil will go into the inlet of the BMK-17. Thanks again for all the information. What Pre-Luber are you using on your car.
patriot.gif
 
I went the cheaper route. I bought a SHURflo Model #2088-343-135 from Northern Tool for $69.99. I called the manufacturer, and confirmed that it has a check valve rated at 200 psi (don't want the oil pressure to get from the pressurized filter back to the oilpan through the pump), and a pressure limit switch that is adjustable.

I've got mine up and running, however I don't have the timer for the preluber hooked up yet, I've got to adjust the pressure limit switch a little higher, and I'm going to change to a more robust drain plug connector (it's being shipped). But otherwise, the system is working great.
 
I don't see how there could be any setiment (sp ) in the bottom of his oil pan...he has a bypass system installed for a reason ...to keep his oil clean ..
cheers.gif
 
Originally posted by Deepsquat:
quote:

I don't see how there could be any setiment (sp ) in the bottom of his oil pan...he has a bypass system installed for a reason ...to keep his oil clean ..

I disagree. Every engine I've seen torn down has had a screen over the oil pickup, and although the oil pickup (which pulls oil to the pump) is just off the bottom of the oilpan, the heaviest and largest sediment would likely not get sucked up by the pickup even if there was no screen.

But the oil drain plug is typically at the lowest place on the oilpan. If there is sediment in the bottom of the oilpan, it has a good chance of making it out the drain plug.

Remember - for the bypass filter to filter the oil, it has to pass through that filter. Any debris from the engine (casting sand, weld spatter, dirt from who-knows-where, and any scored or chipped metal fragments generated by the engine) will fall to the oilpan and either stay there, go out the drain plug, or sucked up by the pickup and pumped through the filter.
 
Talked to Amsoil today, told them the system I have and how it is hooked up. They said with the Amsoil BMK-17 I don't have to worry about sediment in the oil pan, also about the pressure from the Pre-Luber will backflush through the full flow filter, they said not that much, also about the filter's by-pass valve this won't happen about opening up. So I'm going to leave it the way it is hook up now. I also look under my truck to see if the tubing could be changed. It could, but I have a nice clean system now, no sharp bends and if I changed it I would have sharp bends. Also called Pre-Luber today and check with them about my setup, they also said it was OK. Also this is on a 04 diesel which had its regular oil changed 4 times before 7000 miles also the AC filter each time. Then about 7000 miles put in Amsoil synthetic oil which is in now. For a diesel, the oil is so clean I have a hard time reading the dip stick. I have a check valve on the output of the pump and no pressure limit switch, mind has a 45# by-pass around the pump in case the pressure reach's this in the system.
 
slalom44:
Been thinking what you said about the screen on the oil pickup. I have also rebuilt many a engine, when I was younger. I have found chips of metal and a lot of sediment in the engine and the oil pan. In those days I don't remember anyone using a by-pass filter or some people even changing their oil filter's as much. But I have been given it some thought and I think I will install another oil filter between the oil pan outlet and the Pre-Luber inlet. I think this will take care of my problem. I can do this easier then changing the tubing around.
 
Originally posted by GMCDMAX:
quote:

slalom44:
Been thinking what you said about the screen on the oil pickup. I have also rebuilt many a engine, when I was younger. I have found chips of metal and a lot of sediment in the engine and the oil pan. In those days I don't remember anyone using a by-pass filter or some people even changing their oil filter's as much. But I have been given it some thought and I think I will install another oil filter between the oil pan outlet and the Pre-Luber inlet. I think this will take care of my problem. I can do this easier then changing the tubing around.

I think that's a great idea. I may be paranoid over nothing, but you know what I'm talking about.

Here's another suggestion: I'm not sure if the BMK-17 is the same as the BMK-13 setup, but if you remove the plug that holds the spring-loaded valve and install the inlet there, the oil from the prelube pump will be passing through the full flow filter. I know that this can be done on the BMK-13. The spring loaded valve still fits and does its job. I didn't use this port on my system because it happens to be too close to my exhaust header.
 
shalom44:
The BMK-13 and the BMK-17 sound all most identical. Are you saying to take the plug out and install the inlet from the Pre-Luber, that you leave the spring loaded valve in, the oil from the Pre-Luber will go into the full flow filter and out to the engine. I would think the pressure from the plug holding the spring valve in would change with screwing the fitting in, unless you counted the number of turns when backing out the plug and installing the fitting and screwing in the same number. If this would work like you are saying this would eliminate me from installing this other filter before the Pre-Luber. This really sounds good to me. I also wonder if the oil would have any more restriction with the flow. Let me know what your thoughts are on this.
Thanks
 
slalom44:
Sorry for spelling your name wrong above.
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I was just thinking isn't this spring loaded valve for letting in about 10% of the oil from the engine into the By-Pass filter. If the oil from the Pre-Luber is going into this inlet at a reverse flow wouldn't the oil be very restricted almost like a orifice when it comes out going to the engine. Maybe my thoughts are all wrong, I hope.
Thanks Again
 
That spring-loaded valve is designed to allow more oil to flow through the bypass filter by increasing the pressure to the full-flow filter. That plug just holds the spring in place. If you replace it with a fitting, it will still do the same thing.

By tapping into that port, the prelube oil won't be going through the bypass filter, but that's no big deal. In fact, this may be a better setup than I have because you don't have to overcome the differential pressure of the valve to pressurize the system. If you read the thread on Bod's oil filter tests, you'll see the amount of added pressure of that valve.

If you look at the plug used to hold the spring in place, you can see that all you need is a fitting that will hold the spring in the same relative position. This can be done with the Petcock fitting (although it's a pretty small orifice) or you can take an 8AN male fitting, grind the end off and use that.
 
Talked to Amsoil today , I told them about changing the input to the spring loaded valve on BMK-17 for my Pre-Luber. They said that there might be to much turbulence in the oil coming into the BMK-17 from the engine oil pump and if the Pre-Luber was running at the same time (reverse flow). They said he wouldn't advise doing this. This would be OK if the Pre-Luber wasn't running at the same time the engine was, and this is only in the first turn on of the key when the Pre-Luber runs for about 30 seconds if I didn't try to start the engine. Still confused what to do.
 
That's an interesting comment made by the guy at Amsoil. It's possible that this guy is being pretty conservative.

When I crank my engine, my prelube pump kicks off immediately becuse the pressure generated by the engine's oil pump exceeds the preluber's pressure limit setting (I installed an LED next to the Oil Pressure Gauge to tell me when the pump is running). Even if it didn't shut off, the extra flow of both the oil pump and the preluber would likely kick up the oil pressure high enough to significantly reduce (or possibly prevent) flow from the preluber.

And I disagree about there being "reverse flow". The flow would be coming from both ends of the passageway, then merge together to enter the full-flow filter. My pump is rated at 3 GPM but at 40 PSI (the approximate backpressure on the preluber), my pump is rated at 2.05 GPM. Yours probably pumps more oil than mine does, but I would think that it takes more than a few gallons per minute to make the flow turbulent.

If I were you, I'd hook it up, crank the engine and watch the oil pressure gauge. If there was turbulence in the BMK-17, you'd see a decrease in oil pressure from using the prelube pump compared to not using it during startup (turbulence increases resistance resulting in this backpressure, and since your oil pressure sender is located after the filter, it gets less flow, therefore less pressure).
 
What I think I might do before I change the oil and filters the next time is to change the fitting on the BMK-17 and watch the guage like you said. There is a question that I don't understand maybe you know the answer to this. If the oil is pump by the Pre-luber into the port where the spring loaded valve is on the BMK-17 and at the other end of the BMK-17 the oil from the engine oil pump comes in. When the engine isn't running, don't this oil being pump by the Pre-luber go through the full flow filter then out to the engine. Why don't this oil also go back to the engine oil pump and maybe into the oil pan. If this is a straight shot threw the BMK-17, also isn't there a smaller size inside the BMK-17 that would cause a restriction to the flow coming from the Pre-Luber. I hope I didn't confuse you with this question.
Thanks Again
 
Look at Bob's image of the DR setup. This is similar to what I've got:
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In the upper right corner, that plug holds the spring in place. If the oil from the preluber came from there, it would be entering the "inlet" port of the system. The spring loaded valve will prevent the prelube oil from going upstream (to the pump) because it is acting as a check valve. Even if you tapped into the other end of the inlet port (like I did), the engine's oil pump is a "Positive Displacement" pump that doesn't allow a significant amount of oil past it to the oilpan. Since I'm getting around 30 PSI on my pressure gauge (measured after the filter) with just the prelube pump, I know that this setup is allowing me to pressurize the system adequately.

In this image (an older version of Amsoil's DR bypass setup), you can see the two ports: the inlet port (top side) and outlet port (bottom side).
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You can visualize how the oil enters through the spring port from the preluber and enters the full-flow filter.

I hope these pictures and my explanation make sense.
 
slalom44
Thanks for the pictures. My BMK-17 is a little different, but I get what you are saying and it makes more sense now. I'm still going to wait until I changed the oil and filters. I have enough Amsoil oil right now for one oil change.
Thanks for all the information and this site is great, I learned a lot so far, I was a guy who just put oil in and a filter every 3000 miles and thought that was all you had to know about oil & filters.
Thanks Again
 
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